P1000 Unresponsive throttle and erratic idle.

Alaska350

Alaska350

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Hello all. Looking for some advice from the group here. I have a 2021 pioneer 1000 that has ran flawless until recently. Last summer I found a deep hole crossing a river and sunk the back end while trying to crawl up the river bank. It’s snorkeled and the front end didn’t go under at all but the back end up to the bottom of the dash was submerged for about 5 minutes while the engine was running until I got pulled out. No water in the oils and the only victim was my inferno heater that I have since replaced. Fast forward to winter….

It is stored in a heated garage. Something seems to be getting frozen from the 30 min trailer ride from the heated garage to the trail head parking lot. It starts up fine and idles fine. I let it warm all the way up to operating temps. Get in and put it reverse to back off the trailer and the gas pedal is not responsive, the check engine light comes on, and it has a weird idle like it’s running on one cylinder reving up and down. Eventually it settles down and idle goes back to normal with the gas pedal working as it should but the check engine light flashes anytime the rpm goes down around 2k while driving. Above 3k rpm the engine light stays on.

The first time this happened was a month ago when we took it out to do a glacier ride when it was 12 degrees. I loaded it back up and took it to the dealership. By the time I got there the engine light was off and it was acting normal. They had it for a week in similar temps where they parked it outside all day long and started it in the evening to see if they could duplicate the issue before putting it inside but it never did it for them. The store code was throttle position error they said.

They changed the changed all the fluids and I took it home. I have rode it around the house about a dozen times in similar weather without any issues.

Today we took it out for another glacier trip in about 15 degree and after a 30 min trailer ride to the parking lot it does the same thing. After 15 minutes of acting up the idle and the gas pedal return to normal but with engine light flashes anytime the rpm drops close to 2k. The engine light stays on close to 3k rpm and above. All the way to the glacier it does this. After a hour camp fire and lunch we head back to the truck. All the way back no engine light, no weird stuff.

30 minute trailer ride home and it does it again when I go to unload it but for a bit less this time. What couple be causing this??
 
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Hello_Darkness

Hello_Darkness

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Without reading th codes at the time of fault, it would difficult to pinpoint the issue.

With the idle surging issue. It almost sounds like a IACV issue or TPS issue.

But the fact the throttle pedal doesn't affect engine speed, makes me think it's also mechanical, as even if the sensors are all dead, the enigne should rev with throttle input or die if fuel can't adjust to an open throttle.

When you submerged the unit, did you verify the snorkel under the floorboard isn't full of water? I'm wondering if it's freezing and causing an air block. But I would think you would've ingested that water by now.

Also have you checked the fuel for water?
 
Alaska350

Alaska350

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Did the PCM / PCU get submerged under water.
Grounds clean and tight?
Everything from the bottom of the bed to the bottom of the dash was under water for 5 mins. The front end was almost all the way out. I have ran it around the house over a dozen times for more than 15 min each in sub freezing temps and no issues. If it were a ground I think it would act up the whole time right?
 
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Alaska350

Alaska350

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Without reading th codes at the time of fault, it would difficult to pinpoint the issue.

With the idle surging issue. It almost sounds like a IACV issue or TPS issue.

But the fact the throttle pedal doesn't affect engine speed, makes me think it's also mechanical, as even if the sensors are all dead, the enigne should rev with throttle input or die if fuel can't adjust to an open throttle.

When you submerged the unit, did you verify the snorkel under the floorboard isn't full of water? I'm wondering if it's freezing and causing an air block. But I would think you would've ingested that water by now.

Also have you checked the fuel for water?
I had the dealership run a borescope down the snorkel intake to ensure it was dry. As far as water in the tank….if there was water in it it would run s***ty all the time from my understanding and not just when super cold after a trailer ride. It legit idles/runs perfect before and after the issue settles down so I think my fuel is good. I’ve since ran almost a full tank through the machine since last summer.
 
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Alaska350

Alaska350

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Says you keep it in a heated garage but don't know at what temp? I would blast it with heat to thoroughly dry it out and run it hard for a bit.
I keep the garage around 55 degrees as both the wife and I park our cars in there as well. After I got it back from the dealer not being able to duplicate it I ran it hard over a dozen times around the neighborhood burning over a half a tank of gas to see if it would do it again and nadda. One 30 min trailer ride to the trailhead in 15 degree temps and it does it again. I’m lost. The majority of the time I use this thing in Alaska is in winter since our summers are so short and I’m already over this issue. My buddy is taking this opportunity pushing a canam defender with a full heated and ac cab HARD.
 
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906UP

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My buddy is taking this opportunity pushing a canam defender with a full heated and ac cab HARD.
He isn't wrong, the CA Defender set up is nice, especially for colder climates vs the P1K3/5 with it's cab with more holes than Swiss cheese!

As for your issue, without more info.....code #s, etc.... anything else is a guess, so with that I'm guessing you still have moisture somewhere like inside a sensor (TPS, IACV) or have water inside the airbox.
 
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Alaska350

Alaska350

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He isn't wrong, the CA Defender set up is nice, especially for colder climates vs the P1K3/5 with it's cab with more holes than Swiss cheese!

As for your issue, without more info.....code #s, etc.... anything else is a guess, so with that I'm guessing you still have moisture somewhere like inside a sensor (TPS, IACV) or have water inside the airbox.
When the dealer opens tues I will call and ask what the code number was exactly. All they told me when they cleared it the first time was throttle position sensor error. I had them run a boroscope down the snorkel to see is any water was in it but the said it was bone dry.
 
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906UP

906UP

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When the dealer opens tues I will call and ask what the code number was exactly. All they told me when they cleared it the first time was throttle position sensor error. I had them run a boroscope down the snorkel to see is any water was in it but the said it was bone dry.
Well there's a little more info....maybe you mentioned it earlier and I missed it. Pull the TPS connector and check for water or corrosion. As for the borescope, that doesn't tell you much. You need to open the airbox and check for water or signs of previous moisture. Start with the basics.
 
Alaska350

Alaska350

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Well there's a little more info....maybe you mentioned it earlier and I missed it. Pull the TPS connector and check for water or corrosion. As for the borescope, that doesn't tell you much. You need to open the airbox and check for water or signs of previous moisture. Start with the basics.
When I start messing with this next week I plan on checking every single connector I can see and coating in dielectric grease before plugging back in.
 
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Scoop

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Saw the title and thought it would be a post about Joe Biden.
 
RacinJasonWV

RacinJasonWV

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When I start messing with this next week I plan on checking every single connector I can see and coating in dielectric grease before plugging back in.
Be a little cautious with the dielectric grease. I’ve seen a guy on another forum cause issues by using too much on the connectors of his truck. The grease is non-conductive so being down in the pins created problems. He had to do a thorough cleaning and use a conductive grease (lightly) to repair.
Most people don’t seem to have any issues like this, but wanted to offer you the warning beforehand.

I’m no expert on the SXS but have been trying to think of things that may help just based on basic troubleshooting. All I can come up with are issues with TPS or IACV like others have mentioned. I assume the Pioneer also has a MAF sensor? If so, that may be another place to look.

Maybe water inside a connector is freezing over to cause open circuit, then allowing connection once thawed. But being inside a sealed connector could be preventing the moisture from dissipating this repeating the cycle.
 

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