P1000m5 What did you add to/do with your Pioneer 1000 5 today?

[Rayger143]

Treated myself to an early Christmas present. 15” system 3 SB7 beadlocks with 30x10 xtr 370 tires. Rub just a touch at full lock with atlas pro A-Arms (no steering stop). Ordered RB3 wide track kit, hoping that will fix the rub before I break down and add the steering stops.

View attachment 410194 View attachment 410195

Lookin good. You will be good after installing spacers.

 

[Admin]

 

[ob1jeeper]

Removed the struts I had used to tilt the lower portion of the full windscreen out for fresh air during the warmer months. Starting to get to the point I'll be adding the door uppers in the next few weeks...

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

 

[P1K5Dave]

Ordered RB3 wide track kit, hoping that will fix the rub before I break down and add the steering stops.

Oddly enough, spacers may make rubbing worse depending on your setup.

 

[Jankyeye]

Lookin good. You will be good after installing spacers.

Oddly enough, spacers may make rubbing worse depending on your setup.

I'll let you know how it works out.

 

[Jankyeye]

@Rayger143 @P1K5Dave 1” spacers in the front solved the rubbing on the A arms, still just a touch of rub on the inner fender panels.

 

[NorthernJoe]

@Rayger143 @P1K5Dave 1” spacers in the front solved the rubbing on the A arms, still just a touch of rub on the inner fender panels.

View attachment 410775 View attachment 410776 View attachment 410777 View attachment 410778

You could do a DYI This took me a couple hours

First I made up the metal cover plate





Trace out where the plate is to go



Then you cut out the bulk of the plastic. make sure to leave tabs to rivet the plate to



attach the plate with rivets, you can see at the bottom of the picture how much space you gain




Take a heat gun and fold up the edges



reinstall the inner fender, cut the outside vertical edge and cut horizontally along the "ridge"



Take the heat gun and gently heat the top part and press it back against the back of the plate. then heat and push the bottom until it touched the top part. take your multi tool and gently cut through the top and bottom at the same time. remove the scrap and heat the top and bottom at the same time. when it looks wet its ready to shape



push the warm/soft top and bottom until it makes contact with the new plate installed in the foot well and brace until it cools
You can cut thin slivers and weld them in the seam

there you just gained over an inch of clearance where it counts!

 

[Jankyeye]

You could do a DYI This took me a couple hours

First I made up the metal cover plate

View attachment 410800



Trace out where the plate is to go
View attachment 410801


Then you cut out the bulk of the plastic. make sure to leave tabs to rivet the plate to
View attachment 410802


attach the plate with rivets, you can see at the bottom of the picture how much space toy gain
View attachment 410803



Take a heat gun and fold up the edges
View attachment 410804


reinstall the inner fender, cut the outside vertical edge and cut horizontally along the "ridge"
View attachment 410805


Take the heat gun and gently heat the top part and press it back against the back of the plate. then heat and push the bottom until it touched the top part. take your multi tool and gently cut through the top and bottom at the same time. remove the scrap and heat the top and bottom at the same time. when it looks wet its ready to shape
View attachment 410806


push the warm/soft top and bottom until it makes contact with the new plate installed in the foot well and brace until it cools
You can cut thin slivers and weld them in the seam
View attachment 410807
there you just gained over an inch of clearance where it counts!

Thanks, I’ll probably play with the preload a little first and take it out for a ride. If it still rubs I may try this.

 

[Rayger143]

Thanks, I’ll probably play with the preload a little first and take it out for a ride. If it still rubs I may try this.

Mine rubs very little but only while turned and on shock soft setting on rougher trails. Hasn’t rubbed on medium.

 

[TripleB]

Thanks, I’ll probably play with the preload a little first and take it out for a ride. If it still rubs I may try this.

Its gonna rub hard on the trails at full suspension compression while turning.

 

[Jankyeye]

50 miles on the Ocala Centennial trail today. Front only rubbed at full lock, rear rubbed on a mud buster bolt at full compression. Had to run the fox shocks at level 3 to stop it at any speed.

Managed to loose a bolt from the rough country bed extender and broke a SATV windshield strut.

 

[chucksmith0706]

50 miles on the Ocala Centennial trail today. Front only rubbed at full lock, rear rubbed on a mud buster bolt at full compression. Had to run the fox shocks at level 3 to stop it at any speed.

Managed to loose a bolt from the rough country bed extender and broke a SATV windshield strut.

View attachment 411504

I like them wheels and tires. Good looking bike and setup.


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[ob1jeeper]

You could do a DYI This took me a couple hours

First I made up the metal cover plate

View attachment 410800



Trace out where the plate is to go
View attachment 410801


Then you cut out the bulk of the plastic. make sure to leave tabs to rivet the plate to
View attachment 410802


attach the plate with rivets, you can see at the bottom of the picture how much space you gain
View attachment 410803



Take a heat gun and fold up the edges
View attachment 410804


reinstall the inner fender, cut the outside vertical edge and cut horizontally along the "ridge"
View attachment 410805


Take the heat gun and gently heat the top part and press it back against the back of the plate. then heat and push the bottom until it touched the top part. take your multi tool and gently cut through the top and bottom at the same time. remove the scrap and heat the top and bottom at the same time. when it looks wet its ready to shape
View attachment 410806


push the warm/soft top and bottom until it makes contact with the new plate installed in the foot well and brace until it cools
You can cut thin slivers and weld them in the seam
View attachment 410807
there you just gained over an inch of clearance where it counts!

Did you try heating and pushing it back before cutting? Just a thought that it may be less cutting and pasting of pieces to get the same end result of clearance...

 

[NorthernJoe]

Did you try heating and pushing it back before cutting? Just a thought that it may be less cutting and pasting of pieces to get the same end result of clearance...

I did do some experimenting before I went this route You would have ended up with a lot of extra material inside the cab and it would have looked messy (in my opinion)

 

[ob1jeeper]

I did do some experimenting before I went this route You would have ended up with a lot of extra material inside the cab and it would have looked messy (in my opinion)

Cool beans. Was mostly curious whether you could have gotten sufficient clearance without material removal... But it seems you had already tried that.

 

[StewB]

Replaced the original battery in my 2021 P1K5.
It was on sale for $79.

Interesting point: the instructions say not to leave this battery on a tender. You can use it to top up if the vehicle's been idle for several weeks, but it says not to leave it on all the time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W4RXZCP?tag=sxsweb24-20

PS: My dual battery is a MightyMax and it's still working. This one had a higher CCA rating of 350.

 

[ob1jeeper]

Replaced the original battery in my 2021 P1K5.
It was on sale for $79.

Interesting point: the instructions say not to leave this battery on a tender. You can use it to top up if the vehicle's been idle for several weeks, but it says not to leave it on all the time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W4RXZCP?tag=sxsweb24-20

PS: My dual battery is a MightyMax and it's still working. This one had a higher CCA rating of 350.

Many tenders don't have the ability to sense when the battery is fully topped, and continued charging ,even if a trickle, can damage a battery. Even when using trickle chargers, I put them on a timer, to run not more than 2-3 hours per day in colder weather (less than 40-ish), and 1/2 that if temps are over 50 deg-F., and if over 65-70, I don't use one at all.

 

[P1K5Dave]

Last ride before putting her away for the Winter. Now if we can just get some real snow, time for the next toy...

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Many tenders don't have the ability to sense when the battery is fully topped, and continued charging ,even if a trickle, can damage a battery. Even when using trickle chargers, I put them on a timer, to run not more than 2-3 hours per day in colder weather (less than 40-ish), and 1/2 that if temps are over 50 deg-F., and if over 65-70, I don't use one at all.

I use Battery Tender Jr's on all my powersport batteries, and leave them on year round.
Easily get 4 to 5 years out of them.

Just bought this NOCO 5 amp to maintain the dual batteries on my 98 5.9 Cummins.
Charges fast, maintains and switchable to all types of batteries, including 6v.
Made a SAE ring terminal wiring harness to connect up.
Bought an adapter from NOCO to SAE for versatility.
Couldn't wait for Santa...

Have a high amp, NOCO jump box for diesels, too.

NOCO products come professionally packaged, 3 - 5 year warranty, great quality.
American company and engineering, made in Vietnam.

 

[chucksmith0706]

Merry Christmas to me…. New shoes Friday.


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