I run mobile one in my cars and trucks. I asked my dealer about it for the Pioneer. He suggested that I go with the Honda oil for at least the first two oil changes while getting her broke in. Seemed like a good idea so that is my plan.
snuffnwhisky
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It has to be JASO rated for a wet clutch. Most automotive oils are not rated for that.
drfubar
TheDonFather
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DG Rider
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No. No one has discussed this.
Just kidding...
Religion. Politics. Oil.
More animosity has been started by discussions of these 3 than everything else put together.
If by mobil one you mean the motorcycle version, then yes, you can use it. ANYTHING that meets the specs laid out in the owners manual for viscosity and certification (IE JASO MAsomething) is fine. You DO NOT have to use Honda oil because there is nothing special about it, though it will certainly do the job quite well. There are many, many oils you can run just fine.
For the record, in my departed 700, i used:
Factory fill Honda
Honda HP4S
Mobil 1 motorcycle
Amsoil powersports 0-40
Rotella T6
The only real difference i could tell between any of them was during warm up, when the synthetics (all the ones i listed but the factory fill ) greatly shortened the time before the machine could be driven before slippage (the 700 is notorious for needing good warm up or the tranny slips in cold weather) and smoother shifts. Maybe a bit less engine noise as well. The T6 was much cheaper...and this tends to upset some people.
J
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Deluxe700
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Soooo.. the mechanic at my dealer suggested running conventional Honda oil instead of the synthetic. At least for the first couple oil changes. He claimed that the conventional had more detergents and would do a better job of flushing out the metal particles in a fresh motor. I can’t say that I bought into that.. but it was under warranty so I didn't want to give them any ammo if I had issues.
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It's a Honda you could put water in it and it would run longer than most. Whatever factory specs are I would just meet those requirements then shop different brands.
snuffnwhisky
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Synthetic is usually a big no no for a new engine unless it's break in oil. Rings might not seat and glaze the cylinders. The more you baby it when new, the longer you need to wait before swapping to a synthetic.
Deluxe700
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When I first got the machine... I ran the oil that came in it for a little while...Then i changed oil and filter and went back with conventional oil. Then at next oil change I switched to Full Synthetic. The full synthetic seems to do a little better for the transmission and torque converter, you can really notice it when it is cold outside. I have had no problems and plan to continue with the Full synthetic Honda oil.
Oil preference is just what each of us think is the best...I think the machine would do fine on just about any oil, with very little difference in performance or reliability. Changing the oil and filter on a regular basis is the most important factor..
If you change oil at the recommended intervals or before there is very little benefit regardless of brand and type. There are actually very few manufacturers of base oils, regular or synthetic so many base oils are the same from brand to brand. The difference is the additive package even their most makers purchase those as well. Now if running a 10,000 rpm motorcycle or jet ski engine you may notice a difference if you took the engine apart near end of life but for 99% of us if changing oil at or before recommended intervals you will never notice a difference. The company I used to work for owned Valvoline and we had a testing lab and ran different products in fleet vehicles and there was little to no difference except for profit per quart.
Shell, owns Shell, Quaker State, Pennzoil and Jiffy lube brands, Amsoil does not manufacture any base oil they purchase and package.
Shell, owns Shell, Quaker State, Pennzoil and Jiffy lube brands, Amsoil does not manufacture any base oil they purchase and package.
I changed over to Amsoil on the 2nd oil change. I use Amsoil in any engine I plan on keeping for very long. My machine runs noticeably better on Amsoil and maybe even a little cooler.
I used to own an 89 Baja 25ft speedboat. 454 big block. 375hp. Big blocks are notorious for burning oil. I switched to mobile one to see if that helps and it did. I was burning a quart around 25 hours,
Mobile one lengthened that to 40 or 50 hours depending on how hard I ran her. Plus the running temp dropped 8 degrees. Less friction = less heat. The boat was 15 years old when I did the switch, so I was concerned that some of the synthetic oil would find it's way out through the gaskets. It did not. So it was all good. I ran the boat till 2014 when I upgraded to a newer boat. Made me a believer in synthetic.
So I run synthetic in all my cars and trucks. I also extend the oll change interval and use Blackstone labs to test the used oil to see how many miles are left on the oil along with a detailed breakdown of what all is in the oil. Very handy for engine diagnostics and forecasting problems.
Mobile one lengthened that to 40 or 50 hours depending on how hard I ran her. Plus the running temp dropped 8 degrees. Less friction = less heat. The boat was 15 years old when I did the switch, so I was concerned that some of the synthetic oil would find it's way out through the gaskets. It did not. So it was all good. I ran the boat till 2014 when I upgraded to a newer boat. Made me a believer in synthetic.
So I run synthetic in all my cars and trucks. I also extend the oll change interval and use Blackstone labs to test the used oil to see how many miles are left on the oil along with a detailed breakdown of what all is in the oil. Very handy for engine diagnostics and forecasting problems.
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