P1000 Wiring Warn wireless remote to Warn/Honda winch

[GGreen]

Got the Warn wireless remote to add to my 4500# Warn winch, the Honda specific/Honda marketed one.

"Fits all Warn winches."

The wiring includes 2 green wires and 2 black wires. One green and one black are meant to plug into the "handlebar mounted switch", which of course, I don't have, so I presume they should go to the wiring from the glovebox mounted plug for the handheld remote - except that's already plugged into the 12v accessory wiring, per the Winch Install kit harness.

The other black and green are meant to go to the solenoid which, of course, has blade lugs not posts, as pictured, so the pigtail adaptors included don't work. No problem, that I can fix.

My question is: What do I do with the black and green wires meant to wire to the handheld remote harness? Are they needed? Do I splice them in since I can’t plug them in? Or could they go to the solenoid as well, as all four wires seem to share continuity according to my meter?

My best guess is I can skip them. The handheld controller is wired direct to the solenoid, so that will continue to work. I think I can just adapt the black and green intended for the solenoid, or tap them into the black and green that already go to the solenoid.

If that's not clear, trust me, neither am I. Wiring nearly always confuses me. Thanks for any help!

 

[Admin]

 

[Neohio]

Shouldn't be too hard.
Red to ignition 12v. There is an acc wire in fuse box you can tap into.
looks like one ground, easy enough.
Black and green (?) to solenoid, others for the switch can be taped up and not used.
Cut bullets off and use piggbyback style spade connectors.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Insul...als-Connectors/dp/B01ECFCHP4/?tag=sxsweb24-20
Maybe fully insulated and correct for your wire gauge used.

 

[GGreen]

Thanks! That was the answer I was hoping for. I'll give that a shot!

 

[Neohio]

The wiring to the handlebar switch shouldn't matter.
If you use the piggyback stuff, you can use either your wireless or handheld. and/or handlebar.

 

[Cuoutdoors]

Shouldn't be too hard.
Red to ignition 12v. There is an acc wire in fuse box you can tap into.
looks like one ground, easy enough.
Black and green (?) to solenoid, others for the switch can be taped up and not used.
Cut bullets off and use piggbyback style spade connectors.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Insul...als-Connectors/dp/B01ECFCHP4/?tag=sxsweb24-20
Maybe fully insulated and correct for your wire gauge used.

Correct. The black and green are matching sets. One set for hard wired control and one set for the wireless set up. Tape up the set you dont need and put new ends on the ones you use. I love the wireless warn remote. Best thing since sliced bread.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[GGreen]

The wiring to the handlebar switch shouldn't matter.
If you use the piggyback stuff, you can use either your wireless or handheld. and/or handlebar.

I believe you're correct. Thanks!

 

[GGreen]

Correct. The black and green are matching sets. One set for hard wired control and one set for the wireless set up. Tape up the set you dont need and put new ends on the ones you use. I love the wireless warn remote. Best thing since sliced bread.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Thanks! Can’t wait to try it out!

 

[GGreen]

Wired it up - didn't work. A few minutes of head scratching and voltage testing before I checked the manual. Gotta pair the remote. Oops. Works now!

So one more question. I've got the wireless controller temporarily wired to my auxillary fuse block, versus a switched power source. But is this thing really sucking up current if the machine is off? I suppose it could be 'searching' for a signal from the controller if it has power. Is that what's going on? (If it is, I'm simply going to wire it up to a rocker on the dash, versus pulling the fuse block. I don't like wire taps, and if I had a problem later, I don't want to have to pull the fuse block to get at it.)

 

[Cuoutdoors]

Wired it up - didn't work. A few minutes of head scratching and voltage testing before I checked the manual. Gotta pair the remote. Oops. Works now!

So one more question. I've got the wireless controller temporarily wired to my auxillary fuse block, versus a switched power source. But is this thing really sucking up current if the machine is off? I suppose it could be 'searching' for a signal from the controller if it has power. Is that what's going on? (If it is, I'm simply going to wire it up to a rocker on the dash, versus pulling the fuse block. I don't like wire taps, and if I had a problem later, I don't want to have to pull the fuse block to get at it.)

The best thing to do would be to have a 50 amp solenoid that powers up the fuse block. Have the solenoid operated by a switch on the dash or ignition wire.

But the way it sets I dont think the controller will cause any issues.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[Neohio]

Wired it up - didn't work. A few minutes of head scratching and voltage testing before I checked the manual. Gotta pair the remote. Oops. Works now!

So one more question. I've got the wireless controller temporarily wired to my auxillary fuse block, versus a switched power source. But is this thing really sucking up current if the machine is off? I suppose it could be 'searching' for a signal from the controller if it has power. Is that what's going on? (If it is, I'm simply going to wire it up to a rocker on the dash, versus pulling the fuse block. I don't like wire taps, and if I had a problem later, I don't want to have to pull the fuse block to get at it.)

Knowing what we know about a 1000 and using the winch.
I would suggest having it wired so the ignition has to be on for it to work, preferably running if possible. You can use the same tap that was used already for the controller in the glovebox.

 

[Spoonbill]

Thanks for this discussion. ANyone have tips on where to mount the receiver?? Warn makes great products but fall far short on a generic model that will fit anything. My model # 90288 appears to be designed for installation on the handle bars of an ATV.