P700 Yet another lightbar/rear lights question

K

killerv

Member
Nov 28, 2018
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Central Ga
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  1. 700-4
Yeah, I know, its been asked a hundred times but its been done a bunch of different ways and I just want to make sure I'm thinking straight...so if you have time to respond that would be awesome.

Definitely want to add rear lights for backing up, and I guess might as well add a small light bar up front. From what I'm understanding if I don't go to big on the lights, I can use the front subharness for power? This would keep me from having to run cables to the battery and possibly not even having to use a relay. If I did use a relay, it would just go to the subharness for power correct? I have installed a set of PIAAs once years ago on my truck using their factory wiring harness...but I guess the honda subharness is confusing me a tad. Let say I get a bar with its factory harness/relay/switch. Instead of taking that harness back to the battery I can simply tie it in to the honda subharness? I'm thinking 12in maybe 24in bar at most....just a simple upgrade from the factory lights.

Would I use the rear subharness to power a couple small cube lights for backup the same way? Only wire I'd be running up front would be for the switch assuming I mounted it with the rest.

Now all that being said...thinking long term and winch possibly, just run a couple cables from the battery to a bus and fuse box under the hood just go that route? Wouldn't that negate the front factory subharness. I sort of like the idea of it working off the key.

Any advise/help would be appreciated. Don't laught, I'm a stickler for things be clean and tidy...looking nice if at all possibly.

Thanks, Matt.
 
BeerMonkey

BeerMonkey

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Mar 29, 2017
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if it were me i would run the large cables from the battery up front to a bus bar. that way it will be there if you need it in the future. if you like the Key on power idea. use a stinger relay that is triggered by key on power. that way when you turn the key off the power to the bar is off.
 
K

killerv

Member
Nov 28, 2018
39
57
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Central Ga
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  1. 700-4
Thanks

So what if I just went ahead and got the winch and use the long battery cables from the winch kit to run from the battery to the bus bar under the hood? Then I would just need buy/make two short runs from the winch relay to the bus bar correct? Most winch kits already include a breaker for the battery run so that would be there also.

To keep it real simple, if everything already has an inline fuse...I could basically just mount to battery terminals under the hood and run everything to them instead of a fusebox bus combo.

As far as using the subharness for key on power...I'd just run the power wire for each switch to the subharness instead of the relay that comes with each accessory?

Am i making any sense?
 
BeerMonkey

BeerMonkey

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Mar 29, 2017
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Mid TN
yea, the bus bar just makes trouble shooting lots easier. you arent tracking down inline fuses everywhere.
 
BeerMonkey

BeerMonkey

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Mar 29, 2017
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blue sea busbars have a ton of options. i recommend getting one that has negative terminals also. i made the mistake of not getting them now i have grounds everywhere
 
K

killerv

Member
Nov 28, 2018
39
57
18
Central Ga
Ownership

  1. 700-4
I'm seeing folks using solenoids...that is not necessary with a blue sea with the bus and fuse block combo correct? Those battery cables going to blue sea provide the power regardless...not needing a solenoid to turn the fuse block on correct? As long as I tie my relays into the sub harness that works off the switch draining power shouldnt be much of an issue will it?

I imagine the winch won't go to the fuse block, just tie into where I tie the battery cables to the big posts on each end of fuse block. Will doing it like that affect the accessories that will be using the fuse block? Of course the breaker will be mounted near or at the battery.
 
70Bones

70Bones

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Nov 19, 2017
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Just so you know, the sub harness connectors are protected by a 15 amp fuse for all 4 wires total. 15 amps x 12 volts = 180 watts total. I wouldn't go over 150 watts total, because I like a safety factor. Now, as long as your total wattage of lights is less than 150, you can use the Honda sub harness to power them. Most of those cube lights are 18 watts, light bars can be low or high wattage, you have to check before hooking them to the sub harness.

If you get a big high wattage light bar, you'll have to power it from the battery, the best way is via fuse block, as you mentioned, and add a relay that gets its power from the sub harness, so it can't be on when the key is off.

If you run ONE #6 copper wire from the battery positive to the buss/fuse block, you can use it to power your future winch also. No need to run a ground back to the battery, just ground everything to the frame/metal on the machine.

I hope I've answered your questions....
 
K

killerv

Member
Nov 28, 2018
39
57
18
Central Ga
Ownership

  1. 700-4
I appreciate the responses

I figured if I went ahead and got the winch kit....I could use the battery cables (i believe superwinch uses 6ga)and breaker from the kit to run to a bus/fuseblock....and then all I would need extra are short runs from the winch contactor to the bus correct?

I don't want a big light bar on it, just a smaller one that sits in the front guard in front of the Honda badge maybe. Just anything better than the factory lights.

I'm thinking now to use the front subnarness strickly to power the switches with the key on option. That will work won't it? I really don't want to take the chance of me or my kids bumping a switch and draining the battery. If there is a small accessory that will run off it easily...great... but if not everything just go back to the fuseblock.
 
Brandonolsonhouston

Brandonolsonhouston

New Member
Feb 9, 2019
8
25
3
Houston MN
Ownership

  1. 700-4
Yeah, I know, its been asked a hundred times but its been done a bunch of different ways and I just want to make sure I'm thinking straight...so if you have time to respond that would be awesome.

Definitely want to add rear lights for backing up, and I guess might as well add a small light bar up front. From what I'm understanding if I don't go to big on the lights, I can use the front subharness for power? This would keep me from having to run cables to the battery and possibly not even having to use a relay. If I did use a relay, it would just go to the subharness for power correct? I have installed a set of PIAAs once years ago on my truck using their factory wiring harness...but I guess the honda subharness is confusing me a tad. Let say I get a bar with its factory harness/relay/switch. Instead of taking that harness back to the battery I can simply tie it in to the honda subharness? I'm thinking 12in maybe 24in bar at most....just a simple upgrade from the factory lights.

Would I use the rear subharness to power a couple small cube lights for backup the same way? Only wire I'd be running up front would be for the switch assuming I mounted it with the rest.

Now all that being said...thinking long term and winch possibly, just run a couple cables from the battery to a bus and fuse box under the hood just go that route? Wouldn't that negate the front factory subharness. I sort of like the idea of it working off the key.

Any advise/help would be appreciated. Don't laught, I'm a stickler for things be clean and tidy...looking nice if at all possibly.

Thanks, Matt.



I ran the wires up through the roll cage heat shrink the ends and have individual switches for front and rear. Strobes for saftey since I plow with it


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