P1000 1000-5 LE going back to the shop, 2nd time, only 50 miles

[JTW]

I don't plan to pay anything for the pickup or work.....

I sure as s*** wouldn’t pay a dime!

 

[Smitty335]

I sure as s*** wouldn’t pay a dime!

You don't have a dime! HA!

 

[0860silverado]

Iv'e had to do that to my wife, works pretty good!

You are a sick man...and that's why we'd get along just fine!!

 

[0860silverado]

Dealer picked it up from the house today. They said the tech will be at it first thing in the morning.

I could burp it myself but I'm going to let them deal with it. I worked on it all weekend installing winch, roof, lights, stereo so I'll let them handle what should have been done since day 1.

They dropped the ball on set up. The only way I'd let them burp it is if I was standing right on the side of them and witnessed them adding coolant without overfilling it. If they don't understand the principle, they just don't understand it. Don't let 'em bullsnot ya.

 

[Buford]

They dropped the ball on set up. The only way I'd let them burp it is if I was standing right on the side of them and witnessed them adding coolant without overfilling it. If they don't understand the principle, they just don't understand it. Don't let 'em bullsnot ya.

Bleeding the cooling system isn't supposed to be part of set-up. When these machines are "drive-offs", as the dealerships receive them,
all of that is presumed to have been done at the factory. I always just look at the coolant level in the overflow reservoir when I set them up.
Now if a heater is added, then whoever is doing the install should be responsible to make absolutely sure all the air is out of it.
There's a bleeder on the thermostat housing which is kind of a pita to access when the machine is all together, but it does the job.

 

[GPR1500SC]

I'd make sure that all this is documented. Coolant doesn't boil until 260 degrees. Combined with a fragile aluminum head...

I beg to differ on the heads being fragile

This is a Honda there heads are TOUGH of all the bad thing you can say about them the head is not one of them.
When I was have my head gasket issue (no fault of Honda's) I was running it low on water and adding more when the fan started coming on often, the temp sensor is on the top side of the thermostat housing, it is in a bad location when the system is air logged it will not give a correct reading it never got hot enough for the red light to come on but it was running that hot it lightly scarred the cylinder walls and I opted to tare it down and bore it.
So from all that abuse the head and the engine deck where fine there is nothing fragile the 1000 engine it is Honda tough!!!

 

[0860silverado]

I beg to differ on the heads being fragile

This is a Honda there heads are TOUGH of all the bad thing you can say about them the head is not one of them.
When I was have my head gasket issue (no fault of Honda's) I was running it low on water and adding more when the fan started coming on often, the temp sensor is on the top side of the thermostat housing, it is in a bad location when the system is air logged it will not give a correct reading it never got hot enough for the red light to come on but it was running that hot it lightly scarred the cylinder walls and I opted to tare it down and bore it.
So from all that abuse the head and the engine deck where fine there is nothing fragile the 1000 engine it is Honda tough!!!

Glad to know that! Thx!

 

[0860silverado]

Bleeding the cooling system isn't supposed to be part of set-up. When these machines are "drive-offs", as the dealerships receive them,
all of that is presumed to have been done at the factory. I always just look at the coolant level in the overflow reservoir when I set them up.
Now if a heater is added, then whoever is doing the install should be responsible to make absolutely sure all the air is out of it.
There's a bleeder on the thermostat housing which is kind of a pita to access when the machine is all together, but it does the job.

Well...Honda needs to designate someone, somewhere in the line between manufacturing and handing the keys to the new owner, to go over some type of checklist to make sure these are ready for delivery. No buyer should have to wonder if their brand spanking new $18,000.00 machine has coolant in it.

 

[CumminsPusher]

I beg to differ on the heads being fragile

This is a Honda there heads are TOUGH of all the bad thing you can say about them the head is not one of them.
When I was have my head gasket issue (no fault of Honda's) I was running it low on water and adding more when the fan started coming on often, the temp sensor is on the top side of the thermostat housing, it is in a bad location when the system is air logged it will not give a correct reading it never got hot enough for the red light to come on but it was running that hot it lightly scarred the cylinder walls and I opted to tare it down and bore it.
So from all that abuse the head and the engine deck where fine there is nothing fragile the 1000 engine it is Honda tough!!!

I do think the head is very tough and motor itself will take a damn good heat cycle but one thing I've learned from my experience is the fact if you do have an issue you can only go 20 over which allows for a slight refresh, but being an automotive style engine it doesn't have a jug to simply swap out for a couple hundred bucks like most all other off road vehicles instead it's a 6-7k complete tear down if someone doesn't have the ability themselves. The block itself is a 1500$ replacement and that doesn't touch all the gaskets and bearings you need nor the labor intensive task of disabling a motor/trans combo.
I do believe many of these will make it a very long time after all it's a Honda and manufacturing is on a whole different level, but we can't kid ourselves and believe it'll be cheap and easy to maintain like the previous hondas, this one can get pricey.

 

[HondaTech]

Bleeding the cooling system isn't supposed to be part of set-up. When these machines are "drive-offs", as the dealerships receive them,
all of that is presumed to have been done at the factory. I always just look at the coolant level in the overflow reservoir when I set them up.
Now if a heater is added, then whoever is doing the install should be responsible to make absolutely sure all the air is out of it.
There's a bleeder on the thermostat housing which is kind of a pita to access when the machine is all together, but it does the job.

This is the wrong way to set a unit up. Every unit that leaves out dealership has the radiator cap removed and topped off if needed. I don't know how many Ranchers and Foremans I've setup that have been almost a quart low on coolant.

We've had several P1K that have needed bled after the fact. I'm not saying you should bleed everyone but I always pop the radiator cap to check and top off if needed. I guess you don't check diffs or the sub trans either. I'd have my pink slip in hand if I just "assumed" everything was ok.

I'm not trying to be a dick, for example we a had a P500 that came in with the lower passenger side shock bolt through the lower shock eye with a nut on it. Marked twice for torque and inspection but it was not inside the lower mount. Just sitting on the A-arm.

This isn't counting the missing pre air filters, ecus just dangling in the hole beneath the seat, battery cables just sitting on the terminal, upside down rear rollbar crosstubes, unplugged fan wires, loose coil mount bolts. I could go on and on. Like i said you can't catch everything, but if you take the time to look at the basic stuff you'll find little stupid things pretty easy.

 

[HondaTech]

Well...Honda needs to designate someone, somewhere in the line between manufacturing and handing the keys to the new owner, to go over some type of checklist to make sure these are ready for delivery. No buyer should have to wonder if their brand spanking new $18,000.00 machine has coolant in it.

Thats called a Set-up guy, or atleast a good one anyways.

 

[Johnny787]

The tech called me today. I walked him through the entire (short) life so far of my LE. He said they will look it over from top to bottom and try to see why the problem is occurring. I'll keep y'all updated.

 

[0860silverado]

This is the wrong way to set a unit up. Every unit that leaves out dealership has the radiator cap removed and topped off if needed. I don't know how many Ranchers and Foremans I've setup that have been almost a quart low on coolant.

We've had several P1K that have needed bled after the fact. I'm not saying you should bleed everyone but I always pop the radiator cap to check and top off if needed. I guess you don't check diffs or the sub trans either. I'd have my pink slip in hand if I just "assumed" everything was ok.

I'm not trying to be a dick, for example we a had a P500 that came in with the lower passenger side shock bolt through the lower shock eye with a nut on it. Marked twice for torque and inspection but it was not inside the lower mount. Just sitting on the A-arm.

This isn't counting the missing pre air filters, ecus just dangling in the hole beneath the seat, battery cables just sitting on the terminal, upside down rear rollbar crosstubes, unplugged fan wires, loose coil mount bolts. I could go on and on. Like i said you can't catch everything, but if you take the time to look at the basic stuff you'll find little stupid things pretty easy.

Woooow!!! Thank you sir! I wish I would've bought my P1K from you!

 

[Buford]

This is the wrong way to set a unit up. Every unit that leaves out dealership has the radiator cap removed and topped off if needed. I don't know how many Ranchers and Foremans I've setup that have been almost a quart low on coolant.

We've had several P1K that have needed bled after the fact. I'm not saying you should bleed everyone but I always pop the radiator cap to check and top off if needed. I guess you don't check diffs or the sub trans either. I'd have my pink slip in hand if I just "assumed" everything was ok.

Doesn't make any sense that they fill the overflow, but wouldn't top off the radiator. I guess I'll be checking every one from this point on.
I always check the front and rear diff's and the sub trans. It's rare ever running into a diff on a Honda that is low enough to worry about.
But every single one has low engine oil and sub trans oil.
They only pay me $10/hr. , so I'd actually be happy to get my walking papers, and get a respectable paying job.

 

[HondaTech]

Doesn't make any sense that they fill the overflow, but wouldn't top off the radiator. I guess I'll be checking every one from this point on.
I always check the front and rear diff's and the sub trans. It's rare ever running into a diff on a Honda that is low enough to worry about.
But every single one has low engine oil and sub trans oil.
They only pay me $10/hr. , so I'd actually be happy to get my walking papers, and get a respectable paying job.

I worked as a taxi for $9/he for several years. I did setups at $7.25 when infirst started. This industry sucks for pay, I'm on my way out as we speak.

 

[Plongson]

Good gravy guys! How the hell anyone can even buy gas to drive to work for $7.25/hr is beyond me. I sure feel for ya there.
I wouldn't even get out of bed for that money...

 

[JACKAL]

Good gravy guys! How the hell anyone can even buy gas to drive to work for $7.25/hr is beyond me. I sure feel for ya there.
I wouldn't even get out of bed for that money...

About 30 million do not, they wait for a check in the mail.

 

[Johnny787]

Tech just called. He said they drained the fluid and refilled. Ran for 5 hours yesterday with no problem. Pressure tested the radiator cap and it was below spec. He believes that the cap was allowing air into the system and allowing hot coolant out. They ordered a new cap which will be in next week. He said he will run the tests again once they new cap comes in.

 

[Plongson]

Jez, these dealers don't even have a frigg'n radiator cap?? Pull one off another water cooled rig and run it...like off a Rincon. By the time these guys get off their a$$ and make a move, you'll be riding it to breakfast at the old folks home.

 

[Johnny787]

Jez, these dealers don't even have a frigg'n radiator cap?? Pull one off another water cooled rig and run it...like off a Rincon. By the time these guys get off their a$$ and make a move, you'll be riding it to breakfast at the old folks home.

I thought the same thing. They have a few 1ks on the floor so why not take one off.

One of the questions I have is should I be conpensitated any for the additional hours put on my machine to test it