P1000m5 1000-5 Rear Door Inside Storage Modification

[Remington]

What size nuts?

NoHomo right? 🥳

 

[czajkaej]

Honda changed how the panels mount for 2022. I was still able to add storage and all, just had to adapt a bit.

 

[Topguntrigger]

Honda changed how the panels mount for 2022. I was still able to add storage and all, just had to adapt a bit.
View attachment 368617View attachment 368618

Good video I am actually going through the same thing right now with my 2022 trail the issue is I don’t like how your panel sticks out from the main door. I would like to get it as tight as factory. I’m looking for a flat nut to go on the exterior currently.
If anyone else has any great ideas to fix this issue, please suggest .

 

[bumperm]

I agree, that's sub-optimal using a nut and washer on the outside. As you said, has the color panel sticking out too far. The fix I'd use is install rivet nuts in the door panel. Use a washer only on the inside. They sell rivet nuts with a larger outside flange that still has the threads almost flush with the surface. Then proceed as normal (previously discussed) fitting the color panel.

I also recommend either small O-rings on the ball end shaft to seal on the inside surface of the button to keep dirt out of the button mechanism.


Update: after a year of use. The O-rings work well, but require a bit more force to compress each o-ring to get the button to snap into position. I found that washers made of closed cell foam-rubber sheet work even better. I could not find an on-line source for such washers . . . so made them.

 

[Topguntrigger]

I agree, that's sub-optimal using a nut and washer on the outside. As you said, has the color panel sticking out too far. The fix I'd use is install rivet nuts in the door panel. Use a washer only on the inside. They sell rivet nuts with a larger outside flange that still has the threads almost flush with the surface. Then proceed as normal (previously discussed) fitting the color panel.

I also recommend either small O-rings on the ball end shaft to seal on the inside surface of the button to keep dirt out of the button mechanism.

Good idea thank you

 

[Robobrainiac]

Does anyone drill a drain hole in the bottom of the doors after the mod?

 

[Neohio]

Does anyone drill a drain hole in the bottom of the doors after the mod?

I believe my 16 had holes in the bottom already. Just need to inspect occasionally to clean out debris.

 

[Robobrainiac]

I believe my 16 had holes in the bottom already. Just need to inspect occasionally to clean out debris.

I just took a peek and sure enough my 20 had drain holes already. Thank you,

 

[Yakman]

It's a little crude but after insulating you could use a large waterproof stuff sack. Put it in the hole then fill with ice and drinks. When you're done you can pull ice and water right out the hole.

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Or you could skip the sack and just use the new opening. It has a drain hole at the bottom. I tried it on mine but there was too much engine heat and the ice melted quickly.

 

[Scoop]

I tried it on mine but there was too much engine heat and the ice melted quickly.

Drink faster, lightweight.

 

[Smitty335]

Drink faster, lightweight.

YETI has replacement doors for S x S's.

 

[Remington]

Or you could skip the sack and just use the new opening. It has a drain hole at the bottom. I tried it on mine but there was too much engine heat and the ice melted quickly.

Dude, Dave hasn't been on since 21' I'm not sure if he still has his P1

 

[Sarbuck]

Anyone who did this push pin rear door storage mod...any regrets or issues over time? I'm going to cut this weekend...wanted to check to see if anyone wishes they wouldn't have done this mod and why. Thanks.

 

[bumperm]

I make shims for certain guns, so have electric/hydraulic pin press and all manner of punches I can use to make sealing washers. I've ordered some foam sheet for the washers to go on the ball-end shaft (replacing the O-rings I'm currently using). Problem with the O-rings is adjustment is critical, a bit loose and the dirt can still foul the button release mechanism, too tight and it's difficult to latch. I'll report back when I get the foam washer mod done.

 

[Sarbuck]

I make shims for certain guns, so have electric/hydraulic pin press and all manner of punches I can use to make sealing washers. I've ordered some foam sheet for the washers to go on the ball-end shaft (replacing the O-rings I'm currently using). Problem with the O-rings is adjustment is critical, a bit loose and the dirt can still foul the button release mechanism, too tight and it's difficult to latch. I'll report back when I get the foam washer mod done.

Great. Thanks. I’ll do what you did if it works. No one has replied about regrets doing this mod so I’m on it tomorrow.

 

[bumperm]

Great. Thanks. I’ll do what you did if it works. No one has replied about regrets doing this mod so I’m on it tomorrow.

You're gonna like it. Be sure to read back through this thread as there's a lot of helpful info. I used an oscillating multi-tool to thin the back side of the door covers, at least to the point that the nut on the push button would be fully engaged with the button threads (even at the back). This gets the color panel as close to the door as is reasonably possible. I used a hole saw at the corners of my planned cut out (no sharp corners), then cut between the holes for the opening.

 

[Sarbuck]

Did you loctite all nuts? I see some do, while others say it’s not necessary.

 

[Scoop]

Did you loctite all nuts? I see some do, while others say it’s not necessary.

Loctite is like Frank's Red Hot: I put that s*** on everything!

 

[bumperm]

Did you loctite all nuts? I see some do, while others say it’s not necessary.

No need as far as I can see. I've not experienced any coming loose.

BTW, I just replaced the #2 O-rings I was putting on the ball-end shaft to seal dirt out of the buttons. I bought a sheet of 1/8" EPDM foam sheet and punched out 5/8" OD washers. The foam is softer than the O-rings, of course. Ball ends needed to be turned our 1/2 turn but the buttons are easier to operate and should seal even better.

 

[bumperm]

I made a bunch of foam washers for the ball end catches used for door storage - OD 16mm, ID 5mm and installed them on my sxs. Then did a search to see what similar washers sell for, the thought being to offer them for sale. Then I came upon suitable washers used for mounting the body on RC cars. These should do a better job sealing the push button catches to keep the dirt out of the mechanism. Reasonably priced on Amazon so I won't be offering them for sale.*

Foam Washers

*Note that I have not tried the linked washers, but they should work, though will doubtless require adjusting the length 0f the ball end catch a bit. The ID is 6mm, which will be a bit loose on the shaft (I made mine 5mm). As previously posted, when I removed the rubber O-rings for the foam washers I made, I had to unscrew the ball end by I/2 turn - (Measured this by marking end of ball with felt tip so I could see 1/2 turn).