P1000m5 1000-5 Rear Door Inside Storage Modification

501Pioneer

501Pioneer

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There's no need to drill out the factory threaded inserts for the new pins, they are the same thread but are not deep enough due to a thin layer of plastic on the inside. To install, insert the threaded "ball end" pin in your drill. Run the thread in and the threaded pin will push the plastic out of the way. For the two bottom row, center pins, I cut them shorter to about 3/4 to 7/8" long, this way the extra threaded shaft won't interfere with using the storage opening.

On the color panel, I used a 3/4" hole saw to make the hole for the push button part. Then, as explained in my previous post, I used an oscillating multi-tool with saw blade to remove material on the inside of the color panel to allow the nut to fully engage the button threads - you don't need to do this, but it gets the panel mounted about as close to the door as it was originally.
Ok, you answered my 2nd question. The first 2 top holes, the button wouldn’t go far enough in to get the nut on.
 
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bumperm

bumperm

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Ok, you answered my 2nd question. The first 2 top holes, the button wouldn’t go far enough in to get the nut on.
I didn't use nuts on the inside, the threaded ball end should stay put, running it in with the drill chuck, the threads feel like a nylock. Save the nuts and washers just in case they loosen over time, but in my limited experience, I don't think that's happening.

Edit: Oops, I misread your statement. You were talking about getting the button threads through the color panel. You are correct, shaving material off the inside of the color panel (the black side) corrects this and allows full nut engagement.

I tried a couple of different methods to remove some thickness on the inside. Sanding with a small wheel or grinding, would tend to load up the abrasive due to the heat melting the thermoplastic. But the abrasive I tried was worn some, so a newer disk might have worked okay. The oscillating multi-tool with flush cut blade worked well, easy to control depth when "shaving" a layer off at a time. I inserted button from time-to-time and also measure how proud the threads were with a dial caliper to ensure the nut seating surface would be even. I might be making it sound complicated - it isn't. :)
 
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La-Rincon

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There's no need to drill out the factory threaded inserts for the new pins, they are the same thread but are not deep enough due to a thin layer of plastic on the inside. To install, insert the threaded "ball end" pin in your drill. Run the thread in and the threaded pin will push the plastic out of the way. For the two bottom row, center pins, I cut them shorter to about 3/4 to 7/8" long, this way the extra threaded shaft won't interfere with using the storage opening.

On the color panel, I used a 3/4" hole saw to make the hole for the push button part. Then, as explained in my previous post, I used an oscillating multi-tool with saw blade to remove material on the inside of the color panel to allow the nut to fully engage the button threads - you don't need to do this, but it gets the panel mounted about as close to the door as it was originally.
Do you happen to have a pic of the backside of your panel where you trimmed the material for the button portion?
Thanks in advance.
 
bumperm

bumperm

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Do you happen to have a pic of the backside of your panel where you trimmed the material for the button portion?
Thanks in advance.
Sorry, I didn't take any pictures during the process.

I was concerned, as I had to remove a fair amount of material to get the nuts to tighten up flush so the full thickness of the nut was engaged with the threads (that way the nut wasn't adding to the length of the button portion so the color panel would fit as close to the door as possible). This left the hole in the color panel a little larger than the button threads, but it didn't turn out to be an issue at all - the button still centers up, or adjusts its position just fine in the hole.
 
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La-Rincon

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Sorry, I didn't take any pictures during the process.

I was concerned, as I had to remove a fair amount of material to get the nuts to tighten up flush so the full thickness of the nut was engaged with the threads (that way the nut wasn't adding to the length of the button portion so the color panel would fit as close to the door as possible). This left the hole in the color panel a little larger than the button threads, but it didn't turn out to be an issue at all - the button still centers up, or adjusts its position just fine in the hole.
The hole opening up too large was my concern also. I tried one last night, went well. Thanks for the info.
 
Robobrainiac

Robobrainiac

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The shoulder nuts have loctite on them.

Here is the pieces I bought. I thought these would have less chance of hanging since they are round versus a wing nut.

View attachment 76059

The 16mm length would be better as I had to cut the 20mm length.
Is the M6 the factory thread used for the original bolts?
 
Robobrainiac

Robobrainiac

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The shoulder nuts have loctite on them.

Here is the pieces I bought. I thought these would have less chance of hanging since they are round versus a wing nut.

View attachment 76059

The 16mm length would be better as I had to cut the 20mm length.
Could you possibly include a link? I can only find plastic knobs
 
tjoreo

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Thank you greatly!
Your welcome. When I installed mine I was lucky enough to find a member that had a couple extra when he ordered them so there might be someone with some around. I found when I installed my first panel that I had to bend the stud mount an little to get it to line up with the center of the panel hole where I put the push button. When I installed my second panel, I installed the ball stud and then located where the push button needed to go in the panel. They are not quite centered in the hole but taking your time and installing them in the proper location makes it much easier to get the panel off and on. It really is a great mod and something I'm glad I did. Have a Happy Thanksgiving.
 
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Hondasxs

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Your welcome. When I installed mine I was lucky enough to find a member that had a couple extra when he ordered them so there might be someone with some around. I found when I installed my first panel that I had to bend the stud mount an little to get it to line up with the center of the panel hole where I put the push button. When I installed my second panel, I installed the ball stud and then located where the push button needed to go in the panel. They are not quite centered in the hole but taking your time and installing them in the proper location makes it much easier to get the panel off and on. It really is a great mod and something I'm glad I did. Have a Happy Thanksgiving.
You talking about the push buttons?
I have some I need to get rid of.
I'll hunt them up. Feel like I have a dozen +.


Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
Robobrainiac

Robobrainiac

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After doing some research I think I will go the push pin quick release button style. I think I would slide on a tree and rip the thumb screw off
 
tjoreo

tjoreo

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After doing some research I think I will go the push pin quick release button style. I think I would slide on a tree and rip the thumb screw off
Either way I think you will be happy with the mod. I just went back through the thread and realized you were talking about the thumb screws vs the push buttons. I have had good luck with the push buttons and actually only put the 4 in the corners. I had one that loosened up on the push button side that was tough to get to release. After tightening up the back side of the push button assembly I have not had any trouble since. I started out with smaller cut outs for the opens, but have since enlarged the openings to get items in and out easily. On one side I run tow straps, extra winch line and a jug of the Honda antifreeze. On the other side I run a first aid kit, and some ran coats and pants for the family. Enjoy.
 
Robobrainiac

Robobrainiac

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Either way I think you will be happy with the mod. I just went back through the thread and realized you were talking about the thumb screws vs the push buttons. I have had good luck with the push buttons and actually only put the 4 in the corners. I had one that loosened up on the push button side that was tough to get to release. After tightening up the back side of the push button assembly I have not had any trouble since. I started out with smaller cut outs for the opens, but have since enlarged the openings to get items in and out easily. On one side I run tow straps, extra winch line and a jug of the Honda antifreeze. On the other side I run a first aid kit, and some ran coats and pants for the family. Enjoy.
You are correct! I look forward to getting it together. It will be nice because I will leave the items stored in the unit so that makes less items being taken in and out for rides.
 
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tjoreo

tjoreo

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You are correct! I look forward to getting it together. It will be nice because I will leave the items stored in the unit so that makes less items being taken in and out for rides.
One other storage mod that I stole from my old 700, was the addition of a 30mm ammo can under the seat. It holds my air compressor and other heavier items that wouldn't fit in the door.
 
Robobrainiac

Robobrainiac

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One other storage mod that I stole from my old 700, was the addition of a 30mm ammo can under the seat. It holds my air compressor and other heavier items that wouldn't fit in the door.
I have seen that on the 1000 as well. I put a large deep cell marine battery under my seat. My wife requested the ability to listen to music for hours while working the garden so the large battery was the solution.
 
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tjoreo

tjoreo

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I have seen that on the 1000 as well. I put a large deep cell marine battery under my seat. My wife requested the ability to listen to music for hours while working the garden so the large battery was the solution.
Sounds like the door mod will suit you well than. Happy Thanksgiving and enjoy your rig.
 
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