P1000 1000-5 Rhino 2.0 boot coming off

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cawilkes

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I recently replaced a factory right rear Honda OEM cv axle with a Rhino 2.0. After installation I took it for a quick spin and when I got back home I noticed the inner boot had come from under the band and was leaking grease. I contacted SATV and they quickly sent me a replacement out. I changed that one out and once again after about 10 mins of 50mph I stopped to look at the boot and it seemed almost inflated. The axle was very hot to the touch. I checked to see how hot the other side that still had the factory axle on it was and it was nearly as hot although not inflated looking. Once I made it back home I noticed the boot had again slipped from under the band and grease slung all under my buggy. SATV is now saying that it’s potentially something going on with my rear differential and not their CV axles. However, the Honda OEM continues to hold up on the other side. My question is, how hot do the axles normally get? Is it likely that something is in fact going on in the rear differential causing it too get hotter than it normally would? I checked fluid and everything looks good. Anyone ever came across this before?

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NTCPrezJB

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Interesting issue. Watching to see if anyone has any ideas. Any kind of bracket lift on your machine or something that could be putting extra stress or bind in the CV’s
 
Smitty335

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I recently replaced a factory right rear Honda OEM cv axle with a Rhino 2.0. After installation I took it for a quick spin and when I got back home I noticed the inner boot had come from under the band and was leaking grease. I contacted SATV and they quickly sent me a replacement out. I changed that one out and once again after about 10 mins of 50mph I stopped to look at the boot and it seemed almost inflated. The axle was very hot to the touch. I checked to see how hot the other side that still had the factory axle on it was and it was nearly as hot although not inflated looking. Once I made it back home I noticed the boot had again slipped from under the band and grease slung all under my buggy. SATV is now saying that it’s potentially something going on with my rear differential and not their CV axles. However, the Honda OEM continues to hold up on the other side. My question is, how hot do the axles normally get? Is it likely that something is in fact going on in the rear differential causing it too get hotter than it normally would? I checked fluid and everything looks good. Anyone ever came across this before?

View attachment 344371
By any chance you have shocks with adjustable spring preload rings? If you do you may have them preloaded too much and putting too much angle on the axels, that will make them run hot every time. A friend of ours got new shocks and did that trying to gain ground clearance, he backed them down to where he had 1.5 inches of spring sag, issue went away.
 
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C

cawilkes

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2.5” lift with 28” tires. Nothing crazy by any means. The original reason for replacing was a punctured Honda boot. Something a little bigger than a pin hole. I could understand if this had been an ongoing issue and I was having similar issues with the factory. I figured the simplicity of just replacing with a Rhino would be the route to go and possibly end up replacing all 4 with rhinos down the road.
 
Smitty335

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2.5” lift with 28” tires. Nothing crazy by any means. The original reason for replacing was a punctured Honda boot. Something a little bigger than a pin hole. I could understand if this had been an ongoing issue and I was having similar issues with the factory. I figured the simplicity of just replacing with a Rhino would be the route to go and possibly end up replacing all 4 with rhinos down the road.
You didn't answer the question about your shocks? I'm personally not a fan of a lift kit, think that's where your issue is. Lift kits throw alinement camber off.
 
TripleB

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I had the same thing happen to me with a borrowed rig. Put in a brand new rhino 2.0, right rear axle, drove 12 miles of blacktop and the boot was off. I took the axle out and added grease and put a new band on. Drove 7 miles of gravel and it was smoking hot. The left side wasn't near as hot. Boot came off a few miles later. I water cooled it the rest of the day. Put a oem back in when I got home. Rode it 2 more days with no heat issues. Has to be a bad run on that axle. @Plumber32 was suppose to get that axle covered under warranty. I have 2.0's in my rig but they're a year old and I've not had any issues with them.

VideoCapture 20220708 072542
 
Plumber32

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Weird. All axles can get pretty hot on long runs at steeper axles angles from a lift...but the boot shouldn't have come off. Could have just been a dud of a clamp that allowed it to pop off. I've got no problem get you another boot kit for that.
It started clicking really bad, I don't think it's worth going through the mess of putting a boot on for it to blow in no time. I filled out the warranty slip online but haven't heard back. Or very possible it didn't go through on my end.
 
TripleB

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It started clicking really bad, I don't think it's worth going through the mess of putting a boot on for it to blow in no time. I filled out the warranty slip online but haven't heard back. Or very possible it didn't go through on my end.
Boot definitely ain't gonna fix yours. Too much heat.
 
ToddACimer

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When you greased the joint did you apply a similar amount of grease to both sides of the CV? Also before clamping the boot did you stroke the CV joint all the way in and then half way back out? Most of the issues I've seen with hot joints or expanding boots are related to having too much air in the boot on assembly and not clamping the boot with the CV joint roughly center in the cup. I always try to clamp my boots on the bench to ensure the shaft length is as close to ride height as possible and minimal air is in the boot.

Might be worth giving it another shot
 
Remington

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Yeah, bracket lift
My want to fix that boot with new one or re band it, take that suspension Geometry out of wack lift out and try it. I bet it wont happen again! I had a bracket lift at one point, i call it the poor mans lift 😂 got a couple leaky boots also A few times. Besides the shock suspension Geometry now dam near straight up and down, a few other things were slightly off from normal. Some new arms and shocks to adjust preload is the way to go If u want to stay with stock axels. Longer axels with bigger/higher arms
 
C

cawilkes

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My want to fix that boot with new one or re band it, take that suspension Geometry out of wack lift out and try it. I bet it wont happen again! I had a bracket lift at one point, i call it the poor mans lift 😂 got a couple leaky boots also A few times. Besides the shock suspension Geometry now dam near straight up and down, a few other things were slightly off from normal. Some new arms and shocks to adjust preload is the way to go If u want to stay with stock axels. Longer axels with bigger/higher arms
I get what you’re saying, but how come the previous 2000 miles with the same setup (aside from the rhino axle) and same driving conditions I had zero issues? The right rear axle is what changed. Not the lift. I once could make it 2000 miles without issues now I can’t make it 20…
 
Remington

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I get what you’re saying, but how come the previous 2000 miles with the same setup (aside from the rhino axle) and same driving conditions I had zero issues? The right rear axle is what changed. Not the lift. I once could make it 2000 miles without issues now I can’t make it 20…
Took mine a while before my issue started as well. Just like when in my job as a gen tech I get the same question when It failed from overloading “why did it work fine all that time before?” When Its new or new to the problem, the issues don't show up right away. It happens as things start to ware down prematurely. Now, u might have an internal issue now thats gone too far as well. Id take that rear diff apart and check for uneven ware On the mating parts.
 
Smitty335

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Looked up and saw this young wide 6 point eating some peaces off our tree, he'll be nice in a couple years if he can survive the hunting seasons. Picture is really not that good, but.
TempImagehRTNo1
 
Remington

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Looked up and saw this young wide 6 point eating some peaces off our tree, he'll be nice in a couple years if he can survive the hunting seasons. Picture is really not that good, but.View attachment 344414
nice buck, but whats that got to do with an axel boot coming off?
 

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