P1000 2016 Pioneer 3p Low Range Issue

Brett002

Brett002

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Ok guys so I need a little help... My pioneer won't go into low unless I slam and bang from neutral to low with my shifter. Can any of you please help with what cable to adjust. I'm either getting a - or H on the display when I try shifting to low. I can make it engage but have to slam it to low from neutral. This is a 2016 pioneer 1000 3 seat. I'm pretty sure I need to adjust the cables under my dash. I just don't know which one as there are several. Can any of you please pull the portion from the manual and post it here for me... Or lead me in the right direction?


Thanks!!!
 
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Tundra20

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DEA27CD4 51C9 4C0B BBC4 6EA3B923A544
So there is a box with 4 screws on the driver side just underneath the bed that has the adjustments cables there is a u tube video a guy on here has that explains it well heres a picture of what u lookin for
 
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Tundra20

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Mabe some others will chime in at beer 30 :D:Dbut that box u see in picture is what u lookin for i cant find the tube video for u but its fairly simple pull those screws out u will see three mabe 4 i cant member adjustment cables thats ur adjustment point
 
Brett002

Brett002

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Thank you! @snuffnwhisky I knew the little black box wouldn't be where I needed to look. I wanted to check with you all before I started turning wrenches... If anybody would know the ins and outs of one...
 
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Brett002

Brett002

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Alright @CumminsPusher I’ve been tinkering with the pioneer for the last several hrs with the same results...

So I have followed the steps per the manual pages in your other thread. Machine in neutral battery out.

Machine says it goes through all gears fine and they indicate on dash as so until I get to low that’s when I just get a “-“ on the dash. I can phisically actuate the shift lever on side of trans to get it into low but it acts as the cable doesn’t have enough to move the lever completely over to grab low.

Am I missing something here? Sound like my cable is shot?

I’ve tried the adjuster nuts under battery in both directions but still won’t engage low.

Please help... thanks!
 
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CumminsPusher

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Man I really do assume it’s cable. Is there a possibility that it got pinched from an accessory, screw through it or something is jammed in the front shift gate? Possibly bent bracket?
 
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Brett002

Brett002

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I do have a little play in the shifting mechanism under the dash. Which is to be expected as I'm at something like 16,xxx miles on the ol gal. I know that a 1/8" up top can be amplified to a 1/4" down bottom... but it's almost as if I need to take the shift arm loose from trans rotate it a couple of splines and re-install. The cable isn't moving the arm enough to get it into low. When I move lever into low on dash it hangs up in high on trans and gives me a "-" on the dash. I can then reach down to the arm on the trans and apply a little more force, it will then go into low.

Let me know what you think. @CumminsPusher

What do you think @HondaTech I know you have some vast knowledge of these things and if not access to it.
 
CumminsPusher

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Does it still read blank on the dash when you manually force it to low?
Btw 16k congratulations! That’s some getting out there
 
Brett002

Brett002

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Does it still read blank on the dash when you manually force it to low?
Btw 16k congratulations! That’s some getting out there


No bud when I physically actuate the trans arm by hand with lever in low on dash I can get it to show "L" on the speedo. Just needs that little bit more umph to get it into low on the trans. The umph is from me.

Yeah bud ( @CumminsPusher ) she has treated me well. If I was to go buy something new again right now it would be another pioneer 1000. I can truly attest to Hondas quality in these machines. I haven't been extremely hard on her just mostly dirt roads. This low issue has me stumped though. The cable adjustment nuts under dash doesn't seem to be doing anything at the other end of the cable at the trans no matter what way I adjust them.

I'm going to try and call some dealers around me and see how good of people they are with offering help instead of the ol' "you'll have to bring it in" lol
 
snuffnwhisky

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Move the shifter up and down to take out the freeplay when in any gear while watching the shift linkage. It should be direct acting with not really any slack. Seems like I remember reading about a crimped on end on the cable coming loose and sliding on the cable a little. Might want to drain the oil into a clean container and check it out also.
 
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H

HondaTech

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Take a close look at the cable on the sub trans side, I've had one with the plastic sleeve inside the rubber boot snap and cause the cable to flex upwards instead of shoving the arm into Low.

Also check to make sure the bushing is in the eyelet down there as well, which it should be unless someone has had the cable off before.

Other than that, it made be time to split the sub trans abs look inside.
 
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Shannon840

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Take a close look at the cable on the sub trans side, I've had one with the plastic sleeve inside the rubber boot snap and cause the cable to flex upwards instead of shoving the arm into Low.

Also check to make sure the bushing is in the eyelet down there as well, which it should be unless someone has had the cable off before.

Other than that, it made be time to split the sub trans abs look inside.

I had the exact same symptom with low range and after a lot of screwing around with cable adjustments I took the machine to another dealer and they found that the sub trans had been overfilled with oil (by my original dealer). They drained it and re-filled and I was good to go.
 
Brett002

Brett002

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I had the exact same symptom with low range and after a lot of screwing around with cable adjustments I took the machine to another dealer and they found that the sub trans had been overfilled with oil (by my original dealer). They drained it and re-filled and I was good to go.

Alright guys so after some phone calls to the surrounding dealers with no help... Well one said bring it in we'll split the trans and see what's going on. How about um no... I carried it to my local shade tree and had him help me diagnose the problem. Needed more hands.

It is exactly as you all describe. It was the smaller sleeve had left the crimp on the shift cable. You could see the cable buckle in that area behind the rubber sleeve. We cut the rubber sleeve away from that area. (Cable already broke so why not?) Now this is where the shade tree came in to play. He slid the sleeve back into position grabbed his trusty vice grips and then grabbed the very edge where the rubber boot was cut away. He then re-crimped the end using just two sides of the stationary piece that is attached to the motor. Man do I wish I taken pictures of all this. It grabbed the smaller piece that had broken pretty well. Slipped him a $50 because he had put a fuel pump in my little boys rzr 170 and that was $40. Gotta love them shade trees! Now to order a shift cable.

Thanks guys for all your help. Hopefully this helps someone even if they are out on the trail. You can manually change the gear on the side if the trans by hand as long as it matches the position on the dash. the location is by your right foot under seat. If you have a set of vice grips it could easily be temporarily fixed on the trail to get you back to the truck.

Oil changes, air filters, rear diff (under warranty kept puking out front pinion seals), now shift cable, not bad for as many miles as she has.
 
Tundra20

Tundra20

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Alright guys so after some phone calls to the surrounding dealers with no help... Well one said bring it in we'll split the trans and see what's going on. How about um no... I carried it to my local shade tree and had him help me diagnose the problem. Needed more hands.

It is exactly as you all describe. It was the smaller sleeve had left the crimp on the shift cable. You could see the cable buckle in that area behind the rubber sleeve. We cut the rubber sleeve away from that area. (Cable already broke so why not?) Now this is where the shade tree came in to play. He slid the sleeve back into position grabbed his trusty vice grips and then grabbed the very edge where the rubber boot was cut away. He then re-crimped the end using just two sides of the stationary piece that is attached to the motor. Man do I wish I taken pictures of all this. It grabbed the smaller piece that had broken pretty well. Slipped him a $50 because he had put a fuel pump in my little boys rzr 170 and that was $40. Gotta love them shade trees! Now to order a shift cable.

Thanks guys for all your help. Hopefully this helps someone even if they are out on the trail. You can manually change the gear on the side if the trans by hand as long as it matches the position on the dash. the location is by your right foot under seat. If you have a set of vice grips it could easily be temporarily fixed on the trail to get you back to the truck.

Oil changes, air filters, rear diff (under warranty kept puking out front pinion seals), now shift cable, not bad for as many miles as she has.





Good to know man sorry i spoke to soon i was way off on tellin u I learned something new good to know as well
 
Brett002

Brett002

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Good to know man sorry i spoke to soon i was way off on tellin u I learned something new good to know as well

Your cool @Tundra20 I had adjusted the cables in the black box before and new they were for different adjustments.

That is one good looking buggy you have btw. Sounds like you maybe make great choices on trucks as well. (I drive an 08' 5.7 SR5 4x4)
 
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Tundra20

Tundra20

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Your cool @Tundra20 I had adjusted the cables in the black box before and new they were for different adjustments.

That is one good looking buggy you have btw. Sounds like you maybe make great choices on trucks as well. (I drive an 08' 5.7 SR5 4x4)


Yup got a 07 5.7 love it
cant go wrong with toyota , honda and a good zebco reel lol
 
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