P1000 2017 Honda Pioneer 1000-5 Parasitic Draw Problem

akadougie

akadougie

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After almost five years of no issues with SxS I now have a draw on my main battery somewhere.
So far I have:
-replaced both of my batteries
-nothing wrong with seconondary and all the aftermarket stuff I have installed
-Put SxS back to stock configuration for electrical
-Started to pull fuses and checking every hour or two to see if there has been any drop in voltage
-I am on my last mini fuse, next would be to pull main fuse and EPS

My multimeter maybe not be reading the amp draw correctly so this is why I am checking the battery voltage. After fully charging battery and putting SxS back to stock configuration it has dropped down to 12.36 volts (from 12.9) over 32 hours.

Any Ideas?
 
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JACKAL

JACKAL

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12.36 volts for an resting UTV battery seems normal to me, all of my last 5 SXS never showed 12.4 volt static but 14.1 V when running due to charging system in engines. I know Auto batteries are supposed to be 12.6 V resting voltage.
 
ODAMO

ODAMO

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The dash has a clock, not sure how much that would drain.
Also, do the Pioneers have any fuel vapor stuff tht purges now and then even when off?
 
akadougie

akadougie

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12.36 volts for an resting UTV battery seems normal to me, all of my last 5 SXS never showed 12.4 volt static but 14.1 V when running due to charging system in engines. I know Auto batteries are supposed to be 12.6 V resting voltage.
My secondary battery stays at 12.6 resting. After 4 days my new main battery will drop below 9 volts and will not start SxS so there is a problem.
 
akadougie

akadougie

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The dash has a clock, not sure how much that would drain.
Also, do the Pioneers have any fuel vapor stuff tht purges now and then even when off?
Yes there is, however, that shouldnt kill a battery in 4 days.
Not sure about fuel vapor purge, but that might be the last fuse I pulled this morning before work (not really sure).
 
akadougie

akadougie

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I also noticed a huge power drop on the main during turning on vehicle from ignition compared to in the past. I am assuming they are related in some manner.
 
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bumperm

bumperm

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Here are two ways you can use your VOM (volt ohm meter) to find out if you have a problem.

Make sure everything is off, key off, aux power off (if there's a switch).

Remove the negative lead from one battery. Set your meter to read amps (this often requires you to put plug the red lead into a different receptacle on the meter body). Touch a meter lead to the negative terminal of the battery you disconnected. Touch the other meter lead to the battery cable you disconnected earlier. Is there a reading? If so, your phantom load is on that battery.

If you don't know how to use the amp meter function, you can use the voltmeter function by connecting a resistor between the negative battery terminal and the battery lead - then connect voltmeter - any voltage means there is current flow through the resistor.

Repeat above test on the other battery. This will determine which battery has the parasitic load. Once you determine that, reconnect the battery lead/s. Now check the fuse block fed by the battery with parasitic load. Remove one fuse at a time and connect the amp meter from one side of the fuse connector to the other. A spare blown fuse can be helpful for this, as if you look closely, each fuse has a small opening above it's leads so you can gently push this fuse in (doesn't have to be seated all the way), then put the meter tips on these little bare metal test spots.

This may sound complicated, but it's really quick and easy.
 
DRZRon1

DRZRon1

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suggestions....

if next 2 fuses get ya no resolution....

-just disconnect battery and let sit and see if voltage holds or have battery tested

-check positive cable to main fuse

big amp draw while cranking......starter solenoid, valves out of adjust, decompress mech?
 
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