P700 700 Shock Question

[NewHere2]

I am curious how this turns out for you. What was the part # for the Fox shocks?

This is the part number for the (1000) P1K-3 Fox Shocks from Honda. Remember, they come as a pair in a box. There are 2 pair sitting there.

I don’t recall if my dealer looked it up as a 2018 (that’s the year of my buggy) or just took the 2022 number.

 

[Admin]

 

[NewHere2]

The shock on the left with the black spring, is a (1000) P1K-5 front shock. Part number 51400-HL4-FO1..

The second shock from the left with the red spring is a Fox (1000) P1K-3 front shock. Part number 08Z70-HL4-F50..

The third shock from the left with the gray spring is the OE rear shock from my 700-4D.

The shock on the right with the gray spring is the OE front shock from my 700-4D..

As I posted earlier, the 1000 front shocks are 1/2” longer than the 700 front shocks.

Likewise, those 1000 front shocks are 1 1/2” longer than the 700 rear shocks..

Notice the (1000) P1K-3 and the P1K-5 shocks are the same length. Big difference in the spring lengths.

The part numbers I have listed are from the 2018 model Pioneers. Some may have carried thru the years, I don’t know.

 

[NewHere2]

I am curious how this turns out for you. What was the part # for the Fox shocks?

These are 2018 part numbers.

 

[JRH]

Have you had a chance to put them on and try them out yet? We are curious! Thanks for the great information.

 

[NewHere2]

This is the front mounted Fox P1K-3 Shocks.

Don’t need to remove tires to do this. Raise/jack the front end high enough to get full extension on the existing shocks. Remove the 2 shock bolts. Slightly bend the brake line support tab rearward for clearance on the larger springs.

The lower mounting shock tabs need to be widened 1/8 “. I took a short 2x4 block, drove it into the mount deep enough to be under the bolt hole. Then with the block still in place, I hammered the tabs on each side, flush with the 2x4.
Or surface grind 1/16” off each side of the lower end of the shock.

Installed the RB3 front shock bolt adapters in the shocks and installed the shock.

Removing old shocks and installing new ones takes about 25 minutes per side for the fronts.

Absolutely no clearance issues at full extension. I haven’t had time yet to check on full compression problems. Don’t think it should be an issue since the shocks I had on there were just as long. These new ones have a larger diameter spring. All looks OK, but will ratchet strap them down to make sure.

 

[NewHere2]

Rear shocks had to be inverted due to clearance problems at the bottom of the shock.

Raise / jack the buggy so the rear tires can be removed. Make sure the buggy is high enough so the shocks are at full extension.

Rear tires have to be removed, and 4 bolts. Very easy to remove the top Hyme joint from the sway bar and the top spindle bolt. Then the 2 shock bolts.

This mounting allows full extension , but possibly a compression clearance issue. The external shock reservoir may hit my aluminum brush guards. Easy fix when I get more time.

The rear install takes about 40 minutes per side.


Not sure if I will keep the rear the way it turned out. Got to think on that one. Considering using the P3 rears if I can use these springs.

 

[JRH]

What do you mean rear shocks had to be inverted? Is there a way to remove or relocate to make it work? Thanks for keeping us posted on your progress!

 

[NewHere2]

What do you mean rear shocks had to be inverted? Is there a way to remove or relocate to make it work? Thanks for keeping us posted on your progress!

Inverted : I installed it upside down. The normal lower shock eye ( where the mounting bolt goes) wasn’t long enough to give clearance for the larger springs. Contacted the lower A-arm. Easy fix !

Un-Believable the ride they give.

Think I might get a set of 1K-P3 rear shocks just to give them a try. Those will have progressive springs. May not ride as good.

NOT SORRY !!

 

[NewHere2]

This lower shock eyelet is the problem. These shocks are for a (1000) P1K-3 Front shock installation. That lower black eyelet is about 1 1/4 “ too short to allow for mounting on the rear of a 700. It causes the spring to contact the lower A-arm.

I’ve contacted Fox to see if they will sell me a pair of those screw on eyelets for a 700. Easy fix if they will sell me the parts.

Otherwise I’ll see if I can have them made, or just design a taller, stronger mounting bracket on the Honda A-arm.

Again, it’s worth the trouble. NOT SORRY !!

 

[NewHere2]

Up date ! Fox is sending out a pair of longer eyelets. Then I’ll mount the rear shocks correctly.

 

[JRH]

Awesome looking forward to seeing how it turns out and rides.

 

[Gizzy_44]

Nice thread, im considering changing my original socks for Elkas
they have exactly plug and play for P700 or P1000
anyone here has pulled the trigger on these Elkas?like them?

 

[NewHere2]

Got this from Brown Truck today.

Will check it out later.

 

[JRH]

Any updates on this? Really looking to upgrade the stock ones.

 

[NewHere2]

Removed the original 1000-3P piston rod eyelets. Had to use slight heat since they are installed using “Loctite”. Then used a pic to remove the outermost seals. Then used a press to remove the inner eyelet bushing/sleeve.

Not an easy task.

The new, longer eyelets were installed and the results look like this.

Reinstalled the springs on the shocks. Set the rear shock preload rings 3” down from the bottom of the top mount. Then screwed the Locking Ring/backup preload ring down tight against the preload ring.

Mounted the rear shocks in the normal position.

Have minimal clearance on the lower A arm and output shaft. But will work great.

After determining my ride height and Shock Sag/Loaded Squat, I set the front shock preload rings at the same 3” height as the rear. It is just coincidence these came out the same. Depends on the load you normally carry.

Rear view :

Front view :

All this work was due to my desire to use a larger shock body (2”) and the larger spring size (2 1/2”)………….

NOT SORRY !! FANTASTIC RIDE AND CONTROL !!!

 

[NewHere2]

Nice thread, im considering changing my original socks for Elkas
they have exactly plug and play for P700 or P1000
anyone here has pulled the trigger on these Elkas?like them?

I can’t think of anyone that runs Elkas on a 700. Sure there are some out there.

The folks at Elka are highly knowledgeable. I’ve talked to them. I personally think their shocks are well worth the money. Plus their higher end shocks have a couple more adjustments.

Just not in my budget.

 

[NewHere2]

I should add, absolutely no output/drive shaft binding at full extension or full compression .

No need for shock travel limiting straps.

 

[WagginTail]

I should add, absolutely no output/drive shaft binding at full extension or full compression .

No need for shock travel limiting straps.

How's the shocks doing?

 

[Mudwisel]

I can’t think of anyone that runs Elkas on a 700. Sure there are some out there.

The folks at Elka are highly knowledgeable. I’ve talked to them. I personally think their shocks are well worth the money. Plus their higher end shocks have a couple more adjustments.

Just not in my budget.

I had acquired a set of stage on Elka and I would not recommend them for the money. Stage 2 would be the lowest level I would go. I thought my commander shocks gave a better over all ride. Looking to change. not sure which way I am going to go. This looks like it might be an option. Also looking at the 814 or the bandits for the 1000

 

[NewHere2]

How's the shocks doing?

Fantastic ride and handling ! Would do it again. Waiting for hunting season this fall.

I will install the hard doors and glass windshield. There will be more weight on the front end. Should handle the weight much better than the OEM shocks did.