P1000 Another Novice 2nd Battery Install Thread

[BrotherNov]

You guys have to be so tired of this, I couldn't be more sorry to drag you through it again, but I'm stuck. I've read everything this site has to offer and it's still mostly a foreign language to me. I've done my best to digest beautiful wiring diagrams provided by others ( like JoeyL), and used them to come up with my own that I kind of understand. I've attached a PDF of it. Will this work? What's the downside of doing it this way and what would you change to make it better? Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[CID]

I can't answer this question for you but I can say that you don't have to apologize for not knowing something, none of us were born knowing this s***. Sure, there will be the occasional butthead but most of us are here to learn what we don't know and try to teach/share what we do. You've already figured out how to define your thread with a good title, this draws those with answers. I'll be following along, maybe both of us can help the next guy. #beers

 

[BrotherNov]

If I ever get this right I'll not only share everything I've learned, But I'll drive out to help the next "idiot" get his right

 

[JenElio]

You guys have to be so tired of this, I couldn't be more sorry to drag you through it again, but I'm stuck. I've read everything this site has to offer and it's still mostly a foreign language to me. I've done my best to digest beautiful wiring diagrams provided by others ( like JoeyL), and used them to come up with my own that I kind of understand. I've attached a PDF of it. Will this work? What's the downside of doing it this way and what would you change to make it better? Thanks in advance for your help.

Ok so I'm no expert but I'll try and help. The way you have it will work. But looks like your fuse box/accessories will always be hot. I ran my key on power to a small bus bar and from there fed the stinger. That way the stinger kicks on fuse panel only when key is on. Or you can put it on a "on-off-on" switch if you want both options. That and I've heard its good to run the winch negative stright to the frame or in your case that negative bus bar from the extra ground provided by honda. I hope this helps. I'm working on all this crap as well. It can get overwhelming.

 

[BigOL3]

I did not use the stinger/isolator method ....... to complicated for me. I just added a second battery, + to + and neg to neg. Yeah, I know they can both be run down, but I am not prone to leave a radio play or lights on long without it running.

 

[BrotherNov]

Ok so I'm no expert but I'll try and help. The way you have it will work. But looks like your fuse box/accessories will always be hot. I ran my key on power to a small bus bar and from there fed the stinger. That way the stinger kicks on fuse panel only when key is on. Or you can put it on a "on-off-on" switch if you want both options. That and I've heard its good to run the winch negative stright to the frame or in your case that negative bus bar from the extra ground provided by honda. I hope this helps. I'm working on all this crap as well. It can get overwhelming.

That's very helpful, thanks!

 

[JenElio]

I did not use the stinger/isolator method ....... to complicated for me. I just added a second battery, + to + and neg to neg. Yeah, I know they can both be run down, but I am not prone to leave a radio play or lights on long without it running.

Nothing wrong with that. I've done done that on plenty of projects. In my case I have small little ones running around now so I have to make sure we can still crank over when needed 😆. But yeah I love a simple set up. Not'n wrong there

 

[BrotherNov]

Ok so I'm no expert but I'll try and help. The way you have it will work. But looks like your fuse box/accessories will always be hot. I ran my key on power to a small bus bar and from there fed the stinger. That way the stinger kicks on fuse panel only when key is on. Or you can put it on a "on-off-on" switch if you want both options. That and I've heard its good to run the winch negative stright to the frame or in your case that negative bus bar from the extra ground provided by honda. I hope this helps. I'm working on all this crap as well. It can get overwhelming.

That brings up another question, The 2 large terminals I suspect are for the switch, should I connect the key on power to one of the small ones, and a a ground to the other small terminal? You can't boil this down too simply for me. If you look at my drawing, do i just need to add a wire from the key on power source to the remaining terminal?

 

[JenElio]

That brings up another question, The 2 large terminals I suspect are for the switch, should I connect the key on power to one of the small ones, and a a ground to the other small terminal? You can't boil this down too simply for me. If you look at my drawing, do i just need to add a wire from the key on power source to the remaining terminal?

Yes, top (big) ones are from battery+ to fuse block+. The bottom (small) ones are 1) ground- and the other power+ (key on) or (constant hot)

 

[P1000_DLux]

I'm with BIGOL3 on this whole thing, I even bought a stinger and switch to install and decided not to put them in. I just don't park in mud holes and party till I run the juice out. If you sit there and listen to the radio and have your lights on at night I guess I see the allure to them but it is much easier to just install the second battery with the tru isolator then run the aux fuse box off the second battery and power all your aux items through the fuse box, assuming you have rocker switches installed everything will get isolated when you shut down and flip your switches off.

 

[BigOL3]

I'm with BIGOL3 on this whole thing, I even bought a stinger and switch to install and decided not to put them in. I just don't park in mud holes and party till I run the juice out. If you sit there and listen to the radio and have your lights on at night I guess I see the allure to them but it is much easier to just install the second battery with the tru isolator then run the aux fuse box off the second battery and power all your aux items through the fuse box, assuming you have rocker switches installed everything will get isolated when you shut down and flip your switches off.

I did not even use an isolator, basically I just doubled my battery capacity.

 

[CID]

Just remembered I have this showing how simple it can be - the stinger control switch would be your 'key on' power source.

 

[JoeyL]

@BrotherNov again dont worry about aksing for help, its not a problem. I replied to the other thread here, before i saw this thread.

i simplified my diagram a bit and added the switch panel to it. this should be close to what you need.
this diagram gives you the isolator (without the dual volt meter - let me know if you want that) and switches the accessories with the key.
this also assumes that all of your switches can handle the load of your accessories (should be 15-20 amps max)

Go ahead and post what accessories you are thinking about adding, which winch you have, and which fuse box and switch panel you had in mind and i can draw you an exact diagram if you need it.

 

[BrotherNov]

Thanks! I've got the dual volt meter (and relay?) that came with the Isolator kit and an Axon 55 S winch. I won't install it until mid-June when my Tough Country bumper arrives. I plan to put a light bar on the bumper, back up lights (that don't automatically come on in reverse), and if needed some cube lights that illuminate the sides a little better.

 

[JoeyL]

Here is an updated diagram.
i assumed you are using a 6 bank fuse box - if so, you can get rid of the "accessory bus" from my setup and just use one of the fuses from your fuse box to feed the winch and dual volt meter relay.
you should be fine unless you buy a big light bar (like 40" or bigger). that would overload the switch and you will need a relay (we can get to that later if you get there).
the only think i didnt cover is the exact setup at the switches. the diagram just shows a simplified version. just be careful if you bought a prewired switch panel. typically they share a common power input and you can/will run in to overload issues on the main feed. plus it defeats the purpose of your fuse box.

 

[BrotherNov]

You're the best buddy, thanks. I was under the impression that I needed a bus bar connected to key-on main battery power to illuminate the bottom half of my switches - the top half would only be illuminated when they're turned on. Is this correct? I certainly don't mind losing a bus bar, fitting everything in neatly is becoming a challenge.

 

[JoeyL]

it really depends on the switches you have. they can be set up a couple different ways
here is a switch diagram i marked up to show one way to do it. it uses the incoming power from each circuit to power the switch lights

you could also use the same feed from the fuse block that i used to feed the meter relay and winch keyed power to feed the lights in the switches. in that case you would just jumper terminal 6 between all the switches.

 

[BrotherNov]

"Stinger is only on with the key" Does that mean no accessories will work without the key on?

 

[BigOL3]

Thanks! I've got the dual volt meter (and relay?) that came with the Isolator kit and an Axon 55 S winch. I won't install it until mid-June when my Tough Country bumper arrives. I plan to put a light bar on the bumper, back up lights (that don't automatically come on in reverse), and if needed some cube lights that illuminate the sides a little better.

What did the TC end up costing with shipping?

 

[BrotherNov]

What did the TC end up costing with shipping?

$832 shipped to Central Illinois