I finally finished the install on for the second battery, switch panel, fuse/relay box, and lights on my P1000-5. It's been on my to-do list for months. I got the fuse/relay box and switches installed a couple weeks ago, and then got the aux battery last week so that was put in and I got everything buttoned up Saturday.
I ordered a 8 hole switch panel from Mystic (on here), switches from OTRATTW, and the voltmeter & USB ports are Mictuning from Amazon. I drilled the original holes out to fit OEM plastic push pins, I happy with the result, I think it looks factory.
Instead of the bussman box everyone uses, I decided to be different and went with a Littelfuse HWB60. It's a lot more customizable than the bussman, but also at bit more of a pain. It used metri-pack 280 connectors. Here's the finish product of the back of the box. I used 2 6-circuit weather-pack connectors to tie into the switch panel. There are 4 circuits not in use, and at least that much room in the box should I decide to add more later.
Next, for lights I got a 20" Nilight bar for the front and 2 cubes for the back. To mount the front, I bent a piece of 1/4" aluminum bar stock I had with some factory bar clamps to reach over the top of the windshield (removed to install in the pics) and hang the light bar just under the roof. I don't like how much it bounces so I bought a piece of 3/8" steel bar stock that I'll bend one of these days.
In the back, I used some nylon washers for spacers and mounted the cubes to the factory netting mount points. The nylon washers make it easy to swivel the cubes and not worry about backing out the mounting bolt.
I used Delphi connectors for the light harnesses.
Front:
Back:
This is what I looked like under the hood after all that was installed. At this point I also added a wireless winch remote. It's the $20-some-odd part from Amazon others have used. Seem to do that job in the little testing I did, but I still have the hard-wired switch on the dash too.
Then, when I got the second battery, I moved everything off the primary battery and installed a True isolator as recommended on this board. Rather than pony up for the Odyssey battery everyone seems to use, I went to the local battery shop and had a comparable part ordered. It cost me $98, and I have a local store front to take it to if there's any issues. I used plumbers strap' and some more factory push-pins to hold it down, not the prettiest, but it works. Now the only things attached to the factory wiring are the isolator, of course, and taps on the ACC wire under the fuse box and the brown wire on the light harness to the lower LEDs on my switches.
These last two pictures are of the switch panel with the Aux switch on (to power the acc circuits without needing to turn the key on), and under the hood of the fuse/relay box when I was testing placement so you can see what that looks like. Since the "MAIN" volt reading comes from the key-on power circuit, it shows 0 with this switch on. The key had to be turned on to check the main batter voltage. One reason I went the Littelfuse box is because I have to configured to be self contained. I'm limited to 30 amps, but I doubt I'd ever exceed that and need an external fuse and solenoid. It's not shown, but I also have an MTX soundbar that's been in place for a while. It was hardwired with the winch before, but now it's properly fused and wired to power on with the rest of the accessory circuits.
I ordered a 8 hole switch panel from Mystic (on here), switches from OTRATTW, and the voltmeter & USB ports are Mictuning from Amazon. I drilled the original holes out to fit OEM plastic push pins, I happy with the result, I think it looks factory.
Instead of the bussman box everyone uses, I decided to be different and went with a Littelfuse HWB60. It's a lot more customizable than the bussman, but also at bit more of a pain. It used metri-pack 280 connectors. Here's the finish product of the back of the box. I used 2 6-circuit weather-pack connectors to tie into the switch panel. There are 4 circuits not in use, and at least that much room in the box should I decide to add more later.
Next, for lights I got a 20" Nilight bar for the front and 2 cubes for the back. To mount the front, I bent a piece of 1/4" aluminum bar stock I had with some factory bar clamps to reach over the top of the windshield (removed to install in the pics) and hang the light bar just under the roof. I don't like how much it bounces so I bought a piece of 3/8" steel bar stock that I'll bend one of these days.
In the back, I used some nylon washers for spacers and mounted the cubes to the factory netting mount points. The nylon washers make it easy to swivel the cubes and not worry about backing out the mounting bolt.
I used Delphi connectors for the light harnesses.
Front:
Back:This is what I looked like under the hood after all that was installed. At this point I also added a wireless winch remote. It's the $20-some-odd part from Amazon others have used. Seem to do that job in the little testing I did, but I still have the hard-wired switch on the dash too.
Then, when I got the second battery, I moved everything off the primary battery and installed a True isolator as recommended on this board. Rather than pony up for the Odyssey battery everyone seems to use, I went to the local battery shop and had a comparable part ordered. It cost me $98, and I have a local store front to take it to if there's any issues. I used plumbers strap' and some more factory push-pins to hold it down, not the prettiest, but it works. Now the only things attached to the factory wiring are the isolator, of course, and taps on the ACC wire under the fuse box and the brown wire on the light harness to the lower LEDs on my switches.
These last two pictures are of the switch panel with the Aux switch on (to power the acc circuits without needing to turn the key on), and under the hood of the fuse/relay box when I was testing placement so you can see what that looks like. Since the "MAIN" volt reading comes from the key-on power circuit, it shows 0 with this switch on. The key had to be turned on to check the main batter voltage. One reason I went the Littelfuse box is because I have to configured to be self contained. I'm limited to 30 amps, but I doubt I'd ever exceed that and need an external fuse and solenoid. It's not shown, but I also have an MTX soundbar that's been in place for a while. It was hardwired with the winch before, but now it's properly fused and wired to power on with the rest of the accessory circuits.
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