P1000 Back-up / Work Lights / ACC Switch from The Club Store

[packer58]

So....My question is....

I've ordered the auto back-up / work light harness and the DIY back-up light pigtail and am now looking at light options, will the OE back-up / back alarm circuit handle two 30 watt led lights ?? I read the amp specs provided for the harness but don't quite understand what they're trying to tell me as far as amp rating..

Thanks

 

[Admin]

 

[Hillbillytnt]

So....My question is....

I've ordered the auto back-up / work light harness and the DIY back-up light pigtail and am now looking at light options, will the OE back-up / back alarm circuit handle two 30 watt led lights ?? I read the amp specs provided for the harness but don't quite understand what they're trying to tell me as far as amp rating..

Thanks

Why did you buy both. Just wondering what else you’re planning on hooking up.
I’m running two 4” quad row side shooter pods on the back up light harness without a relay with no problems. If you’re worried about the draw then just run it through a relay. I prob should have run mine through a relay but didn’t have one handy and was excited to get them hooked up.

 

[packer58]

Why did you buy both. Just wondering what else you’re planning on hooking up.
I’m running two 4” quad row side shooter pods on the back up light harness without a relay with no problems. If you’re worried about the draw then just run it through a relay. I prob should have run mine through a relay but didn’t have one handy and was excited to get them hooked up.

Buying both was recommended when I asked the question on the club store site, it makes sense to me that one of the harness plugs will plug into OEM back alarm / back-up light port and then plug the back-up light / work light pigtail into the other harness port. After reading your response I guess I could have cut the downstream plug off of the harness and connected my lighting wires directly at that point..... but for another $10.00 I went that route.
When I calculate the amp draw @ (2) 30 watt lights divided by 12 volts = 5 amps total. The other thing that got me a little sideways was the club store talked about combined amps between the OEM back-up port and the OEM ACC circuit...... are they the same circuit ??

 

[Hondasxs]

No concerns with your 30w lights.
Yes, the backup alarm port is part of the ACC circuit. This includes the CIG port as well.
So this needs to be considered in the total load. We recommend keeping the rear lights around six amps but can do up to 10.
HOWEVER...
The worklight kit removes the rear lights from the ACC circuit and puts it on its own circuit as you will need to provide fused power up front, preferably from your secondary fuse box.

Why you need both....
Because the worklight kit is just an addon, assuming you have auto-backup lights or plan to add some.
Just buying just the worklight kit will leave you no further along in your process of adding backup lights.
We offer pigtails in 6", 5ft, and 9ft for this as well as our auto-backup light kit.

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[packer58]

Thanks a bunch for the clarification, I assumed the back-up light / alarm port was on the ACC circuit but didn't test it and wasn't sure but the combined amp draw info now makes perfect sense to me. Ordered the harness and pigtail yesterday so should get it this coming week......

I have another question regarding the wiring of the club store ON / OFF / KEY ON switch but will ask later this evening.......

Thanks again

 

[packer58]

Ok, here's my evening question but probably a little late for you easterners.......

So, i have the Key-On/Off/Aux plug wired, loomed and ran up under the hood getting ready to make connections....

Ground > Self explanatory
Key-On > _________________
Stinger > _________________
Battery > Will be fused and self explanatory

What i have installed so far is:

Duel battery
True-am isolator
Duel voltmeter
12 slot fuse block
Cole Hersey solenoid
Club store ACC harness for key on solenoid trigger power source

I'm having a mental block on the key-on and stinger connection points for some reason and need a little jump start.

Thanks for any help

 

[Hondasxs]

Ok, here's my evening question but probably a little late for you easterners.......

So, i have the Key-On/Off/Aux plug wired, loomed and ran up under the hood getting ready to make connections....

Ground > Self explanatory
Key-On > _________________
Stinger > _________________
Battery > Will be fused and self explanatory

What i have installed so far is:

Duel battery
True-am isolator
Duel voltmeter
12 slot fuse block
Cole Hersey solenoid
Club store ACC harness for key on solenoid trigger power source

I'm having a mental block on the key-on and stinger connection points for some reason and need a little jump start.

Thanks for any help


View attachment 359023

Key-on is power from the ACC harness. It will have power with key ON.
The stinger is the power to the stinger relay, the small post.

 

[packer58]

Key-on is power from the ACC harness. It will have power with key ON.
The stinger is the power to the stinger relay, the small post.

Ok, with your help i think my brain jumped back into gear....
Before i discovered your ON/OFF/AUX i had purchased your ACC harness to use as the key on trigger source to my solenoid... so that was stuck in my head when looking at the wiring diagram for your on/off/aux and got a little scrambled.

So, key-on from switch wiring to ACC harness powers the switch when key-on is selected and the key is on....once the key is on and the switch is still in the key-on position power runs through the switch to the stinger wire that will become a trigger source for my solenoid.....

Just so i understand the internal workings of the switch..... When i select AUX on the switch does the battery wire send power through the switch to the stinger wire and trigger my solenoid to energize my fuse block ??

Sorry for being OCD long winded but want to fully understand just in case there's a test later.....

Thanks again for your clarification and help, this community is great

 

[packer58]

Ok, with your help i think my brain jumped back into gear....
Before i discovered your ON/OFF/AUX i had purchased your ACC harness to use as the key on trigger source to my solenoid... so that was stuck in my head when looking at the wiring diagram for your on/off/aux and got a little scrambled.

So, key-on from switch wiring to ACC harness powers the switch when key-on is selected and the key is on....once the key is on and the switch is still in the key-on position power runs through the switch to the stinger wire that will become a trigger source for my solenoid.....

Just so i understand the internal workings of the switch..... When i select AUX on the switch does the battery wire send power through the switch to the stinger wire and trigger my solenoid to energize my fuse block ??

Sorry for being OCD long winded but want to fully understand just in case there's a test later.....

Thanks again for your clarification and help, this community is great

Bumping this up

 

[Hondasxs]

I'm still not sure what your question is or how better to explain it, but I will try.
The switch becomes the stinger control unit.
Its just a 3-way switch that allows you to control the stinger in 3 ways, (key-on only), (off), or (ON)


UP - (AUX) this is a direct connection from the second battery 12v positive, it should be fused (inline fuse). with this, it turns the stinger on at all times irrelevant to the key. The power source, feed source, and other sources should have 100% no connection to the primary battery or factory system.

The middle is off. stinger off.

DOWN - (KEY-ON) with the key ON, the stinger will be on. These use factory power to trigger the stinger system to turn on. All other accessories come from the second fuse box.

Where to connect each wire...
GROUND. This can be pulled from the secondary fuse box or other ground.
KEY-ON. This is the ACC key-on wire we sell.
STINGER. This is the small positive post on the stinger.
BATTERY. This is a direct wire from the second battery. I recommend fusing it 2amp if you have one.

 

[packer58]

I'm still not sure what your question is or how better to explain it, but I will try.
The switch becomes the stinger control unit.
Its just a 3-way switch that allows you to control the stinger in 3 ways, (key-on only), (off), or (ON)


UP - (AUX) this is a direct connection from the second battery 12v positive, it should be fused (inline fuse). with this, it turns the stinger on at all times irrelevant to the key. The power source, feed source, and other sources should have 100% no connection to the primary battery or factory system.

The middle is off. stinger off.

DOWN - (KEY-ON) with the key ON, the stinger will be on. These use factory power to trigger the stinger system to turn on. All other accessories come from the second fuse box.

Where to connect each wire...
GROUND. This can be pulled from the secondary fuse box or other ground.
KEY-ON. This is the ACC key-on wire we sell.
STINGER. This is the small positive post on the stinger.
BATTERY. This is a direct wire from the second battery. I recommend fusing it 2amp if you have one.

You nailed it with .....It's just a three way switch.....I fully understand now how the switch internals work and you confirmed what I suspected

Thanks again for your time and the detailed info..