It's a Spal 5.2" fan
It's similar to this one. Spal 30103013 5.2" Paddle Blade Pusher Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OBP182/?tag=sxsweb24-20
It's similar to this one. Spal 30103013 5.2" Paddle Blade Pusher Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OBP182/?tag=sxsweb24-20
I'm almost embarrassed to ask, but how do you hook-up the electric? I see the fuse box, but have no idea of how to tie into it. Are any special tool required? I need to install a fan on my P3 for sure since the heat forces me to remove the doors just to survive in the summer.
There are several ways to do it, most add fuse blocks as they know they are gonna add other accessories, some powered only with key on (like the cooling fan you are considering) and perhaps another that provides power to accessories even when key is off. At the least, you'll want to add a fuse and run minimum 16 ga stranded wire down and under the floor boards (accessible from the underside) then up into the area under the seat. You'll probably add a rocker switch on the panel to control it. Make sure all wiring is secure and won't be subject to chafing etc.
brettc
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
If you are just getting started with the first accessory (under seat fan), this would kick start the process without having to add a fuse block, etc.
store.hondasxs.com
This provides a key on power source near your dash panel where I would presume you'd add your switch for a fan.
As said above, run #16 AWG wire, and I'd probably add a 10a fuse inline.
KEY ON POWER Harness for Honda Pioneer 1000, 700, 500, and Talon 1000.
Quick and easy KEY ON Accessory power source for your Honda Pioneer. PLUG-N-PLAY No Splicing of wires. No Tapping of wires. 3ft lead easily reaches anywhere under the hood. This kit plugs inline with OEM harness and provides a 12v positive lead. Use this Key-On Accessory wire to run the...
store.hondasxs.com
This provides a key on power source near your dash panel where I would presume you'd add your switch for a fan.
As said above, run #16 AWG wire, and I'd probably add a 10a fuse inline.
Thanks for the help.If you are just getting started with the first accessory (under seat fan), this would kick start the process without having to add a fuse block, etc.
KEY ON POWER Harness for Honda Pioneer 1000, 700, 500, and Talon 1000.
Quick and easy KEY ON Accessory power source for your Honda Pioneer. PLUG-N-PLAY No Splicing of wires. No Tapping of wires. 3ft lead easily reaches anywhere under the hood. This kit plugs inline with OEM harness and provides a 12v positive lead. Use this Key-On Accessory wire to run the...
This provides a key on power source near your dash panel where I would presume you'd add your switch for a fan.
As said above, run #16 AWG wire, and I'd probably add a 10a fuse inline.
brettc
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
So I finally implemented version 1.0 of my seat heat reduction. I originally ordered an 8" Derale radiator fan, then I ordered a 5" version of it just to see if it might be enough. I have temporarily wired it in as I will be adding the second battery, isolator, fuse block later this fall when it cools off (too damn hot out in the shop right now). Anyway, first half of August my wife and I will be headed to our cabin in western Colorado, we'll ride 200-300 miles during that time at altitudes of from 8,000-11,000 ft. So we should have an idea of how well it works. Testing around the neighborhood in our 100 degree heat this week I can already tell a difference.
This is the fan I currently have installed:
It's 315 CFM, pointed directly at the exhaust manifold. This is a puller fan rated at 3.6 amps.
Here's a picture and a couple of videos, one with just the fan running and the seat and insulation up - then with the engine running I turn the fan on/off - it's barely noticeable. I do have the DEI insulation package installed under the seat, P1000-3.
fan with opened up seat:
Fan with seat closed and engine running:
This is the fan I currently have installed:
Derale 16105 5" Diameter H.O. Extreme Electric Fan
Amazon.com: Derale 16105 5" Diameter H.O. Extreme Electric Fan , Black : Automotive
Buy Derale 16105 5" Diameter H.O. Extreme Electric Fan , Black: Fans - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
It's 315 CFM, pointed directly at the exhaust manifold. This is a puller fan rated at 3.6 amps.
Here's a picture and a couple of videos, one with just the fan running and the seat and insulation up - then with the engine running I turn the fan on/off - it's barely noticeable. I do have the DEI insulation package installed under the seat, P1000-3.
fan with opened up seat:
Fan with seat closed and engine running:
N
Brett this seems very nice. Please keep us updated as to how well it works.
E
I have a 2017 P1000-5. The seat heat was unbearable during the summer here in Northern Nevada. The metal parts of the seat belts that attach to the frame would brand you...
Honda dealer was no help. It is amazing that Honda has not addressed this issue as well as the dust issue. They had a recall that put in a couple of little heat shields, but they made no difference at all. I went down to the auto parts store & bought a roll of hood insulation for automobiles. About 1/2" thick with aluminum foil on one side. Cut a piece to fit directly under the seat, with the foil side facing the engine. Wrapped & tapped the frame bars all around the seat belt connections. End of hot seat issue....
Honda dealer was no help. It is amazing that Honda has not addressed this issue as well as the dust issue. They had a recall that put in a couple of little heat shields, but they made no difference at all. I went down to the auto parts store & bought a roll of hood insulation for automobiles. About 1/2" thick with aluminum foil on one side. Cut a piece to fit directly under the seat, with the foil side facing the engine. Wrapped & tapped the frame bars all around the seat belt connections. End of hot seat issue....
E
I have been battling the dust issue. Here are 3 things that I have done that have made a big difference:
1. Put the P1000 on ramps, put a bright shop light in the floorboard facing towards the front of the machine , and the crawled under it with a caulking gun loaded with black silicon. Unbelievable amount of openings. Caulked up most of the cracks that were letting in dust from the front wheels.
Big improvement.
2. Sealed the front & rear doors with heavy weather stripping.
Another big improvement.
3. Installed a vinyl window between the front seats and the bed. (Already had a vinyl window on the back. This allows the air coming in from the open front windshield to "pressure up" the front cabin and keep the dust from rolling in on the sides.
Another big improvement.
You would think that as expensive as this machine is, that Honda would have these options available........
1. Put the P1000 on ramps, put a bright shop light in the floorboard facing towards the front of the machine , and the crawled under it with a caulking gun loaded with black silicon. Unbelievable amount of openings. Caulked up most of the cracks that were letting in dust from the front wheels.
Big improvement.
2. Sealed the front & rear doors with heavy weather stripping.
Another big improvement.
3. Installed a vinyl window between the front seats and the bed. (Already had a vinyl window on the back. This allows the air coming in from the open front windshield to "pressure up" the front cabin and keep the dust from rolling in on the sides.
Another big improvement.
You would think that as expensive as this machine is, that Honda would have these options available........
E
Another issue is the winch. Broke one of the flanges off doing some heavy winching. Changed out the drum & the line, and noticed that the drum is offset to the fairleads!
There is about a 1" misalignment. It is the factory 4500 lb winch. Again, no help or ideas from Honda or the dealer.
There is about a 1" misalignment. It is the factory 4500 lb winch. Again, no help or ideas from Honda or the dealer.
M
M
Neohio
Beast of the East
Lifetime Member
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Club Contributor
You can hear it. When you're sitting still you hear it over the engine when you're driving it isn't noticeable
I have a question regarding wiring. I just know enough to make me dangerous. I tried both a radiator fan and a bilge fan separately and have never been happy with the results. So yesterday a installed both under the seat. I am running both fans off of the same 12awg wire coming from the battery and it does have a fuse installed. A friend said both fans could pull to much and melt the wire. Worries me a little. Thoughts?
Thanks Sdelam. I reviewed the specs of each fan and it looks like each pulls a max of 7a each. I feel better now.
Appreciate the help. Thanks.
Appreciate the help. Thanks.
brettc
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
I'm making several changes to my under seat heat control. I replaced the DEI insulation with a Quickshield. Then I've changed the mounting to more permanent. I used a longer piece of the 1" perforated square tube, carefully notched it to snuggly hang over the center tube and I have welded it to the small removable bracket circled in red below.
I used a 3/4" hole saw drilled at a little bit of an angle to direct the fan at the exhaust manifold.
Wrapped that center tube a couple of times with Gorilla duct tape.
I ran this 5" Derale fan plus the DEI heat shield last summer, it did the job.
Just making it more permanent and getting rid of the itchy insulation.
Dual battery setup this year, fuse block, etc.
I used a 3/4" hole saw drilled at a little bit of an angle to direct the fan at the exhaust manifold.
Wrapped that center tube a couple of times with Gorilla duct tape.
I ran this 5" Derale fan plus the DEI heat shield last summer, it did the job.
Just making it more permanent and getting rid of the itchy insulation.
Dual battery setup this year, fuse block, etc.
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