P1000 Bus Bar vs. Fuse Block?

[sek-hunter]

So, I was fortunate enough to score a Warn Axon 45-S winch for Christmas that I had no clue I was getting. Awesome Fiancé, right? I gave her a hard time telling her she bought me a $600 winch that it was now gonna cost me $400 to install by the time I buy the winch plate, dual battery kit, extra battery, switch plate, etc., lol.

I am only giving her a hard time of course. This will force me to go ahead and get to some electrical stuff that I've been putting off.

I plan on getting the dual battery isolator kit with the dual voltmeter from the store here.

I'll probably go with the Mighty Max Battery.

I also have spoken with @mystic1219 regarding a switch plate. I had one of his on my 700. He makes a great product. I'll get that ordered this week.

I plan on running the winch straight off the aux battery. I'd also like to add a front light bar, maybe cube lights around the lower windshield, a rear bed/backup light bar, and possibly a fan under the seat later on. I'll also switch my SSV Works stereo over to the second battery.

I want to be able to run everything with the key off if so desired. I don't want to have to turn the key on to run work lights or listen to the stereo.

I'll either send switched power to a Stinger to activate the switch panel (via fuse box or bus bar), or may skip the stinger and leave the switch panel hot all the time. I know that the stereo has memory that may put drain on the battery, but I'm usually on the buggy every three days or so anyway, so that hasn't been a problem. I guess I could just install a switch to kill power to the stereo as well.

All of the accessories that I have looked at to use will have harnesses that are fused. Is there any reason I should go with the fuse block rather than just go from the aux battery to a bus bar and get power for them there? I know the fuse block looks cool and you guys do some wiring jobs that I am envious of. I just wonder if it is needed from a safety standpoint if the accessories that I've listed are going to have inline fuses from manufacturer anyway?

I've watched hours of videos and read through countless threads on the different set ups that you all have posted. I appreciate you all sharing all the information that you have. Thanks in advance.

 

[Admin]

 

[tdhanses]

Not really if you’ll have each aux power independently fused but have you considered it’s easier to just go with a fuse box, they aren’t that expensive, got mine for under $20 on Amazon. If you have any fuses blow you won’t have to dig in and look around, just pop the cover and replace.

It really is easy to wire up the second battery and add the fuse box. I also did a bus bar for the negative connections as there are a few to run just to get the second battery, winch etc wired in.

Now if you want direct power it may be easier to also have both pos and net bus bars but for the winch and any heavy draw items but I’d still want a fuse box.

 

[sek-hunter]

I just looked at that fuse box online. It is cheaper than two bus bars, lol. I read in the reviews that it stayed hot even with fuses pulled due to the LED's? You tested that? Good work and set up...

 

[tdhanses]

I just looked at that fuse box online. It is cheaper than two bus bars, lol. I read in the reviews that it stayed hot even with fuses pulled due to the LED's? You tested that? Good work and set up...

It’s not hot really, it will pull .34v though if you test it but not 12v. Believe this is common with all fused connections to have a very small power reading but I could be wrong.

You can touch both pos and neg and feel nothing when there is no fuse. I’d suggest going with a 12 vs a 6 though.

 

[sek-hunter]

It’s not hot really, it will pull .34v though if you test it but not 12v. Believe this is common with all fused connections to have a very small power reading but I could be wrong.

You can touch both pos and neg and feel nothing when there is no fuse. I’d suggest going with a 12 vs a 6 though.

Awesome, thanks for the recommendation and information.

 

[sek-hunter]

Ok, so I'm gonna go with the fuse box....

I definitely want to be able to turn my lights and stereo on without having the key on. I'll put my stereo on a switch so it's memory won't drain power. Is there any real need for the Stinger? It will cost me a switch location if I don't energize it with key on power. Not a deal breaker, but I probably won't go with it if I don't need it.

Do I need it?

 

[tdhanses]

Ok, so I'm gonna go with the fuse box....

I definitely want to be able to turn my lights and stereo on without having the key on. I'll put my stereo on a switch so it's memory won't drain power. Is there any real need for the Stinger? It will cost me a switch location if I don't energize it with key on power. Not a deal breaker, but I probably won't go with it if I don't need it.

Do I need it?

If you aren’t doing switched power on I don’t see why you would need it.

 

[sek-hunter]

Would I need the switched on power from the second battery to get the dual voltage meter to turn on and off that reads the voltage from the second battery?

I read the kit has a special wired socket for that but I’m not sure how it works.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tdhanses]

Not

Would I need the switched on power from the second battery to get the dual voltage meter to turn on and off that reads the voltage from the second battery?

I read the kit has a special wired socket for that but I’m not sure how it works.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

if you buy the true isolator kit, not sure about others but don’t see why you would, you will want a way to switch it on or off. The true isolator kit comes with a relay that only turns the voltmeter on when you switch power on.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

Ok, so I'm gonna go with the fuse box....

I definitely want to be able to turn my lights and stereo on without having the key on. I'll put my stereo on a switch so it's memory won't drain power. Is there any real need for the Stinger? It will cost me a switch location if I don't energize it with key on power. Not a deal breaker, but I probably won't go with it if I don't need it.

Do I need it?

I use an on/off/on switch to control a stinger that powers a fuse box. It’s convenient to have everything on that fuse block either key on or just on. It’s also nice to be able to turn it off when working on it.
the relay for the volt meter is negative relay. Keep that in mind.

 

[ODAMO]

Not really if you’ll have each aux power independently fused but have you considered it’s easier to just go with a fuse box, they aren’t that expensive, got mine for under $20 on Amazon. If you have any fuses blow you won’t have to dig in and look around, just pop the cover and replace.

It really is easy to wire up the second battery and add the fuse box. I also did a bus bar for the negative connections as there are a few to run just to get the second battery, winch etc wired in.

Now if you want direct power it may be easier to also have both pos and net bus bars but for the winch and any heavy draw items but I’d still want a fuse box.

View attachment 246790

Do you have your fuse panel hooked straight to the pos/neg of aux batt? Do you have a fuse in line that protects the whole panel?

 

[bumperm]

Do you have your fuse panel hooked straight to the pos/neg of aux batt? Do you have a fuse in line that protects the whole panel?

Thread is a year and a half old, but I'll see if I can explain. Many will have two fuse blocks, both are typically powered from the aux battery if one is installed. One fuse block will only be powered when the key is on (the key on power will close a relay that will then switch aux power on to that fuse block). The other fuse block will often be smaller, and will often be powered all the time or will have a panel Aux switch to switch a relay to power it.

The power from the battery to the relay will sometimes be fused, but that fuse is intended to protect only the heavy wire from the battery to the fuse block, as the individual outputs from the fuse block will have their own smaller fuses. Again, the purpose of those smaller fuses is to protect the downstream wiring, where the wire, if unfused and physically damaged, could potentially cause more serious damage, fire etc.

 

[Scoop]

The options you are deciding between are, collectively, not expensive. Do them all.

Fuse box or hot busbar? Both. Just make sure anything powered from an always hot busbar is individually fused.

Stinger? Yes, but get a Cole Hersee marine rated relay if you are in a cold climate. Wire your fuse box off of here.

Key on or not? Both. The club store sells a DPDT switch that lets you change, with a press of the switch, if your accessories run key-on OR key-off.

Doing things this way is NOT expensive but gives you the best of both worlds with the flip of a switch.

 

[ODAMO]

Thread is a year and a half old, but I'll see if I can explain. Many will have two fuse blocks, both are typically powered from the aux battery if one is installed. One fuse block will only be powered when the key is on (the key on power will close a relay that will then switch aux power on to that fuse block). The other fuse block will often be smaller, and will often be powered all the time or will have a panel Aux switch to switch a relay to power it.

The power from the battery to the relay will sometimes be fused, but that fuse is intended to protect only the heavy wire from the battery to the fuse block, as the individual outputs from the fuse block will have their own smaller fuses. Again, the purpose of those smaller fuses is to protect the downstream wiring, where the wire, if unfused and physically damaged, could potentially cause more serious damage, fire etc.

Thanks for the info. I'm just gonna keep it simple with small fuse panel and I like your idea of a switch and relay to power it.

 

[ODAMO]

The options you are deciding between are, collectively, not expensive. Do them all.

Fuse box or hot busbar? Both. Just make sure anything powered from an always hot busbar is individually fused.

Stinger? Yes, but get a Cole Hersee marine rated relay if you are in a cold climate. Wire your fuse box off of here.

Key on or not? Both. The club store sells a DPDT switch that lets you change, with a press of the switch, if your accessories run key-on OR key-off.

Doing things this way is NOT expensive but gives you the best of both worlds with the flip of a switch.

At this point it's not the cost but my electrical prowess that needs bolstering....LOL
But right now my electrical needs are small. In the future I will add a second batt to handle more stuff.

 

[Scoop]

At this point it's not the cost but my electrical prowess that needs bolstering....LOL
But right now my electrical needs are small. In the future I will add a second batt to handle more stuff.

Lol. Honestly, you'll gain the knowledge for this level of DC stuff very quickly.

Didn't realize you didn't have a 2nd battery. IMHO, it is better to do a little work now vs retrofitting a bunch of stuff you already did when you finally decide to add that AUX battery and isolator.

 

[GovtMule]

Lol. Honestly, you'll gain the knowledge for this level of DC stuff very quickly.

Didn't realize you didn't have a 2nd battery. IMHO, it is better to do a little work now vs retrofitting a bunch of stuff you already did when you finally decide to add that AUX battery and isolator.

I realize I could spend hours searching and might find what I need, but do you happen to know where a simple (idiot proof for someone like me) chart, sketch, description, etc that will show me how to add this stuff. I’m not even sure what all I need. Like you said it’s easier to do on the front end so I’d rather do it and do it right. A simple switched fuse block for me to power lights. I’ve got my winch installed already with the switched power coming from the Acc fuse, but as I add more I want it right. I got the switch power trigger from the store, and a developmental harness for the 3 dead switches in my 22 deluxe. Just want to do it right the first time.

 

[bumperm]

As Scoop said.

Also IMO, an Aux battery is a really good idea if you have a winch. Rather than powering the winch from the main, better to have it on the Aux. Reason for this is a typical winch will pull a lot of current, as much as 200 amps or so, near full load (even winding in a slack line is something like 30 amps IIRC). If you're in a recovery situation where you can't run the engine (for the < 50 amps the alternator can pitch in and help), it won't take long before you'll run out of main battery oomph and the ability to start the motor once you get recovered. An aux battery is good insurance.

 

[CID]

I realize I could spend hours searching and might find what I need, but do you happen to know where a simple (idiot proof for someone like me) chart, sketch, description, etc that will show me how to add this stuff. I’m not even sure what all I need. Like you said it’s easier to do on the front end so I’d rather do it and do it right. A simple switched fuse block for me to power lights. I’ve got my winch installed already with the switched power coming from the Acc fuse, but as I add more I want it right. I got the switch power trigger from the store, and a developmental harness for the 3 dead switches in my 22 deluxe. Just want to do it right the first time.

Here are a few drawings I've saved -
Basic True Isolator wiring -

Simplest add-on of stinger + control switch and fuse block -

Thanks to Rubin for his drawing. Fuse blocks + relay assemblies are readily available it that's your preference.

IIRC John79042 is an electrical engineer so his is a bit more involved. Don't let all the lines freak you out, each circuit alone, isn't complicated.

 

[Scoop]

Also, don't worry about all the relays. Low draw items don't need them.