P1000 Club Store fuse block question

[db682]

I'm about done with my install. I'd did automotive electronics and custom fab for about 5 yrs as a teenager so I thought this would be a piece of cake. Now I'm stumped. Fuse block is connected to a stinger type 80 amp relay. Stinger comes off True isolator. With key off all voltage after stinger drops to zero as planned. With key on all voltages after stinger spike to about 13.8v and carry through the fused path in the block at the same voltage as should be. When I pulled the fuse instead of dropping to zero it just drops to around 11v after the empty fuse slot. Is my fuse block bad or did I do something wrong?

 

[Admin]

 

[db682]

The bright one has a fuse in the dim one doesn't.

 

[Hondasxs]

Welcome to the forum.
Honestly, I'm not really sure. Your layout looks correct for the most part.
Not much inside to go wrong with a fuse box.
Several screws on the back will get you inside for a closer look.

I might try replicating this issue over the weekend, but I doubt it would yield the same from a workbench-type setup.

 

[Mark in Northern Iowa]

Howdy and welcome from Northern Iowa
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It looks like he has the LED fuse block that lights when a fuse blows.
Hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in, but if you take it apart, there are resistors underneath that connect, so there is always lower voltage to light the little light, no amps to run anything.
Or do I have that backward, crap I'll do some more digging, I read it somewhere.
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Edit to add from another source
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"You may get voltage across the circuit even with no fuse in place, that's because the fuse box has its own light circuit, the light circuit has resistance, so it displays some voltage. So if you are extremely power-sensitive, be aware, this is the normal situation."
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I have read where an owner cut all that out and just made it into a straight fuse block, but no lights come on when a fuse is blown.
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I left mine as yours is, and everything works fine.
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Have a good day

 

[Hondasxs]

Thanks for the info Mark.
I'm aware of the resistors. I guess that could be it.

 

[db682]

Thanks for the info Mark and Honda. I just ripped it out and will run a couple test. I just didn't want to fry an amp or burn up a bunch of wiring. The broken fuse light does come on when I connect an LED to the unfused terminal. The LED burns dim and has almost no amp draw so that makes sense. I was going to post a new build post once complete so I'll keep you updated.