P1000 Bus Bar vs. Fuse Block?

GovtMule

GovtMule

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I think I can handle that! Thanks.

I’m not above getting the supplies and showing up at an event with a load of bribery beer in hopes that someone (that’s competent and confident in what they are doing) would help me knock it out though!

I can do a whole lot of things…but anything more than basic wiring on the electrical side makes me question my skills.
 
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bumperm

bumperm

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Also, don't worry about all the relays. Low draw items don't need them.
Generally, the rocker switches are "rated" at 20 amps, but for most of 'em, that's a bit of a stretch. Probably better to use a relay if current will be more than about 10 amps. If you're adding a big light bar, or other high current draw item, there's a couple of advantages in using a Bosch 505 type relay: You don't have to run heavier gauge wiring to and from the panel switch, and the wiring run to the light is then shorter so there's not so much wiring voltage loss. BTW, the advertised wattage rating from most of the light bars is a "marketing race". When doing the math, my 54" light bar, from the ad specs, would have pulled 24 amps. Actual measured current draw at 13.3 volts was only 16 amps.
 
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WagginTail

WagginTail

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Stinger? Yes, but get a Cole Hersee marine rated relay if you are in a cold climate.
Highly recommend this even if someone isn't in a cold climate. I live in SC about a hour south of Charlotte, NC. I had 2 Stinger brand relays fail. First one basically fell apart. The 2nd just quit working
 
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ODAMO

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Also, don't worry about all the relays. Low draw items don't need them.
After looking at the schematics I think i just hurt myself.
The schematic in the service manual made smoke come out of my ears.
 
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Scoop

Scoop

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Generally, the rocker switches are "rated" at 20 amps, but for most of 'em, that's a bit of a stretch. Probably better to use a relay if current will be more than about 10 amps.
Agreed. That's why I said, 'low draw', @bumperm -- I don't consider 10A+ low draw.
 
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