Has anyone used a continuous duty solenoid to hook up an aux battery? Any reason why not?
Neohio
Beast of the East
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To connect the 2 batteries?
Or connect a fuse panel to aux battery?
That one has been well reviewed by members on this site.
Stay away from the China stinger solenoids and their knock-offs. They tend to fail in cold temperatures and less than ideal environments.
Interested in the answer as well. I am working on adding an auxiliary battery and relay/fuse box and want the box to be powered up by either the key-on circuit or a master switch. I have looked at several different solenoids but haven't found one that has good reviews for continuous use. Most of them say they get hot with continuous use.
Hondasxs
Club Founder
Staff member
Yes, The one linked above can be used as a non auto switched Isolator or as a switch power source for the fuse box.
NOTE... People say you need a "stinger" relay.
This works the same as a "stinger" but of better quality.
Stinger is just a brand name.
NOTE... People say you need a "stinger" relay.
This works the same as a "stinger" but of better quality.
Stinger is just a brand name.
Plowboy1466
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
If you want to look into relays/solenoids, get on terminal supplies website. They've got a lot of different models. And lt's good stuff! Terminal Supply Company - Wire Terminal Connectors, Relays, Crimping Tools and Much More - Home
Yes, I'm sure people have, though that is probably not an ideal option. There's a general rule about "battery banks" (where you connect batteries in series for more voltage, or in parallel [as we're doing here] for more capacity). That rule is the batteries should ideally be the same brand, age, voltage, and amp hour capacity, in other words identical batteries. Of course in many applications that will not be workable or optimal.
Assuming the batteries are both 12 volt lead acid, the above is not a concern when "temporarily" connecting batteries in parallel . . . assuming you don't forget and leave them connected for extended periods. Thus, for many, the True battery isolator is a more practical solution for adding the second battery. It won't "forget" and leave them connected, while facilitating charging both with a maintenance charger etc.
Agreed. The reason I am looking at the continuous use solenoid is to power an auxiliary fuse/relay box off of the 2nd/auxiliary battery. I have a True isolator to connect the 2 batteries together. The purpose of the solenoid is to cut power to the fuse/relay box when the accessories are not in use to avoid any parasitic loss on the 2nd battery. I will use a low current master switch to energize the high current solenoid to power all of my accessories.
This solenoid relay , will do the job. I'm using a Bosch 75 amp relay for my accessory fuse block (not cause it's better, I just already had a few of them from another project). The relay is switched with "key-on" power, but one can also use an override switch too, if you want to power accessories when key-off. Alternately, some use manual switch to select accessories when key-off. There's no shortage of ways to wire things it seems!
Just my opinion…
Key on power to light up the LEDs on the switches, and a lead to the dual voltmeter.
Then a hot lead from the aux battery to the “Aux Battery” switch to energize your relay which in turn provides power to the aux fuse panel, powering the accessories of your choice, as well as the other side of the dual voltmeter.
Aux battery cables direct to winch contactor, not thru the relay.
Of course there’s an isolator in the mix, too.
Key on power to light up the LEDs on the switches, and a lead to the dual voltmeter.
Then a hot lead from the aux battery to the “Aux Battery” switch to energize your relay which in turn provides power to the aux fuse panel, powering the accessories of your choice, as well as the other side of the dual voltmeter.
Aux battery cables direct to winch contactor, not thru the relay.
Of course there’s an isolator in the mix, too.
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Neohio
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That is what I am wondering. Why use " True battery isolator " when a 250 amp continues duty solenoid that is ignition excited will do the same thing if all else is equal. Does the True isolator have other functions?
Last edited:
That is what I am wondering. Why use " True battery isolator " when a 250 amp continues duty solenoid that is ignition excited will do the same thing if all else is equal. Does the True isolator have other functions?If connecting batteries, these are your best option.
Electrical
store.hondasxs.com
Neohio
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I can't answer your question. Electrical Engineering is above my pay grade.
The True isolator and the "Stinger" type relay serve completely different functions in our sxs's, (note: Stinger is a brand name, not considered the best one to use, but has become synonymous with the "power switching" relay used here). Okay, one at a time:
The True isolator allows two 12 volt batteries, of dissimilar types or sizes, to be charged from the same engine electrical system or external plug-in charger. It also allows, to a degree, one battery to handle part of the load for the other. The True will isolate the two batteries at other times, so as to prevent one battery from discharging or overcharging the other. These functions are all done automatically.
The "Stinger" or other continuous duty relay, as mentioned, is a whole 'nother thing. It is typically used to power an auxiliary fuse/power block for accessories on the sxs. Most such accessories would typically be turned off and on with the ignition switch but will be powered by the aux or second battery. To accomplish this in the P1000, an ignition switched "source", such as the #5 Acc fuse, is used to provide power to the stinger relay. The stinger relay then connect the aux bat positive to the accessory fuse block to provide the power.
In layman’s terms, the isolator joins the two batteries when voltage is high, allowing the engine to charge the auxiliary battery as well as the main battery.
When voltage drops, such as when winching or running a high power subwoofer, the isolator will separate the two batteries to avoid depleting the ‘Main’ battery and leaving you with no crank power to start the engine.
That way when you’re out having fun and kill your battery, the Main battery can still get you started so you can drive home.
A relay will only disconnect the two batteries when voltage drops to the point where it can’t stay energized. Now both batteries are dead and you’re walking out.
When voltage drops, such as when winching or running a high power subwoofer, the isolator will separate the two batteries to avoid depleting the ‘Main’ battery and leaving you with no crank power to start the engine.
That way when you’re out having fun and kill your battery, the Main battery can still get you started so you can drive home.
A relay will only disconnect the two batteries when voltage drops to the point where it can’t stay energized. Now both batteries are dead and you’re walking out.
trigger
Old Ironsides
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Or just get a little jump pack and drive out.
Plowboy1466
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Possibly a switch to de-energize the solenoid when winching would eliminate that problem. This may be inconvenient for someone that is in the mud all the time and doing a lot of winching but that is not me.
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