P1000 Disappointed New Pioneer Owner

[CKaufmann]

Purchased a 2018 Pioneer 1000 5 about three weeks ago. Its been sitting in my garage ever since while I installed a roof, windshield and mounted a couple lights (haven’t wired anything at this point, just mounted them). Today was finally nice enough to get it out so I drove it on to my trailer and headed about an hour north to play around with it at some land we own. Just before loading it on the trailer it started rather cold. Turned over more times than I thought it should but, it had been three weeks since my demo at the dealership so I didn’t think anything of it. Got to the land, backed it off the trailer and let it idle while I loaded the back with some gear. Drove it in turf mode with out the seatbelt for a good 500’. Stopped the vehicle at my destination, let it idle very rough and then it just died. Tried to start it again and it turned over very sluggishly. Tried for about three more times before I realized that the battery was not going to get the job done. Buddy of mine had a jump pack so hooked it up, started right up… Great, good to go (but clearly worried in the back of my mind as that should not happen on a brand new UTV with 2 miles on it). Put it in gear and died immediately before even getting to reverse. Again and again this happened. It would start but only with the jump pack and then immediately die when I go to put it in gear. Finally had the idea to start it in Neutral and then put it in drive which did the trick. Let it run for a minute and then took off in turf mode again. Drove it a good half a mile down a gravel road and it seemed to run fine, hitting speeds near 40 mph. Came to a stop sign, let it idle in high gear while I adjusted the windshield and it dies. Just dies. Never got it to start again. Had to go retrieve my truck and trailer and push the effing thing back onto the trailer where it currently sits. Pretty frustrated at this point. Could it be battery, shift linkage or other? One thing I want to add is that I noticed a time or two that the gear would not engage when I put it into the appropriate gear. For example, from park to reverse, it would not engage until I moved the shift lever back to park and then to reverse again. Or park to reverse (nothing) to neutral and back to reverse in order for it to work in reverse. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[BWAF]

2 miles on it, straight the dealer if they can't fix it 1st time tell them you want a different one ! I have 16 400hrs 3000 miles not a problem one .

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

 

[DG Rider]

1000's do seem ultra sensative to voltage. A lot of them are running dual batteries to deal with accessories. Id charge it and b**** at the dealer if it doesn't hold a charge.

The 1000 gang will be along shortly to help...

 

[HondaTech]

Check under the drivers seat to be sure the regulator is plugged in, had an LE with that issue from another dealer.

The regulator will be a square box with fins, with 2 plugs. 1 will have 3 yellow wires and the other will have some red and green wires.

If that doesnt appear to be unplugged, then I'd take it back and let them look at it. Could also be a loose ground, but that hasn't been an issue here lately..

 

[Plumber32]

To the dealer for sure. But check to make sure the oil is correct. I'm guessing it's a bad ground. Or loose ect.

 

[Superthrill]

Bought mine brand new from the dealer and had to charge the battery overnight.
No problems since.

Shifting smoothed out on mine within a couple hundred miles.

I also believe these things have to sense oil pressure during crank before it will ac9 fire. If cold and setting for a long time, mine has to roll over a fee more times to fire up.

 

[jwfirebird]

would try tightening battery cables and charging it
batteries can be bad new too

 

[JTW]

They’ve pretty much covered it for the info we have..

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Keep it plugged into Battery Tender when not in use.
Gas additive if it sat around at the dealership.

 

[Dezrik]

Mine had to he jumped before I even could demo it. We only drove it about 10 feet and we were sold. Couldn't wait to get it home. Our first trip was 120 miles so I imagine the battery took a charge. Never been a problem since that day

 

[alloutdoors]

I can appreciate the frustration and hopefully, the dealer makes it better for you. You have great advice above and would echo many of the comments, and second the idea of putting on a battery maintainer and keeping a fuel additive in the unit, especially if not using it frequently or a chance of gas going stale.

 

[906UP]

These guys ^^^ nailed it, sounds like low bat voltage, my snowmobiles, all fuel injected 4 strokes, will act the same way when the battery is getting weak or low on voltage. Take it back to the dealer, explain the situation.

 

[CKaufmann]

Update... After 6 hours on the charger Sunday I took it out Monday and it acted just fine. Crazy how low voltage could affect so many different components. Thanks for all the replies and advice!

 

[tbaker]

So basically what everybody is saying these machines run off battery and it has to be a good battery to keep everything going

 

[CKaufmann]

So basically what everybody is saying these machines run off battery and it has to be a good battery to keep everything going

No wonder Honda has a nice little convenient spot for a second battery

 

[Neohio]

No wonder Honda has a nice little convenient spot for a second battery

Actually, the Honda heater kit is designed to go in that location. I think it is just a fluke that a battery fits there so nicely.

 

[Steve_Schuster]

I had a simular problem with my '18 LE. Took it to Turner Falls, OK and rode all day, everything was just fine. We stayed late to do a little night riding and after about ten minutes of running my headlights on high and a new 50" curved LED light bar on, it just died going up a small hill. I turned the lights off, put it in park and it started right up, shifted to high and it died again before I could get past reverse. It did that several times, seemed to be running a little hot, so we let it rest for 10-15 minutes. It then started and ran just fine, didn't die when I shifted it into high. I left my light bar off and kept headlights on low to limp back to camp. This was only my second time riding it since new, so I may have gotten a bad battery from the dealer. Between my first ride and this one I did have it hooked up to a battery tender. Sounds like I'll be doing the second battery thing soon, the small stock battery can't seem to handle additional accessories.

 

[ohanacreek]

I had a simular problem with my '18 LE. Took it to Turner Falls, OK and rode all day, everything was just fine. We stayed late to do a little night riding and after about ten minutes of running my headlights on high and a new 50" curved LED light bar on, it just died going up a small hill. I turned the lights off, put it in park and it started right up, shifted to high and it died again before I could get past reverse. It did that several times, seemed to be running a little hot, so we let it rest for 10-15 minutes. It then started and ran just fine, didn't die when I shifted it into high. I left my light bar off and kept headlights on low to limp back to camp. This was only my second time riding it since new, so I may have gotten a bad battery from the dealer. Between my first ride and this one I did have it hooked up to a battery tender. Sounds like I'll be doing the second battery thing soon, the small stock battery can't seem to handle additional accessories.

That light bar draws too much probably, the 50"can be over 30amp draw, few are but can be. If you aren't keeping the revs high and the alternator generating the full output to keep things charged it will drop the voltage below 12v. Below 12v It was over heating because the clutch solenoid stops working well below 12v, and the clutch update allows for more cooling of the clutch by transferring heat to the coolant. You see an increase in coolant temp because the clutch is slipping and heat is being transferred to the coolant.

I would look at a second battery with an ISO, it keeps the main battery voltage from dropping below 12.7 and stops those kinds of issues.

I am not explaining why Honda did something just what is happening and how to help you from having that sort of issue. Yes its annoying but it is an easy fix if you're willing to do it.

I have a second electrical system powered sole off of the second battery (which has an ISO between it and the main battery) with lots of light, lots of sound, a bilge fan, ham radio, usb chargers and two winches and the secondary battery will run down (Optima H6) to around 10-11v when winching or a little below 12v when sitting with the stereo playing and the engine off, but I have had no issues with low voltage on the main battery, and no issues quickly charging the second battery back up once i have stopped winching or I turn off most of the accessories. I have a 20" 9amp draw rough country light bar, that I can still use and still recharge the second battery fairly quickly while riding.

 

[Steve_Schuster]

That light bar draws too much probably, the 50"can be over 30amp draw, few are but can be. If you aren't keeping the revs high and the alternator generating the full output to keep things charged it will drop the voltage below 12v. Below 12v It was over heating because the clutch solenoid stops working well below 12v, and the clutch update allows for more cooling of the clutch by transferring heat to the coolant. You see an increase in coolant temp because the clutch is slipping and heat is being transferred to the coolant.

I would look at a second battery with an ISO, it keeps the main battery voltage from dropping below 12.7 and stops those kinds of issues.

I am not explaining why Honda did something just what is happening and how to help you from having that sort of issue. Yes its annoying but it is an easy fix if you're willing to do it.

I have a second electrical system powered sole off of the second battery (which has an ISO between it and the main battery) with lots of light, lots of sound, a bilge fan, ham radio, usb chargers and two winches and the secondary battery will run down (Optima H6) to around 10-11v when winching or a little below 12v when sitting with the stereo playing and the engine off, but I have had no issues with low voltage on the main battery, and no issues quickly charging the second battery back up once i have stopped winching or I turn off most of the accessories. I have a 20" 9amp draw rough country light bar, that I can still use and still recharge the second battery fairly quickly while riding.

Thanks for the info! It was pretty much what I figured was going on, and I'll definatelybe doing the 2nd battery with an ISO.

 

[Ericthered]

Your battery never got charged at the dealership. Could be loose grounds, lose battery connections or a combination of both. That's what mine had. So much for dealer prep. Both these issues made me wonder if Honda was still making real machines like my old 3 wheelers. Charge your battery, then buy a manual so you can identify the 4 grounds. Tighten with a wrench. Just checking to see if it wiggles is not enough. Just so you know, after I did this (took 1 Hour) I have not had a single issue of any kind. It is just like today's car, the damn electronics will drive you crazy until it has good connections. Keep your Honda. Our friend has a new Polaris General with air conditioning. It has been in the shop for broken gears, snapped axles, leaks, fire and a split frame. I know because I followed them, and I had to tow them back 3 times. Once for 7 miles. Keep your Honda. It will get better.