P500 Doors and Back Window

[alloutdoors]

I have a front windshield and top but want doors and back window. So, I have found many door options for around $450 which I assume is the going rate but the back window varies tremendously from $60 in vinyl to $250 for hard, so I would appreciate thoughts/recommendations on doors and back windows.

 

[Admin]

 

[dls1966]

I found the doors for 450$from Honda I haven't found any hard shell doors but kolpin has a hard rear window for 169$ the fabric one from Honda was 139$
This is the place to find any options everyone is very helpful

 

[NitroxDiver]

I just put the tusk soft rear window on my machine. $68 from eBay. Very good quality and fit. I’ll see if I can find some pictures.

 

[KYhillbilly]

I have the Honda doors, picked up used for $150 from someone going to a bigger machine, bought Tusk rear window and very happy with the set up. I also added a 12 volt defroster to prevent front window fogging.

 

[HUCK]

I have Tusk vinyl back windows on my RZR (3yrs old now) and my Pioneer (2yrs) and they are holding up just great !

 

[JCart]

Another option is to purchase some 3mm thick UHMW sheeting and make a rear cab, use clear Lexan for window. If you’re handy it’s not that hard to do. I made my whole cab, when I bought mine in fall of ‘14 there were limited options for the P5 even through the dealership most stuff was back ordered. With basic hand tools for wood working UHMW is nice to work with, incrediably robust material. Over the years I bought a couple sheets usually 4’x10’ by 3mm thick and use it for a host of projects. It’s good stuff and stands the test of time and abuse.

Have pix in sig link for, roof, rear cab, front windshield (will be redesigned in V 2.0, I want it to tip out). Stix stoppers and skid plates all made in shade tree fashion in my yard with basic hand tools.

I’ve had fun doing it and cost wise, I’m gonna say significantly less (if you don’t factor your time), then buying premade.

Cheers,
j

 

[NitroxDiver]

Here are a couple pictures but nothing that shows the rear window in detail. My set up is a a Koplin hardcoat front, Honda soft top and Tusk soft rear window. The Tusk panel straps on tight with no gaps and extends all the way down to the bottom of the seat helping to seal the cabin. It’s not a tight seal at the bottom but it definitely helps with heat and dust. I think that with this set up if I can find a set of Honda doors it will work together nicely.

 

[alloutdoors]

I just put the tusk soft rear window on my machine. $68 from eBay. Very good quality and fit. I’ll see if I can find some pictures.

I did see that one and was curious of the quality, so you are happy with the purchase?

 

[alloutdoors]

I have the Honda doors, picked up used for $150 from someone going to a bigger machine, bought Tusk rear window and very happy with the set up. I also added a 12 volt defroster to prevent front window fogging.

What model 12v defroster did you get?

 

[alloutdoors]

Another option is to purchase some 3mm thick UHMW sheeting and make a rear cab, use clear Lexan for window. If you’re handy it’s not that hard to do. I made my whole cab, when I bought mine in fall of ‘14 there were limited options for the P5 even through the dealership most stuff was back ordered. With basic hand tools for wood working UHMW is nice to work with, incrediably robust material. Over the years I bought a couple sheets usually 4’x10’ by 3mm thick and use it for a host of projects. It’s good stuff and stands the test of time and abuse.

Have pix in sig link for, roof, rear cab, front windshield (will be redesigned in V 2.0, I want it to tip out). Stix stoppers and skid plates all made in shade tree fashion in my yard with basic hand tools.

I’ve had fun doing it and cost wise, I’m gonna say significantly less (if you don’t factor your time), then buying premade.

Cheers,
j

I'm handy and curious, were you able to fabricate doors as well?

 

[KYhillbilly]

What model 12v defroster did you get?

Just a cheap one from local Rural King, works well but may upgrade to a better one this hunting season. Keep thinking about putting in a heater but from I have read the P500 runs cold and they don't work well.

 

[KYhillbilly]

Bb5

• KYhillbilly
• Dec 27, 2017

 

[NitroxDiver]

I did see that one and was curious of the quality, so you are happy with the purchase?

Yes it’s very good quality.

 

[JCart]

I'm handy and curious, were you able to fabricate doors as well?

No not yet was chewing on 1/2 doors made from lighter aluminum tubing (frame) and using big head pop riverts to hold 3mm UHMW door skin, as I’ve used on cab. I’d like to design the door frames so they bulge out just a tad to provide more knee, thigh room. Then fab a top door section that slides into bottom tube frame. Cover the top door section with synthetic trucker tarp and sew in vinyl window section with vent opening. This tarp is what OTH truckers use to cover loads with. Easy to sew and it will actually bonds together with a specific glue and heat gun. I don’t have a welder yet so it’s a ways down the list. I like the module concepts where you can add e.g., 1/2 doors when nice weather then the tops as need be or none at all. Ive designed my rear cab (and window) to be held on with 6 Velcro straps and one bolt. It also tucks in under the rear stock plastic valences behind the seat to limit dust intrusion from behind the seat, it works awesome at keeping the dust from sucking in. One downside of a cab is that dust tends to pull in behind the cab low down, so I extended my air intake up behind cab. Pix in link.
Cheers
j