P1000 dual volt meter

[Jameshennigan]

For most accessories, we switch the Hot side of the circuit but with the dual VM we switch the Ground side and why the True Isolator comes with a relay, to control that ground. If you don't want to screw with the relay, you can put s simple toggle switch on the VM's ground lead to 'off' the VM.

my isolator didn’t not come with a relay. I didn’t order the kit just the tru isolator. How does this sound. I have stinger relay and fuse block on hand to install. I am waiting for the aux battery terminal adapters. Should be here this week. I Also have the key on power harness Hooked up to my winch. I am going to move the key on power from winch to the stinger. Run all accessories off the fuse block. Can I leave the volt meter positives hooked to tru isolator and run the ground to the stinger. Then volt meter turns on when the stinger is activated by the key on ignition.

 

[Admin]

 

[CID]

my isolator didn’t not come with a relay. I didn’t order the kit just the tru isolator. How does this sound. I have stinger relay and fuse block on hand to install. I am waiting for the aux battery terminal adapters. Should be here this week. I Also have the key on power harness Hooked up to my winch. I am going to move the key on power from winch to the stinger. Run all accessories off the fuse block. Can I leave the volt meter positives hooked to tru isolator and run the ground to the stinger. Then volt meter turns on when the stinger is activated by the key on ignition.

I don't think so, the stinger is controlling the 'hot' side, it isn't switching Ground. Since we're connecting the VM directly to the True isolator (both sides of which are always Hot), we need to switch the Ground On and Off to control the VM. Someone more familiar with our electrics will have to comment on the best way to do this, I'd just put a simple toggle switch on the ground lead but it wouldn't be key controlled, the advantage of the relay.

 

[TripleB]

I don't think so, the stinger is controlling the 'hot' side, it isn't switching Ground. Since we're connecting the VM directly to the True isolator (both sides of which are always Hot), we need to switch the Ground On and Off to control the VM. Someone more familiar with our electrics will have to comment on the best way to do this, I'd just put a simple toggle switch on the ground lead but it wouldn't be key controlled, the advantage of the relay.

X2 on the toggle switch. That's how I had my dual volt meter hooked up for about 10 months. I was a dumbass and never realized the kit had the relay, until I was hooking up the same kit on a different machine. I'm using the relay now.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

my isolator didn’t not come with a relay. I didn’t order the kit just the tru isolator. How does this sound. I have stinger relay and fuse block on hand to install. I am waiting for the aux battery terminal adapters. Should be here this week. I Also have the key on power harness Hooked up to my winch. I am going to move the key on power from winch to the stinger. Run all accessories off the fuse block. Can I leave the volt meter positives hooked to tru isolator and run the ground to the stinger. Then volt meter turns on when the stinger is activated by the key on ignition.

Not sure if that would work or not. Eziest thing to do would be to go to autozone or eBay and pic up a ground relay then hook it into your fuse box then run the ground to the meter.

 

[Jameshennigan]

Appreciate All the advice

 

[Smitty335]

Not sure if that would work or not. Eziest thing to do would be to go to autozone or eBay and pic up a ground relay then hook it into your fuse box then run the ground to the meter.

You guys confuse the hades out of me with all these relays, I only have one for my winch, the winch and all the other stuff run off a secondary battery vie of a fuse panel?

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

You guys confuse the hades out of me with all these relays, I only have one for my winch, the winch and all the other stuff run off a secondary battery vie of a fuse panel?

I agree
Keep it simple. It's a 12 volt gauge.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

You guys confuse the hades out of me with all these relays, I only have one for my winch, the winch and all the other stuff run off a secondary battery vie of a fuse panel?

I have a solenoid on my winch but no relay. The volt meter is simple you can run it with a manual switch for ground. A relay for ground or leave it on 24/7. The relay is simple a hot and ground to the fuse box and one green to back of meter.

 

[Haldog77]

Oh my, I have 8 relays that I have added not counting the Tru isolator relay. Relays are the safest way to not overload wires. Fuses on everything, and sometimes even fuses on grounds. My CB radio and my Ham radio came with both red and black wires fused. At first I was scared of relays because I am not an electrician, but don't be like me. After a few relay installs it becomes no big deal. If you are confused about it just ask and I promise somebody on this forum can help. They helped me.

 

[Showmecamo]

For the on off on switch they will need to come from the battery. The fuse box won’t have any power until the switch tells the relay to make the connection and send power to the fuse box. The switch takes power from either the key on or the battery depending on the position of the switch and sends it to the stinger. That opens the relay and sends power to the fuse box. The stinger is basically a big switch that when powered sends power to the fuse box.

Well, i am finally getting close for a test run on this project. Work and family have slowed my progress! Two questions:
1. Does the hot wire that comes directly from the second battery to the on off on switch have a fuse OR is it fused through the switch to the stinger and therefore no fuse is needed?
2. What amp fuse did you use when you hooked up your relay from volt meter to the fuse box OR can you attach the hot from the relay to the primary post of the fuse box where your 6 gauge wire attaches?
So much appreciate the help! Trying to be thourogh as I really do not want to fry anything!!!!!!

 

[Hillbillytnt]

Well, i am finally getting close for a test run on this project. Work and family have slowed my progress! Two questions:
1. Does the hot wire that comes directly from the second battery to the on off on switch have a fuse OR is it fused through the switch to the stinger and therefore no fuse is needed?
2. What amp fuse did you use when you hooked up your relay from volt meter to the fuse box OR can you attach the hot from the relay to the primary post of the fuse box where your 6 gauge wire attaches?
So much appreciate the help! Trying to be thourogh as I really do not want to fry anything!!!!!!

I didn’t put a fuse in the line from my battery to on/off/ on. I guess you could but I didn’t. Prob wouldn’t hurt to put a inline 5 amp in there if you want. The meter I would run through a spot on the 2nd fuse box and give it a 3 or 5. Think I put a 5 on mine.

 

[Showmecamo]

You know way more about this than I do, but I am guessing you really do not need a fuse bterween the 2nd battery and the on/off/on switch since the switch itself is a 20 amp switch and I am using 14 gauge wire. On the second questiion, I will also use a 5 amp fuse from the hot/red volt meter relay!
I cannot thank you enough! I hope to finish up for a trial run in a week or so if work and the "honey do list" does not get in my way! Hopefully, things will go smoothly! I will let you know how it turns out!
I would really like to buy you a few cold ones for all your help! If you ever get up to the St. Louis area let me know!!!

 

[Hillbillytnt]

You know way more about this than I do, but I am guessing you really do not need a fuse bterween the 2nd battery and the on/off/on switch since the switch itself is a 20 amp switch and I am using 14 gauge wire. On the second questiion, I will also use a 5 amp fuse from the hot/red volt meter relay!
I cannot thank you enough! I hope to finish up for a trial run in a week or so if work and the "honey do list" does not get in my way! Hopefully, things will go smoothly! I will let you know how it turns out!
I would really like to buy you a few cold ones for all your help! If you ever get up to the St. Louis area let me know!!!

I’m no expert. This is just how I did mine and it works well. There are a lot of variations on here as well. All the info is here it just takes a few searches and a lot of reading. There is always room for improvement. Even your ? About the in-line fuse for the wire from the battery makes me think maybe I should’ve put one in ther. It can’t hurt and I know I have one laying around somewhere. I may put one in there the next time I’m hooking something up. Let us know how it goes.

 

[Showmecamo]

That is all I need to hear....."it is how you did yours and it works well." Yes, there are different versions out there and that is what gets confusing, as you read and re-read and things start to blend together! I have seen many frustrated comments from many members. I certainly would not recommed rushing into this project. There is a lot to think through and plan out, at least for the DIY guy like me!
I like your idea of putting an in-line fuse between the 2nd battery and the on/off/on switch (will tap in were the 2nd battery connects to the Stinger and then go up to the switch). Like you mentioned...it cannot hurt. I guess I will use a 15 amp fuse with 14 guage wire???
Thanks again for your feedback and I will let you know the results!!! I am hoping to finish-up in the next week or so!!!

 

[Hillbillytnt]

That is all I need to hear....."it is how you did yours and it works well." Yes, there are different versions out there and that is what gets confusing, as you read and re-read and things start to blend together! I have seen many frustrated comments from many members. I certainly would not recommed rushing into this project. There is a lot to think through and plan out, at least for the DIY guy like me!
I like your idea of putting an in-line fuse between the 2nd battery and the on/off/on switch (will tap in were the 2nd battery connects to the Stinger and then go up to the switch). Like you mentioned...it cannot hurt. I guess I will use a 15 amp fuse with 14 guage wire???
Thanks again for your feedback and I will let you know the results!!! I am hoping to finish-up in the next week or so!!!

That is all I need to hear....."it is how you did yours and it works well." Yes, there are different versions out there and that is what gets confusing, as you read and re-read and things start to blend together! I have seen many frustrated comments from many members. I certainly would not recommed rushing into this project. There is a lot to think through and plan out, at least for the DIY guy like me!
I like your idea of putting an in-line fuse between the 2nd battery and the on/off/on switch (will tap in were the 2nd battery connects to the Stinger and then go up to the switch). Like you mentioned...it cannot hurt. I guess I will use a 15 amp fuse with 14 guage wire???
Thanks again for your feedback and I will let you know the results!!! I am hoping to finish-up in the next week or so!!!

Put the inline fuse in between the 2nd battery and the switch. Then the switch will have a fuse on both power sources coming in. I wouldn’t put anything in between switch and line to stinger.

 

[Showmecamo]

Put the inline fuse in between the 2nd battery and the switch. Then the switch will have a fuse on both power sources coming in. I wouldn’t put anything in between switch and line to stinger.

I was going to tap into the 2nd battery where my 6 gauge cable branches off of the battery and goes down to the stinger (not the side of the stinger that goes to the fuse box) then run it up to the switch. It is difficult the way I have it set up to tap into the 2nd battery right on the positive post, but I guess I can if you think it will make a difference??? I just thought that since I would be on the front side of the stinger where the 6 gauge cable comes from the battery I would be good?
Thanks for your input!!!

 

[Hillbillytnt]

I was going to tap into the 2nd battery where my 6 gauge cable branches off of the battery and goes down to the stinger (not the side of the stinger that goes to the fuse box) then run it up to the switch. It is difficult the way I have it set up to tap into the 2nd battery right on the positive post, but I guess I can if you think it will make a difference??? I just thought that since I would be on the front side of the stinger where the 6 gauge cable comes from the battery I would be good?
Thanks for your input!!!

Ya that sounds rt. That side would be the same as hooking to the battery terminal.

 

[Showmecamo]

Ya that sounds rt. That side would be the same as hooking to the battery terminal.

Appreciate it!!! I like the idea of putting in the in-line fuse. Hope to have things wrapped up in a week. Will let you know the results!!!

 

[Showmecamo]

Well I am happy to report that I have eveything up and running!!! I could not have done the dual system without your help and input!!! I am so appreciative and thank you many times over for the help!!!

 

[Showmecamo]

Appreciate it!!! I like the idea of putting in the in-line fuse. Hope to have things wrapped up in a week. Will let you know the results!!!

Well I am happy to report that I have eveything up and running!!! I could not have done the dual system without your help and input!!! I am so appreciative and thank you many times over for the help!!!