P1000 Electrical Q’s and Hopefully Great Answers

[Spoonbill]

I am a complete novice with regards to installing anything electrical,, but I want my accessories to work 1) safely & 2) Flawlessly as long as I own the P1K5 Deluxe. I have relatively few accessories; currently all are LED with the exception of the winch and no huge 40-50” light bars or fancy stereo systems. This is a Hunting and Farm vehicle first and last. For some reason, most of not all of the LED equipment already has relays which wold amount to four or more items worth replays further compromising space under the hood. My preference would be for a single relay in combination with a separate key on fuse box for power distribution. I will replace the supplied rocker switches(6) with 5 Poles OTRATTW (dual switch lights ). In essence, I need some help in hooking all this up the safest and most efficient way possible. I understand I need to daisy chain the six rocker switches (+ and - separately of course. I also understand the switch background lights should be paired with the dash lights (?) but don’t have a clue about searching for that. Further to this dilemma is how to spec.and install the relay, locate the “Key On” hot wire to fire up the replay, etc.

If there are some excellent links here or YouTube please advise as I don’t want to waste anyone’s time.

 

[Admin]

 

[Hillbillytnt]

I am a complete novice with regards to installing anything electrical,, but I want my accessories to work 1) safely & 2) Flawlessly as long as I own the P1K5 Deluxe. I have relatively few accessories; currently all are LED with the exception of the winch and no huge 40-50” light bars or fancy stereo systems. This is a Hunting and Farm vehicle first and last. For some reason, most of not all of the LED equipment already has relays which wold amount to four or more items worth replays further compromising space under the hood. My preference would be for a single relay in combination with a separate key on fuse box for power distribution. I will replace the supplied rocker switches(6) with 5 Poles OTRATTW (dual switch lights ). In essence, I need some help in hooking all this up the safest and most efficient way possible. I understand I need to daisy chain the six rocker switches (+ and - separately of course. I also understand the switch background lights should be paired with the dash lights (?) but don’t have a clue about searching for that. Further to this dilemma is how to spec.and install the relay, locate the “Key On” hot wire to fire up the replay, etc.

If there are some excellent links here or YouTube please advise as I don’t want to waste anyone’s time.

If your a novice then start with the key on harness from the club store. It’s clean it’s ez and it works. You can get key on power with a fuse tap or something else to a hot wire. Just search key on and you will find the rt one quickly. You can use the key on to control a fuse box if you run it through a stinger or other big relay.

 

[Spoonbill]

If your a novice then start with the key on harness from the club store. It’s clean it’s ez and it works. You can get key on power with a fuse tap or something else to a hot wire. Just search key on and you will find the rt one quickly. You can use the key on to control a fuse box if you run it through a stinger or other big relay.

Thanks for your quick reply.
Can you advise where I can buy this "Stinger" or the Type of "Big Relay" you are describing

 

[Hillbillytnt]

I’m not an expert either so just double check any advice I give. If all you want is a controllable fuse box then all you need is the fuse box and a relay to control it. I use an 80 amp relay stinger. Just check amazon. Some guys in colder climates I think prefer something else. I’m running a second battery so all of this is hooked to it. Ground the fuse box. Run a cable from your hot source to stinger then out to fuse box. The small terminals on the stinger are a ground and a hot from whatever u decide. You need to decide between key on Switched or a on/off/on switch that will give you both. If you go key in then you don’t need aswitch.

 

[Spoonbill]

I’m not an expert either so just double check any advice I give. If all you want is a controllable fuse box then all you need is the fuse box and a relay to control it. I use an 80 amp relay stinger. Just check amazon. Some guys in colder climates I think prefer something else. I’m running a second battery so all of this is hooked to it. Ground the fuse box. Run a cable from your hot source to stinger then out to fuse box. The small terminals on the stinger are a ground and a hot from whatever u decide. You need to decide between key on Switched or a on/off/on switch that will give you both. If you go key in then you don’t need aswitch.

What do you recommend as a hot source? This has been the most pivotal question plaguing me since the beginning in that if I pull off the aux white/black wire coming off the existing fuse panel vetting else appears to be limited by that 15 amp fuse (?). I believe my current set of accy lights would draw less than 10; however, the extra item I might add in the future is a roof cooling fan as it get's hotter than the hinges of hell down at the lease in AL and AR.I think this would pull no more that 8 amps = 10 amp fuse.

 

[Spoonbill]

What do you recommend as a hot source? This has been the most pivotal question plaguing me since the beginning in that if I pull off the aux white/black wire coming off the existing fuse panel vetting else appears to be limited by that 15 amp fuse (?). I believe my current set of accy lights would draw less than 10; however, the extra item I might add in the future is a roof cooling fan as it get's hotter than the hinges of hell down at the lease in AL and AR.I think this would pull no more that 8 amps = 10 amp fuse.

One other item, have you located a good source to ground the fuse box??

 

[Spoonbill]

One other item, have you located a good source to ground the fuse box??

Is this the Stinger you were referring to?: Stinger SGP38 80-AMP Battery Isolator and Relay,BLACK

 

[RobSparre]

I don’t have specific answers to all of your requirements, but here is a thread that contains a video with a wiring diagram attachment and a full walk through for tapping into accessory power.

P1000 - Yet Another Pioneer 1000 Dual Battery Install - video

Greetings all - this is my first post - from West Chester, PA. Just joined a few weeks ago. Love seeing everyone and reading all of the great community knowledge! Just got our 2020 P1K-5 used with only 34 miles on it! The first thing I wanted to do was add the dual battery system for...

hondasxs.com

 

[RobSparre]

Here is the direct YouTube link

 

[Hillbillytnt]

What do you recommend as a hot source? This has been the most pivotal question plaguing me since the beginning in that if I pull off the aux white/black wire coming off the existing fuse panel vetting else appears to be limited by that 15 amp fuse (?). I believe my current set of accy lights would draw less than 10; however, the extra item I might add in the future is a roof cooling fan as it get's hotter than the hinges of hell down at the lease in AL and AR.I think this would pull no more that 8 amps = 10 amp fuse.

How do you want this to work. If you want it key on only = acc only work with key on. Or switched = acc only hot when switch is on. Or both. If it’s key on only you don’t need a switch if it’s switch controlled you don’t need a key on. If you want both you will need a 7 pin switch and a key on source. Decide that 1st. If you go key on your just using a small amount of juice to turn on/make connection through the stinger. Then every thing else is drawn through the 2nd fuse box so the original acc fuse and system won’t be over drawn. If you go with just a switch to control the stinger and fuse box with no key on. Your still just using a small amount of juice from battery through switch to stinger to make a bigger connection that will allow bigger draws from your fuse box.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

Is this the Stinger you were referring to?: Stinger SGP38 80-AMP Battery Isolator and Relay,BLACK

That’s it. It’s just a big switch that takes a little bit if juice to make a connection for bigger wires and higher electrical draws.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

One other item, have you located a good source to ground the fuse box??

One other item, have you located a good source to ground the fuse box??

That question is a bit harder. I have a second battery I used the ground wire Honda provided for the winch to hook straight to second battery then a short cable from that battery to fuse box. I’m guessing you used that to hook up your winch. You may just have to run a cable to battery from fuse box. You could ground it on the frame but I never have any luck with those.

 

[Spoonbill]

How do you want this to work. If you want it key on only = acc only work with key on. Or switched = acc only hot when switch is on. Or both. If it’s key on only you don’t need a switch if it’s switch controlled you don’t need a key on. If you want both you will need a 7 pin switch and a key on source. Decide that 1st. If you go key on your just using a small amount of juice to turn on/make connection through the stinger. Then every thing else is drawn through the 2nd fuse box so the original acc fuse and system won’t be over drawn. If you go with just a switch to control the stinger and fuse box with no key on. Your still just using a small amount of juice from battery through switch to stinger to make a bigger connection that will allow bigger draws from your fuse box.

PERFECT ROBERT, THANBK YOU

 

[Spoonbill]

That question is a bit harder. I have a second battery I used the ground wire Honda provided for the winch to hook straight to second battery then a short cable from that battery to fuse box. I’m guessing you used that to hook up your winch. You may just have to run a cable to battery from fuse box. You could ground it on the frame but I never have any luck with those.

I am completing the winch install as well this weekend and did note the extra ground cable. I’m going to run that to the second battery and then jump that to the Negative Bus so I wil have a common ground for all

 

[Spoonbill]

PERFECT ROBERT, THANBK YOU

Sorry about that TNT; I thought the post was from Robert.

I believe I will need some sort of Battery Terminal Extender as those side posts on the Mighty Max don’t allow for much leeeway in mounting cables. Any suggestions other than making them out of a thick piece of brass strap metal??

 

[Hillbillytnt]

Sorry about that TNT; I thought the post was from Robert.

I believe I will need some sort of Battery Terminal Extender as those side posts on the Mighty Max don’t allow for much leeeway in mounting cables. Any suggestions other than making them out of a thick piece of brass strap metal??

They make some brackets for the terminals. I’ve seen pics of those but I just used what was on it. Mines pretty crowded but it works.

 

[RobSparre]

Sorry about that TNT; I thought the post was from Robert.

I believe I will need some sort of Battery Terminal Extender as those side posts on the Mighty Max don’t allow for much leeeway in mounting cables. Any suggestions other than making them out of a thick piece of brass strap metal??

I use both positive and negative bus bars for this reason. Just run low gauge battery cables from the battery posts to the bus bars and never have to touch the battery terminals again. Everything runs to the bus bars. The video shows this.

 

[Spoonbill]

How do you want this to work. If you want it key on only = acc only work with key on. Or switched = acc only hot when switch is on. Or both. If it’s key on only you don’t need a switch if it’s switch controlled you don’t need a key on. If you want both you will need a 7 pin switch and a key on source. Decide that 1st. If you go key on your just using a small amount of juice to turn on/make connection through the stinger. Then every thing else is drawn through the 2nd fuse box so the original acc fuse and system won’t be over drawn. If you go with just a switch to control the stinger and fuse box with no key on. Your still just using a small amount of juice from battery through switch to stinger to make a bigger connection that will allow bigger draws from your fuse box.

Thank you kind sir for assisting with this. Can you advise a relay to work with the dual voltmeter?? my machine may sit idle for a much as two weeks at a time and I wouldn’t want to run the batteries down inadvertantly.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

My true battery kit came with meter and relay so I’m not sure of specs or model of the relay. I would think any small ground relay would work. Someone may come along here with a recommendation. You should be able to pick one up at auto zone eBay or Amazon. U just want something to break that ground when you turn the power off.

 

[Mudder]

Only thing I can add is to suggest a switched waterproof breaker for any high amp wire you might add for a winch, mounted close to the battery to protect downstream wiring. I like the switch to kill power when working on that circuit, and they make a variety of high amp ratings for winches. Cheap peace of mind as my wire run was above the skid plate and inaccessible, even though I used wire loom to protect from long term rubbing. But I kinda overkill on electrical safety.