P1000 Floor Panel Removal or Access to Cavity Under Floor???

HBarlow

HBarlow

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Sure wish I was in West Virginia and I could give you a hand. The belly pan will be held on with a bunch of 10mm headed bolts. You might be able to just drop the front few a get a good look. It is actually 2 pieces that can be split by taking 1 of the plastic push pins out. I never put the push pin back in and left mine in 2 separate pieces. The problem for me is getting under there to take the bolts out. When I change my oil I pull the belly pan off to get a full inspection but to make it easier to access I winch my rig up a big tree we have in my yard. Hope you can find what is making the sound but hopefully just a simple zip tie or something hitting the drive shaft. Good luck my friend.

Thanks for the additional details. I'm not going to do it myself. I have a handyman who will do it for me next week. I can't see well enough to do it. We'll lift the buggy up on jack stands so he can slide underneath and remove the fasteners.

After a long life of doing everything myself - carpentry, painting, roofing, plumbing, electrical and more, I've learned in my old age with poor vision to pay someone who knows how to do the job.
 
HBarlow

HBarlow

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Yeah, you’re probably right. Only thing I worry about is that one time he decides to go off road and gets into a pickle
I tried the local trails alone with the Talon I bought first and realized I could get myself in trouble very easily. I don't have anyone to ride with and a cell phone won't work in some areas. Those factors led to my decision to sell the Talon and stay off the trails.
 
Plowboy1466

Plowboy1466

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I tried the local trails alone with the Talon I bought first and realized I could get myself in trouble very easily. I don't have anyone to ride with and a cell phone won't work in some areas. Those factors led to my decision to sell the Talon and stay off the trails.
Not to be a dick, but why would someone that's been on this website for as long as you have still have the factory "skid plates"?
 
tjoreo

tjoreo

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Not to be a dick, but why would someone that's been on this website for as long as you have still have the factory "skid plates"?
Not to be a dick also, but some people don't beat the s*** out of the stuff they own. I have a 2018 and have never updated the skid plate on my rig. I live in a desert setting and drive old bulldozer roads and have never hit my belly pan. 3 years ago I bought the material to build it myself, and the only reason for that is for one location we would want to explore. We haven't made it there so, I haven't wasted the time or money to upgrade. The nice thing about this site is there are many different riding styles throughout the group. We drive on these desert gravel roads and rarely go over 20mph. Others I see ride their rigs with water over the windshield. Then there are the ones that need the upgraded belly pan in the first half mile they ride. I personally know Harvey and he is one that just enjoys riding his rig around his little community. He is older and likes showing off his cool pavement queen. Each there own.
 
HBarlow

HBarlow

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Problem found and resolved.

My "mechanic/handyman/lawn care guy" showed up this morning. I explained the symptoms, my suspicion of cause, and gave him a physical description. He grabbed some tools, slid under the machine, and dropped the bottom panel. The problem was immediately visible.

The Honda tech who installed the Inferno heater had done a good job of securing the heat ducts with heavy duty zip ties but the vertical portion of the duct running to the dash outlets had stretched enough to come in contact with the front axle driveshaft. A hole was worn in the duct but it had not wrapped around the driveshaft and caused serious destruction.

I don't value the dash outlets much, prefer using the seat frame outlets. Repairing the damaged duct with tape would not be effective and I don't want to go to the trouble of replacing that duct only to have it repeat the problem I have now so we eliminated the dash outlet duct. We cut out about 2' of duct to prevent it sagging and contacting the driveshaft again and zip tied the supply end tightly around the wiring harness to block air flow from that duct.

A quick test drive demonstrated the heater works fine using the floor outlets and the sound of the duct flapping against the metal pan as the driveshaft rotates is gone.

Not a 100% repair but a functional repair. Thanks to those who contributed information and advice.
 
Last edited:
Todd627

Todd627

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Problem found and resolved.

My "mechanic/handyman/lawn care guy showed up this morning. I explained the symptoms, my suspicion of cause, and gave him a physical description. He grabbed some tools, slid under the machine, and dropped the bottom panel. The problem was immediately visible.

The Honda tech who installed the Inferno heater had done a good job of securing the heat ducts with heavy duty zip ties but the vertical portion of the duct running to the dash outlets had stretched enough to come in contact with the front axle driveshaft. A hole was worn in the duct but it had wrapped around the driveshaft and caused serious destruction.

I don't value the dash outlets much, prefer using the seat frame outlets. Repairing the damaged duct with tape would not be effective and I don't want to go to the trouble of replacing that duct only to have it repeat the problem I have now so we eliminated the dash outlet duct. We cut out about 2' of duct to prevent it sagging and contacting the driveshaft again and zip tied the supply end tightly around the wiring harness to block air flow from that duct.

A quick test drive demonstrated the heater works fine using the floor outlets and the sound of the duct flapping against the metal pan as the driveshaft rotates is gone.

Not a 100% repair but a functional repair. Thanks to those who contributed information and advice.
Glad you got it all fixed up @HBarlow 👍🏼
 
Last edited:
HBarlow

HBarlow

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  1. 1000-3

  2. Talon X
Those of you who have Pioneer 1000s with a cab heater with the heater installed under the driver's seat and a duct running through the floor cavity to dash outlets may want to examine your dash heat duct.

The Inferno cab heater kit which I consider an excellent product includes a plastic flexible duct longer than necessary to pipe hot air to dash outlets. In my installation a little extra duct length was secured up behind the dash. Over time and use, the vertical section of plastic duct either stretched or the excess inches of duct simply worked it's way downward creating slack in the duct over the driveshaft, came in contact with the rotating shaft, and was damaged.

To prevent damage others might want to remove your front cover for access and pull the duct upward and secure it with zip ties so you don't experience the situation I did.
 
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HBarlow

HBarlow

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Jun 14, 2020
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Daniels, WV
Ownership

  1. 1000-3

  2. Talon X
Other than the work involved, you were pretty lucky. Thanks for the heads up.
Yes, had I driven it a while the duct probably would have been wrapped around the driveshaft and destroyed, destroyed the wiring harness, and possibly damaged the sub-transmission as @Vikes79 wrote.

I hope you're able to avoid damage like mine by inspecting and correcting it now.

There's nothing in the floor cavity to prevent the flexible heater ducts and wiring harness from coming in contact with the front axle driveshaft if the heater installer doesn't take special precautions to tightly secure those items.
 

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