P500 He’s dead Jim

[Tstover]

Temps in the 40’s today, sun is shining, I’m going for a ride! Turn the key and nothing. WTF!
Pulled the battery box cover off and throw the meter on the terminals, 0.00. This ain’t good.
Pulled the battery out and hooked up the Noco, nope doesn’t even recognize battery is connected. Try a second charger, same thing. Battery did raise to 1.5v on its own, so dig out the ancient Sears charger and hook that up for a few minutes, then back to the Noco which now recognizes the battery, charging as I type.

Has anyone had a battery just up and take a s***, or do you folks think I’ve got a parasitic drain? Only connection to the battery are the winch and a pigtail to power my heated clothing.

Oh, did connect a jump box to the battery cables with the battery out and it fired right up and everything was working as normal.

 

[Admin]

 

[Wallace]

Yep had a couple do that. Usually over 3 years old and not used regularly.

 

[Alan_Vander]

Temps in the 40’s today, sun is shining, I’m going for a ride! Turn the key and nothing. WTF!
Pulled the battery box cover off and throw the meter on the terminals, 0.00. This ain’t good.
Pulled the battery out and hooked up the Noco, nope doesn’t even recognize battery is connected. Try a second charger, same thing. Battery did raise to 1.5v on its own, so dig out the ancient Sears charger and hook that up for a few minutes, then back to the Noco which now recognizes the battery, charging as I type.

Has anyone had a battery just up and take a s***, or do you folks think I’ve got a parasitic drain? Only connection to the battery are the winch and a pigtail to power my heated clothing.

Oh, did connect a jump box to the battery cables with the battery out and it fired right up and everything was working as normal.

Remove the winch positive and grab a volt meter put the positive on the battery terminal and the negative on the winch cable. If you show voltage. Just change your selenoid switch. Not sure what winch you have but if the selenoid switch is the 4 post top with 3 slotted pieces on the side. For control they are cheap on amazon.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

 

[Tstover]

Remove the winch positive and grab a volt meter put the positive on the battery terminal and the negative on the winch cable. If you show voltage. Just change your selenoid switch. Not sure what winch you have but if the selenoid switch is the 4 post top with 3 slotted pieces on the side. For control they are cheap on amazon.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

I’ll check that, thanks. I did the down and dirty test of touching the cable to the battery post to see if I got any sparks and there were none.

 

[hoghead76]

Battery tinder works never had a problem
with battery for two year now

 

[Splorin]

Check everything over, but batteries will 'break' when they want to.

 

[Tstover]

I did the test that @Alan_Vander suggested and I do get 12 volts between the battery post and the cable running to the winch solenoid. I then disconnected the switch and still get 12 volts.

 

[KYhillbilly]

If your winch has a wireless remote it will drain you battery if it sets a long time. I put a cut out switch on the dash of mine to prevent that drain. I do not ride much from January to April(deer season to turkey season) and got tired of a dead or ruined battery.

 

[rickoshea]

my truck did that last november.extreme cold killed it.hooked up my smart charger to it and killed that too.ended up costing me well over $600 for a stupid ram specific battery and new charger,only one specific battery will work in it,i was lucky to get the last one my local NAPA had and even with the discount from buddies account it was still over $350.

 

[Tstover]

Got the battery fully charged and did some more testing. Connected the negative cable to the winch and used the switch to toggle the solenoid in both directions. I then completely removed the switch from the electrical system and did the voltmeter test with the positive cable and still show 12V. Next step is to try a new solenoid I guess.
FYI, this is the Smittybilt XRC3.0 winch.

 

[jamesh]

I think my stereo system has a parasitic draw on my Talon's battery and draws it down over a couple weeks. I could wire it to a switch, but a battery tender also works as a substitute. My P500 has been sitting for months and still started without any help from the tender. I feel like the 500s have weak starting in general and am surprised how long it can sit and still start.

 

[Fro]

My 1000-5 has drained the battery when sitting since day one. I just assume it’s the computer/fuel system has a constant draw. My fuel injected ‘05 King Quad does the same while a carburated Eiger will start after a month of sitting. I just keep battery tenders handy.

 

[Alan_Vander]

Got the battery fully charged and did some more testing. Connected the negative cable to the winch and used the switch to toggle the solenoid in both directions. I then completely removed the switch from the electrical system and did the voltmeter test with the positive cable and still show 12V. Next step is to try a new solenoid I guess.
FYI, this is the Smittybilt XRC3.0 winch.

Yeah its just a bad selenoid. Had the same thing happen on my 700 and my cj. Easy fix.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

 

[Tstover]

Well, after some more digging around I find the issue is not the switch or the solenoid, but something I can only blame on myself. The positive cable for the winch found its way over to rub on the side of the engines case, creating a short. Thankfully it wasn’t a “burn your buggy to the ground” short, but a “kill your battery and fix your s*** you dumbass” short.

A 30A breaker and more thoughtful wiring are in store for this week.

Pic of the issue:

 

[Splorin]

Good find Columbo!! I always look for things like that during thorough clean ups and maintenance. You can even find an OEM install that can cause a future headache. I pull the skid plate once a year nowadays during a good clean. Of course I don't find anything wrong but if I didn't pull it.....

 

[NTCPrezJB]

Well, after some more digging around I find the issue is not the switch or the solenoid, but something I can only blame on myself. The positive cable for the winch found its way over to rub on the side of the engines case, creating a short. Thankfully it wasn’t a “burn your buggy to the ground” short, but a “kill your battery and fix your s*** you dumbass” short.

A 30A breaker and more thoughtful wiring are in store for this week.

Pic of the issue:

View attachment 188032

I'm glad you found it before the machine went full polaris on you.

 

[Tstover]

Good find Columbo!! I always look for things like that during thorough clean ups and maintenance. You can even find an OEM install that can cause a future headache. I pull the skid plate once a year nowadays during a good clean. Of course I don't find anything wrong but if I didn't pull it.....

And I just pulled the skid plates a month or so ago.....

I'm glad you found it before the machine went full polaris on you.

And that’s exactly what I thought too!

 

[Mudder]

Another good reason I like the Busman switched circuit breaker on the 6 gauge running to the hood for all mods, easy to turn stuff off. And the OEM sub harness for key-on relay power.

 

[Todd627]

Another good reason I like the Busman switched circuit breaker on the 6 gauge running to the hood for all mods, easy to turn stuff off. And the OEM sub harness for key-on relay power.

X2 😎

 

[Tstover]

Another good reason I like the Busman switched circuit breaker on the 6 gauge running to the hood for all mods, easy to turn stuff off. And the OEM sub harness for key-on relay power.

Would you happen to have a link to what you have? All I'm seeing is 100 amp and up

EDIT: Found this: Amazon.com: Bussmann CB185-30 30 Type Iii Flush Mount Switchable/Manual High Amp Circuit Breaker, 30Vdc, One Per Box (1-Pack): Automotive

ANOTHER EDIT: Can you show me where you guys have yours mounted? Thanks!