P500 Help! Shifting Issues!

[Lightjet]

The guy I bought my 2017 P5 from put a 53% reduction, 12 oclock labs speedo healer and was running 33's. I changed back to stock gears and removed the 12 labs speed healer and am running 30"s. I have adjusted the clutch until Im blue in the face. I was finally able to run thru the gears in manual mode: N, R, 1, 2, 3, 4, & 5 but you either have to have the motor revved with high rpms between gears and slightly take your foot off gas when hitting the paddle shiftier between gears? I tried auto and it will not come out of 1st and the display goes from "D" to "-" (dash) . I have to turn it off then back on to get back to manual mode and even used the tool to physically change the gears. It was pretty tough to move. When I took off speedo healer and re-plugged sensor in, I used a little dielectric grease...could this have an effect? Reckon I put the auto shift together wrong? The fact that I can run through all the gears is a plus in my mind but hope I didn't mess anything up internally. I need it ALL to work correctly in manual AND auto. I have been trying to adjust the tension on the clutch with the adjustment screw. I think I have the clutch adjustment correct. I have taken battery loose, and re plugged the speedo repair and re programmed it still didn't work. Got any ideas? Kinda desperate ! ANY and ALL help will be appreciated!

 

[Admin]

 

[Russ989]

The guy I bought my 2017 P5 from put a 53% reduction, 12 oclock labs speedo healer and was running 33's. I changed back to stock gears and removed the 12 labs speed healer and am running 30"s. I have adjusted the clutch until Im blue in the face. I was finally able to run thru the gears in manual mode: N, R, 1, 2, 3, 4, & 5 but you either have to have the motor revved with high rpms between gears and slightly take your foot off gas when hitting the paddle shiftier between gears? I tried auto and it will not come out of 1st and the display goes from "D" to "-" (dash) . I have to turn it off then back on to get back to manual mode and even used the tool to physically change the gears. It was pretty tough to move. When I took off speedo healer and re-plugged sensor in, I used a little dielectric grease...could this have an effect? Reckon I put the auto shift together wrong? The fact that I can run through all the gears is a plus in my mind but hope I didn't mess anything up internally. I need it ALL to work correctly in manual AND auto. I have been trying to adjust the tension on the clutch with the adjustment screw. I think I have the clutch adjustment correct. I have taken battery loose, and re plugged the speedo repair and re programmed it still didn't work. Got any ideas? Kinda desperate ! ANY and ALL help will be appreciated!

Wow, where to start? Here is a video link for the clutch adjustment.

I don’t think the dielectric grease hurt anything. When I had my 500, I never let up to shift, even in manual. If I’m understanding you correctly, that’s the only way it will shift??
30’s are a load for that machine stock in my opinion considering I have 30’s on my 1000 and know they’re there. You may need to take it to the dealer and have them flash the ecm as well.

 

[Duckhunt]

What gears did you put in? 2015-16 were different gears than 2017+. It will make all the difference in the (-) code. 2015-16's had a 16 tooth final drive gear and 2017+ had a 22T. It might be possible yours originally had the other one from which just you put in?

And welcome to the club!

 

[Lightjet]

Hey Thanks for the welcome! Didn't know the gears were different was told they were all the same. Ill have to check. Gosh I sure hope not! Is there a work around if so?

 

[Duckhunt]

Put your speedodrd back in and set it to positive 37.5%. 16 (assuming you have) + 37.5% = 22T (what you should need). That should do it.

I think this is the instructions:

 

[Lightjet]

Hey Thanks for the welcome! Didn't know the gears were different was told they were all the same. Ill have to check. Gosh I sure hope not! Is there a work around if so?

Just checked part numbers and they are same for drive gear and basket Honda:
23120-HP0-A00
22100-HP0-A00

 

[Duckhunt]

That 23120-HP0-A00 is a 29T drive gear and 22100-HP0-A00 is a clutch cover. On my honda dealer site anyway.

 

[Lightjet]

Put your speedodrd back in and set it to positive 37.5%. 16 (assuming you have) + 37.5% = 22T (what you should need). That should do it.

I think this is the instructions:

I certainly try it but if Im going back to stock gearing should I have to run the healer?

 

[Duckhunt]

No you wouldn't if you got the correct stock gearing! Only thing I can think of outside bad clutch adjustment and it can't make a shift, nevertheless the speedo should still work.

 

[Lightjet]

That 23120-HP0-A00 is a 29T drive gear and 22100-HP0-A00 is a clutch cover. On my honda dealer site anyway.

These are the parts that I changed out. The guy i got them from puts these reductions in bikes all of the time. I just asked him which ones he sent. This is what he said: Primary's are the same and secondary in 15'-16' is 3% lower than 17'-20' but all interchange

 

[Lightjet]

No you wouldn't if you got the correct stock gearing! Only thing I can think of outside bad clutch adjustment and it can't make a shift, nevertheless the speedo should still work.

Probably going to try to put angle sensor and speed sensor and see if that helps. Ill do 12 labs if that doesn't get it. What are your thoughts on that?

 

[Duckhunt]

Just thought of something - you take the spacer out of the speed sensor when you put it back in? But I'd try the speedodrd first. Then you'd know you got the 16T gear and wouldn't need to spend another nickel if you didn't want to.

 

[Lightjet]

Spacer? the healer was a direct plug in.

 

[Duckhunt]

Spacer on the speed sensor, not speedodrd. There might not be one under the mounting bolt for the sensor, but if there was (moving sensor out), it has to be removed. If your speedo isn't erratic I'd disregard.

 

[Lightjet]

I believe that your thinking about the gears at the rear of the case that run directly under the speed sensor thus needing the space to clear the gears from rubbing the sensor? Correct? What I replaced was from the front of the motor behind the front cover.

 

[Duckhunt]

Yeah that's what I'm thinking. Didn't know they offered different primary gear reduction/increase. Most gear changes are the final gears. Hmmm, interesting.

 

[Lightjet]

 

[Lightjet]

Yeah that's what I'm thinking. Didn't know they offered different primary gear reduction/increase. Most gear changes are the final gears. Hmmm, interesting.

Man, Thanks for trying to help me either way two noggins is better than one in these situations. keep thinking we might come up with something together!

 

[Duckhunt]

No worries! Yeah only thing I can think of is figure out on paper stock final ratio in a gear (drive shaft rpm) and turn engine over 1 rpm in that gear and see if it matches? Wouldn't be tough. Unless you think it's in the clutch but correct me if I'm wrong it's peculiar to me it won't try to shift in auto and only high rpm manual. Could you find out if they messed with the final gears too?

 

[Lightjet]

No worries! Yeah only thing I can think of is figure out on paper stock final ratio in a gear (drive shaft rpm) and turn engine over 1 rpm in that gear and see if it matches? Wouldn't be tough. Unless you think it's in the clutch but correct me if I'm wrong it's peculiar to me it won't try to shift in auto and only high rpm manual. Could you find out if they messed with the final gears too?

It will shift but it requires higher rpms to shift. One time it went thru the gears fine the started bucking and down shifted on it's own the stayed in second and would not come out until I cut the bike off completely. Restarted the bike and went to manual again just to get it back to my garage and continue to trouble shoot