P1000 Help!! Tail lights not working

[DennyChapman]

My tail lights went out , i checked all fuses, all good.. any other ideas ?

 

[Admin]

 

[Adam490]

Have you tried twisting the wires around your tongue? There's a special emergency restart module wrapped in blue tape under the hood!

For real though, did you go in deep water? If not, did one of your accessories kill it?

 

[HBarlow]

Tail lights or stop lights? Big difference.

Tail lamps are running lights, switched by the key. Brake lamps are activated by pressing the brake pedal by a stop lamp switch.

As suggested above, playing submarine with a buggy is the first likely cause and owners adding electrical accessories is the second likely cause.

 

[DennyChapman]

I don’t go in water but i did have an amp blow my accessory fuse… but i replaced it.. so what do i check out now

 

[bumperm]

First, is it the taillights or the brake lights that are not functioning? If it's the taillights, do the headlights work?

There's a rule in troubleshooting electronics, "Check the easy things first". This means you will sometimes skip checking the things even if they are most likely the problem, if they are difficult to check. Check the less likely but easy things first. This means if you visually checked the fuses*, go ahead and replace them anyway (you can take one known good fuse and plug that in temporarily etc.).

Since your machine is newer, and there have been a few reporte instances, look for unplugged plugs in wiring harnesses.

After a decent DVOM, a tone probe can be handy for tracking wires and locating problems.

*The top surface of most plug-in automotive fuses have two small holes to access each side of the fuse element. You can put one lead of your VOM on ground and use the other to check voltage on each side of the fuse.

 

[ssims]

Mine did to, still can't figure it out, I have power at lights from switch but lights don't work ( odd that both LED's would go out at same time )

 

[Mark in Northern Iowa]

If you have, as you say, "power at the lights, but they do not work"
Check the ground wire going to the lights. Check your ground connections.
.
Buy yourself a power probe.
You can test for power, and you can add power.
You can test for ground, and you can add ground.
The better ones even show you voltage.
.
WOW, Amazon has a cheap one.

Amazon.com

.
Mine cost more than that.
.
Good Luck

 

[bumperm]

A cable tracer with toner probe, like this one, does everything a continuity tester does and a lot more! The "more" part is it allows non-contact tracing. You can clip the toner lead to a bare terminal or wire, then track the tone with the probe down a wiring harness (bundle of wires) etc. Once traced out and you've got a bundle of wires separated, you can ID the wire by placing the probe against the insulation, no need to strip or pierce the wire. the probe can also show you where the open or short is located, even through insulation etc. This track tone is $65.

track tone

If you don't have a DVOM, (digital volt meter), you should have one of those too. I have Flukes that cost a coupe of hundred, but for most purposes, the $5 meter from Harbor Fright will do (though I recommend spending $30+ on a better one on-line):

For $22 this one will do:

DVOM

 

[Broman]

2021 with 350 miles doing same thing got brake lights just no running lights got power to back for running light bench tested light and brake comes on but no running lights

 

[DennyChapman]

2021 with 350 miles doing same thing got brake lights just no running lights got power to back for running light bench tested light and brake comes on but no running lights

Same for me.. if you figure it out let me know and ill do the same

 

[Remington]

2021 with 350 miles doing same thing got brake lights just no running lights got power to back for running light bench tested light and brake comes on but no running lights

BROMAN!!!! C’mon man! Your from Michigan! One post no pics Of your machine!
Pics Or It Didnt Happen!

 

[Remington]

Same for me.. if you figure it out let me know and ill do the same

When u turn your parking lights on, have one of your taillights out and check for 12 vdc at the plug at the light. if you have 12vdc there, then its your light. if you dont, you have to trace that wire from that point back to see where the “brake” is. This is assuming you checked your fuses and there good?

 

[ssims]

So just picked my machine up from dealer after first service and to fix my taillight issue and was told Honda will not cover my lights because there is a light bar installed and since both lights stopped working I must have did it wrong anyone else dealing with this?

 

[bumperm]

So just picked my machine up from dealer after first service and to fix my taillight issue and was told Honda will not cover my lights because there is a light bar installed and since both lights stopped working I must have did it wrong anyone else dealing with this?

Did you tell this joker that you have measured DC power at the lights and they still don't work? And that other people have reported the same problem?

 

[HBarlow]

The Honda dealer is not very helpful to a customer but they are also not being unreasonable. It's reasonable to assume the addition of the accessory light bar is related to the simultaneous failure of taillamps. Reading between the lines you were probably told their labor to troubleshoot and repair and the cost of an unknown part would be your responsibility and you declined.

It's not a big deal. Troubleshooting 12 volt DC (direct current) electricity is very simple. All you need is a basic 12volt test lamp or multimeter. A test lamp is better if you're not knowledgeable of DC electricity

Start the machine and let it idle and turn on the lights. Start at the taillamps and measure voltage at the back of one of the lamps. Then work backward toward the source of 12 volt power moving to the back of the switch, the ignition switch, then continue through fuses or breakers ultimately back to the alternator and battery. When you find 12 volt power you have moved past the blown fuse, disconnected or broken wire, or ???. Somewhere in that chain you'll find a problem.

The simplest is a fuse. When work has been done it's reasonable to look for a mistake such as a forgotten wire, broken wire, or other human cause.

 

[bumperm]

Okay, maybe I misunderstood.

IF you measure 12 volts at the light, and the light does not function, then the problem is with the light itself - and, that problem could not have been caused by installation of the big lightbar or blowing fuses or whatever.

However, if you don't have voltage back at the light, then the dealer is correct, you could have caused the problem by improperly installing the big light bar, blowing fuses etc. etc.

Check for voltage back at the light when the light is supposed to be on.

If you have voltage there, then remove the light and bench test it. Including applying power to it reversed to see if they wired it backwards internally.

 

[ssims]

The Honda dealer is not very helpful to a customer but they are also not being unreasonable. It's reasonable to assume the addition of the accessory light bar is related to the simultaneous failure of taillamps. Reading between the lines you were probably told their labor to troubleshoot and repair and the cost of an unknown part would be your responsibility and you declined.

It's not a big deal. Troubleshooting 12 volt DC (direct current) electricity is very simple. All you need is a basic 12volt test lamp or multimeter. A test lamp is better if you're not knowledgeable of DC electricity

Start the machine and let it idle and turn on the lights. Start at the taillamps and measure voltage at the back of one of the lamps. Then work backward toward the source of 12 volt power moving to the back of the switch, the ignition switch, then continue through fuses or breakers ultimately back to the alternator and battery. When you find 12 volt power you have moved past the blown fuse, disconnected or broken wire, or ???. Somewhere in that chain you'll find a problem.

The simplest is a fuse. When work has been done it's reasonable to look for a mistake such as a forgotten wire, broken wire, or other human cause.

I have 12v at light that means no blown fuss or broken wires, the light bar is not wired to factory battery and also has a fuse on the power to light bar that has never blown and works correctly

 

[ssims]

Did you tell this joker that you have measured DC power at the lights and they still don't work? And that other people have reported the same problem?

Yes I did waiting for dealer to call back honda customer service said it would void warranty only if dealer told them the accessories caused the issue. Sounds like there passing the blame back and f

 

[HBarlow]

I have 12v at light that means no blown fuss or broken wires, the light bar is not wired to factory battery and also has a fuse on the power to light bar that has never blown and works correctly

Are you talking about running lights or stop lights?

Are you saying 12v volts is present at the lamp but it doesn't light? If hat's the case the ground (return) wire is broken or disconnected.

The body of our Pioneers is plastic so a return wire is required.

Has anyone disassembled the lamp(s) to ensure the correct bulb is installed, the bulb is good, and the bulb is correctly seated in the lamp socket?

 

[ssims]

Are you talking about running lights or stop lights?

Are you saying 12v volts is present at the lamp but it doesn't light? If hat's the case the ground (return) wire is broken or disconnected.

The body of our Pioneers is plastic so a return wire is required.

Has anyone disassembled the lamp(s) to ensure the correct bulb is installed, the bulb is good, and the bulb is correctly seated in the lamp socket?

Have good ground use the ground in the plug as meter ground and it shares ground with break lights witch work fine, and there are no bulbs in the 2021 it's LED's