Talon Honda/S&B Particle Separator Kit

1

1HasBeen

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I helped a friend install the Honda/S&B particle separator kit. The S&B is Talon specific, and Honda recommends their switch panel kit to make it plug and play. Well, not exactly. As soon as you get started it is clear the instructions are written around using a sub-harness which is labeled as "optional" and not included. We proceeded with the install, and after making all the connections not pertaining to the "optional" sub-harness we found we had power to the relay behind the switch panel, but no means to energize the relay to activate the panel. I called S&B, and they politely said, "we only make it, and don't know anything about Honda's install". There is a lead coming from the switch panel that is supposed to plug into the "optional" sub-harness, and the "optional" sub harness plugs into a lead on the main harness which feeds the 12V accessory plug in the dash. We ran a jumper from that main lead to the plug on the panel lead, and found it activated the relay, and the S&B turned on via the supplied switch. Since there is no means supplied in the kit, we nipped the plug off the lead from the panel, and spliced into the keyed 12V feeding the accessory plug. Everything now works.

Bottom Line:
Honda charges a bit of a premium for the S&B, and an exorbitant amount for the switch panel, then has the gall to want another $50 plus dollars for an "optional" harness, which is not optional at all, to be "plug and play". Highway robbery, IMHO. At the very least, they could have explained in the instructions that you'll have to supply keyed power via that lead, if you are not using the "optional" sub-harness. Rightfully, the "optional" sub-harness should be included with the panel, or the particle separator.

Hopefully this will save somebody some time and aggravation.
 
Last edited:
PaulF

PaulF

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I helped a friend install the Honda/S&B particle separator kit. The S&B is Talon specific, and Honda recommends their switch panel kit to make it plug and play. Well, not exactly. As soon as you get started it is clear the instructions are written around using a sub-harness which is labeled as "optional" and not included. We proceeded with the install, and after making all the connections not pertaining to the "optional" sub-harness we found we had power to the relay behind the switch panel, but no means to energize the relay to activate the panel. I called S&B, and they politely said, "we only make it, and don't know anything about Honda's install". There is a lead coming from the switch panel that is supposed to plug into the "optional" sub-harness, and the "optional" sub harness plugs into a lead on the main harness which feeds the 12V accessory plug in the dash. We ran a jumper from that main lead to the plug on the panel lead, and found it activated the relay, and the S&B turned on via the supplied switch. Since there is no means supplied in the kit, we nipped the plug off the lead from the panel, and spliced into the keyed 12V feeding the accessory plug. Everything now works.

Bottom Line:
Honda charges a bit of a premium for the S&B, and an exorbitant amount for the switch panel, then has the gall to want another $50 plus dollars for an "optional" harness, which is not optional at all to be "plug and play". Highway robbery, IMHO. At the very least, they could have explained in the instructions that you'll have to supply keyed power via that lead, if you are not using the "optional" sub-harness. Rightfully, the "optional" sub-harness should be included with the panel, or the particle separator.

Hopefully this will save somebody some time and aggravation.

When researching, I discovered the need for "optional" parts I thought were completely unnecessary and that is part of the reason I went with the unit that fits the Maverick 1000 Turbo and just mounted and wired it myself. Also wanted mine on the roof and exhausted out the side so I didn't have to hear it. I also wired mine so that it doesn't turn on until the engine is running. I bought the Maverick version because it had longer hoses but ended up hard piping it with aluminum wrapped in vinyl CF and silicone elbows for durability and it looks better to boot. Can barely hear it at idle and not at all once moving.

Works flawlessly. 250 miles in dusty conditions and the filter still looks brand new. My first filter lasted less than 200 miles. All in all, it turned out exactly how Honda/S&B "should have" done it (in my opinion)...

20191109 233008


20191109 233020


20191109 233034
 
1

1HasBeen

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Just a quick update/side note: After putting all the panels, etc., back together we took a quick test ride. The S&B fan noise is there, but pretty muted, BUT the intake noise is definitely much more pronounced. Some folks may find it annoying.
 
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D

DesertRatFamily

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Oct 3, 2018
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I just got a clean used 2021 Talon 1000R. I did some research on this site and decided I wanted to add a particle separator kit to my toy. I almost ha a Heart Attack looking at the prices. I decided to get the S&B unit and I found a deal on " Partzilla ". Everywhere else that I looked they wanted 499.00 plus tax and shipping. Partzilla sells them for 390.00 plus tax and shipping. They order it for their warehouse then once they get it they ship it to you. You may need to wait an extra week but their communication with you is very good. I'm 72 and pensioned so I need to bargain shop. All and all they save you about 125 to 150 dollars on the purchase depending on your states tax. For that much of a savings, I can wait an extra week. Hope this helps someone out. NOTE this does not include the Extra Honda wiring harness or the dash components.
 
NTCPrezJB

NTCPrezJB

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I just got a clean used 2021 Talon 1000R. I did some research on this site and decided I wanted to add a particle separator kit to my toy. I almost ha a Heart Attack looking at the prices. I decided to get the S&B unit and I found a deal on " Partzilla ". Everywhere else that I looked they wanted 499.00 plus tax and shipping. Partzilla sells them for 390.00 plus tax and shipping. They order it for their warehouse then once they get it they ship it to you. You may need to wait an extra week but their communication with you is very good. I'm 72 and pensioned so I need to bargain shop. All and all they save you about 125 to 150 dollars on the purchase depending on your states tax. For that much of a savings, I can wait an extra week. Hope this helps someone out. NOTE this does not include the Extra Honda wiring harness or the dash components.
Did you read up on the prefilter alternatives? I don’t have a dime in it either way but if I was looking to save money that is the route I would go personally.
 
Scoop

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906UP

906UP

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Get 10-80's kit, I had the S&B and it was garbage, took it off and put 10-80 ( @highpocket74 ) kit on, been on the same OEM filter ever since
 
highpocket74

highpocket74

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Get 10-80's kit, I had the S&B and it was garbage, took it off and put 10-80 ( @highpocket74 ) kit on, been on the same OEM filter ever since
Just a little info on the S&B filters...
I have seen test results of these air filters and they are not very good.
EDIT: S&B does not produce or provide a filter for the Talon. The air filter I was referring to is for the RZR 1000. Sorry for the confusion if I caused any.
 
Last edited:
Sandsurfer

Sandsurfer

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Just a little info on the S&B filters...
I have seen test results of these air filters and they are not very good.
This concerns me, what is the s&b not doing well with? I bought mine specifically because it was recommended by this forum a couple of years back.
 
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906UP

906UP

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This concerns me, what is the s&b not doing well with? I bought mine specifically because it was recommended by this forum a couple of years back.
At that time is was probably the best option, that was then. Now there are better options for half the costs.

The S&B(Honda Accessories)I put on mine helped but not nearly as well as advertised.
 
highpocket74

highpocket74

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I'm sure that the particle separator works fine, but their air filter is a very poor performer in tests.

Particle separators work by centrifugal force of spinning air at velocity to "sling" dirt out of the air. If you're not moving air quickly nothing is getting slung. That's basic physics. That's why separators work fantastically for racing applications at wide open throttle.
 
Sandsurfer

Sandsurfer

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I'm sure that the particle separator works fine, but their air filter is a very poor performer in tests.

Particle separators work by centrifugal force of spinning air at velocity to "sling" dirt out of the air. If you're not moving air quickly nothing is getting slung. That's basic physics. That's why separators work fantastically for racing applications at wide open throttle.
I appreciate the response. I have the particle separator and I run the oem honda air filter with it.
 
Scoop

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I appreciate the response. I have the particle separator and I run the oem honda air filter with it.
At one point in time, 8-track and cassette tapes were the best technology to deliver music to consumers, and AOL and CompuServe provided the best dial-up Internet access.

That was then, this is now. ;)
 
CID

CID

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@PaulF Comments? He removed his S&B, I think he got tired of the noise. He had it wired so the fan didn't come on until the engine started which I thought was a great idea. I don't remember if he has a back window or not.
 
D

Dankathy

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Few things to consider for your configuration. Rear window brings a lot of dust into the bed area. On my prior machine, I just removed the resonator and ran a 90 degree sweep up through the fender and put a uni on it. We do quite a few miles in heavy dust, I got tired of cleaning it every week or so. 500mi a week is common. Current machine has a s&b tucked up into the rear window, I get 3000-3500 miles on a filter. Works well for me, changing a filter every couple of months is ok. As always ymmv
 
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