P1000 How to drive a P1k?

3

338fedman

Member
Lifetime Member
Jan 22, 2022
17
36
13
Alaska
Ownership

  1. 1000-3
Newby here and just got my first P1k-3. 2016 with 1400 miles, all stock except 28” tires and a full cab and heater. original clutch cover intact. Reading tons on this forum and a wealth of information!
I have pieced a little about how to NOT drive these machines but could use more general guidance. What I’ve gathered so far:
1. If stuck don’t give it gas - winch out
2. Don’t do this in reverse
3. Run manual if you can
4. Use low more often

any other thoughts about the right way to run these?
Higher rpms vs low I assume?
I ran sport mode once and it seemed to shift really high so won’t do that again.
also, what’s the best way to tow a meat wagon with these?

I don’t plan on going bigger than the 28’s that are on it.
thanks for any wisdom, it’s greatly appreciated
Fyi, I have this at the dealer for the clutch update. Want to be sure it’s good to go.
 
NTCPrezJB

NTCPrezJB

Retiring Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Jan 30, 2018
108,850
960,111
113
Hidden
Ownership

  1. 1000-5
Welcome to the forum from Canton, OH
Pics or it didn’t happen!
Red is the fastest color!
#NTC

The machine has clutch plates…you want them completely disengaged or you want them completely engaged and the tires moving accordingly. Not allowing the clutch plates to slip is the key to clutch life.

As for RPM…the machine has a rev limiter…don’t be afraid to hit it and bounce off of it when needed. But cruising around yeah up shift so the motor isn’t screaming for no reason. At the same time…don’t have the motor growling towards stall out for no reason either. If you’ve driven a manual vehicle you know the difference in the two extremes.

The machine isn’t an automatic…it is a manual with electronics helping or controlling shifting duties.

Low vs High … plenty of overlap between the two. Don’t use high to idle across the yard at 3 mph. Don’t use low to run 35 mph+ down the pavement to the gas station. Use your head and you’ll be fine. If most of what you are doing is on the slower end of things use Low, if you’re running fire roads and barely slowing down for washouts use High. Don’t be afraid to switch back and forth between the two as needed. Personally I’d only make the switch while stopped though.
 
Gabbas

Gabbas

Well-Known Member
May 17, 2020
280
701
93
Humboldt, Iowa
Ownership

  1. 1000-5
ONLY SHIFT WHILE STOPPED.

It's fine to give it has when stuck.,
Only if your tires are spinning. If they're not spinning don't give it gas

Shifting from low to hi while moving it not optional. Don't do it.

Just be smart and listen to your machine. If it sounds like it's "lugging" down shift. Etc.

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
 
Remington

Remington

POIDH Enforcement Officer
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Jul 24, 2016
20,256
115,792
113
Michigan
Ownership

  1. 1000-5

  2. Talon X
66C3E9AA 62A3 4BD4 BD0D 70AF6576FBFD

1643810503098
 
advertisement
3

338fedman

Member
Lifetime Member
Jan 22, 2022
17
36
13
Alaska
Ownership

  1. 1000-3
Welcome to the forum from Canton, OH
Pics or it didn’t happen!
Red is the fastest color!
#NTC

The machine has clutch plates…you want them completely disengaged or you want them completely engaged and the tires moving accordingly. Not allowing the clutch plates to slip is the key to clutch life.

As for RPM…the machine has a rev limiter…don’t be afraid to hit it and bounce off of it when needed. But cruising around yeah up shift so the motor isn’t screaming for no reason. At the same time…don’t have the motor growling towards stall out for no reason either. If you’ve driven a manual vehicle you know the difference in the two extremes.

The machine isn’t an automatic…it is a manual with electronics helping or controlling shifting duties.

Low vs High … plenty of overlap between the two. Don’t use high to idle across the yard at 3 mph. Don’t use low to run 35 mph+ down the pavement to the gas station. Use your head and you’ll be fine. If most of what you are doing is on the slower end of things use Low, if you’re running fire roads and barely slowing down for washouts use High. Don’t be afraid to switch back and forth between the two as needed. Personally I’d only make the switch while stopped though.
Pics will come when I get it back and start my mods. It is red, but really partial to the orange! Thanks for the feedback.
 
Todd627

Todd627

HondaSxS Club Stress Management Director
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Sep 4, 2018
56,722
619,305
113
MI
CID

CID

Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Oct 27, 2019
5,433
24,963
113
SE Denver-ish
Ownership

  1. Talon R
I'm a short shifter and paddle up anytime I'm not in a hurry. You can't lug these (Talon in my case) because the DCT software won't let you, it will always downshift when necessary. I'm surprised at how low down in the RPM the motor will still pull. Every once in a while, it won't donwshift when I think it should, that's what the paddles are for (assuming your model has paddles).

Low or High - when in doubt, paddle down, if there's a gear below where you were, you were just fine. If there wasn't a lower gear, you could have been in low. As said - if the tires are turning, you can send it.

The software programming is so good that I use the auto mode 95% of the time (with frequent manual upshifts), that's up to you and your mechanical knowledge. I don't like high rpm but don't ride in extreme conditions either. Even when I'm doing my best Robby Gordon impression, I'm still 'paddling up', pulling hard on the torque band not high rpm HP. You can't upshift too far, or lug the engine too much, the software won't let you (being stuck is an exception and we're back to 'tires must be turning').

Be careful shifting into Low range, especially when cold, don't let the gears grind, even for a second. Read the first post linked in my sig, it will explain that.
 
PatioDaddyo58

PatioDaddyo58

Member
Supporting Member
Nov 6, 2019
48
95
18
Abilene, TX
Ownership

  1. 700-2
Newby here and just got my first P1k-3. 2016 with 1400 miles, all stock except 28” tires and a full cab and heater. original clutch cover intact. Reading tons on this forum and a wealth of information!
I have pieced a little about how to NOT drive these machines but could use more general guidance. What I’ve gathered so far:
1. If stuck don’t give it gas - winch out
2. Don’t do this in reverse
3. Run manual if you can
4. Use low more often

any other thoughts about the right way to run these?
Higher rpms vs low I assume?
I ran sport mode once and it seemed to shift really high so won’t do that again.
also, what’s the best way to tow a meat wagon with these?

I don’t plan on going bigger than the 28’s that are on it.
thanks for any wisdom, it’s greatly appreciated
Fyi, I have this at the dealer for the clutch update. Want to be sure it’s good to go.
 
J

john790

Well-Known Member
Jan 13, 2020
357
1,093
93
Clinton ohio 44216
Ownership

  1. 1000-5
I quess iam on the learning curve here.I know how you should run this thing with the clutch.But i have been working the dog chit out of this thing plowing snow.Back dragging a foot of wet snow pushing a foot of wet snow and pushing 4ft snow piles down to 2 footers hard crunchey snow.Last time 4 diff lock on the piles it did a nice job low range.I hope my clutch likes me
 

About us

  • Our community has been around for many years and pride ourselves on offering unbiased, critical discussion among people of all different backgrounds. We are working every day to make sure our community is one of the best.

User Menu

Buy us a beer!

  • Lots of time and money has gone into making sure the community is running the best software, best designs, and all the other bells and whistles. Care to buy us a beer? We'd really appreciate it!

    Beer Fund!

    Club Membership!