P500 How to: Pioneer 500 front brake pad replacement

[ehart814]

This is a very easy job that can be completed in a home garage.

Time required:

• Novice = 2 hour
• Home mechanic = 1 hour
• Skilled mechanic = 30 mins
• Dealership = 3 hours.

In this example I went with OEM pads. Afterwards I found aftermarket and for the price will choose those next time - http://amzn.to/2cXEgku

You need:

• New brake pads
• 10mm deep socket with ratchet
• 12mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• Screw driver or pick
• Small wire brush
• Sil-glide or brake pad grease
• Brake cleaner
• Rags

If you aren't super familiar with this type of job, do one side at a time so you can refer to the other side if you are unsure of something.

1. Lift vehicle and remove front wheels.


The plastic shield is held on by two bolts. Use the 10mm socket to remove them. You can turn the wheel to one side or the other to make it easier to access them.




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[ehart814]

Then use the 12mm and 17mm wrenches to remove the two caliper bolts. Use the 17mm to prevent turning the sliding pin while you loosen the bolt.




Now you see the old pads. Pry them out. Pay attention to where the metal squealer is on the inside pad. It faces down. Once you have the pads out CLEAN all the surfaces they contact. Remove all the mud. Clean the caliper and around the piston. Don't be afraid to use a lot of brake cleaner!



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[ehart814]

Use the wire brush to clean all the areas that contact the brake pads. I used a small brush with brass bristles. Blast it with the brake cleaner. You want it all as clean as possible! BE CAREFUL not to tear the rubber boots on the sliding pins, or the boot around the piston in the caliper!!!

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[ehart814]

Prepare the new pads. Don't mix them up! Each side is different



Put sil-glide on the edges of the pads as shown. It keeps them from freezing up in the hardware and repels water.

Make sure the pins in the caliper bracket can move freely! If they are sticking at all you must carefully remove them, clean them, and grease them with sil-glide. If you remove them, be very careful not to damage the rubber boots. I did not remove mine this time.


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[ehart814]

Install the inner pad as shown. Look at where the metal squealer is. Now install the other pad.


Now use your thumbs to push the piston into the caliper so it will go over the new pads. Push it until it is flush with the piston case.
Note: If you are unable to push by hand, you can also use a C-Clamp or other portable press to slowly push the piston back in. It should go without too much trouble.




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[ehart814]

Clean everything as best you can!

Now put the caliper over the new pads.



Tighten the caliper bolts using the same method as you did to remove them. Reinstall the plastic guard.


Double check all the bolts to make sure you didn't leave anything loose. Now do the other side!

Reinstall the wheels and torque the lugs properly.

MAKE SURE YOU PUMP THE BRAKES A FEW TIMES BEFORE DRIVING.

You're done!!

If you found this post useful please post and let me know. Not only does it show it is useful, it bumps the topic for new viewers to see. Hopefully we can save someone some $.


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[JTW]

Well, aren't you just a regular helpful Henry!

 

[Montecresto]

Clean everything as best you can!

Now put the caliper over the new pads.

View attachment 22080

Tighten the caliper bolts using the same method as you did to remove them. Reinstall the plastic guard.
View attachment 22081

Double check all the bolts to make sure you didn't leave anything loose. Now do the other side!

Reinstall the wheels and torque the lugs properly.

MAKE SURE YOU PUMP THE BRAKES A FEW TIMES BEFORE DRIVING.

You're done!!


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Nice bud, totally appreciated. You didn't take the rotors and have them turned. Would you perhaps do that next time around?

 

[JTW]

Nice bud, totally appreciated. You didn't take the rotors and have them turned. Would you perhaps do that next time around?

How much is a rotor? May be cheaper to replace.. I don't know of anywhere that turns them anymore around here.

 

[ehart814]

Nice bud, totally appreciated. You didn't take the rotors and have them turned. Would you perhaps do that next time around?

Good question.
I would if I felt they needed it. They were still really new, just a light flash of surface rust. No warpage.

If it was a car, I'd almost always cut the rotors, even if just slightly to clean them. I also normally take the steel guides off the caliper bracket and clean them but they cleaned up really well with just the wire brush and brake clean.




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[Montecresto]

How much is a rotor? May be cheaper to replace.. I don't know of anywhere that turns them anymore around here.

Ha, where do you live Nairobi, lol.

 

[JTW]

Ha, where do you live Nairobi, lol.

Click pop click click..

 

[Montecresto]

Good question.
I would if I felt they needed it. They were still really new, just a light flash of surface rust. No warpage.

If it was a car, I'd almost always cut the rotors, even if just slightly to clean them. I also normally take the steel guides off the caliper bracket and clean them but they cleaned up really well with just the wire brush and brake clean.




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I see. Yeah, on the car I always have it done just because I like to start with that perfectly machined surface again. Do you happen to know if the dealer turns them, or should I say, are they suppose to turn them on a lining replacement??

 

[ehart814]

I see. Yeah, on the car I always have it done just because I like to start with that perfectly machined surface again. Do you happen to know if the dealer turns them, or should I say, are they suppose to turn them on a lining replacement??

I'd say in most cases they wouldn't (for this machine). Unless someone let it go all the way to the metal, or if a lot of rust had built up. But they don't like turning down a lot of rust, so they'd probly replace if that was the case. Mine were really good, even if they don't look super shiny in the pics. I feel they will last a very long time.


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[Montecresto]

I'd say in most cases they wouldn't (for this machine). Unless someone let it go all the way to the metal, or if a lot of rust had built up. But they don't like turning down a lot of rust, so they'd probly replace if that was the case. Mine were really good, even if they don't look super shiny in the pics. I feel they will last a very long time.


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I'll call my dealer and see what he says. But if I do the job myself when it's necessary (unlikely) I'll probably take them to my local brake specialist and have them turned. At any rate, thanks again for the write up ehart!

 

[Hondasxs]

Just want to thank ehart814 for the How-To.
I will be sending him a HondaSxS tee shirt and some stickers to say thanks for taking the time to build this post.
I know users will find it useful.
Thanks again.

 

[ehart814]

I forgot to mention.... this process should be very similar, if not identical, for Pioneer 700's. They use the exact same pads. The Big Red should be similar too...

 

[maddmax]

Just want to thank ehart814 for the How-To.
I will be sending him a HondaSxS tee shirt and some stickers to say thanks for taking the time to build this post.
I know users will find it useful.
Thanks again.

Where can I buy a couple tee shirts from?

 

[Hondasxs]

Where can I buy a couple tee shirts from?

I'll tag and bump the post.

 

[maddmax]

I'll tag and bump the post.

thanks