P1000 Installing Switch and Stinger for Dual Battery

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Reddmann

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I finally got the dual batteries setup last night. I have the stinger 80A solenoid connected to the auxiliary battery with an inline fuse. Then the stinger connected to a fuse box. I also installed the key on power harness, which has a 3 foot lead wire for adding key on power stuff. I ran out of time last night, so for now, I have that key on power lead running straight to one of the small connections on the stinger. I ran my radio to the fuse block, and it works when I turn the key on. I want to install a 3-position switch in the dash which allows me to activate the stinger (turn on accessories) using key on power or always on power. I'm not sure if I need to leave the lead from the key on power harness connected to the stinger and also connect the switch to the same spot. Or run the key on power wire to the switch? What is the correct way to do this? Thanks in advance for any replies.
 
JoeyL

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Here is a link to My Other Post about this. i dont have the exact setup you described but its pretty close. I attached a wiring diagram in that post that should give you an idea of what to do.

Let me know if you have a question.

Edit:
Here is the switch i used.
Switch Link
Switch Wiring Diagram Link - the wiring diagram link on the switch web page is wrong
 
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TripleB

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I finally got the dual batteries setup last night. I have the stinger 80A solenoid connected to the auxiliary battery with an inline fuse. Then the stinger connected to a fuse box. I also installed the key on power harness, which has a 3 foot lead wire for adding key on power stuff. I ran out of time last night, so for now, I have that key on power lead running straight to one of the small connections on the stinger. I ran my radio to the fuse block, and it works when I turn the key on. I want to install a 3-position switch in the dash which allows me to activate the stinger (turn on accessories) using key on power or always on power. I'm not sure if I need to leave the lead from the key on power harness connected to the stinger and also connect the switch to the same spot. Or run the key on power wire to the switch? What is the correct way to do this? Thanks in advance for any replies.
Is your 3 position switch a OTRATTW switch? If so is it a 7 pin or 10 pin? Mine is a 7 pin. I have key on running to the switch and from the switch to the relay/stinger.
173950 912bfcb0eadebd177022897bbce50e8b
 
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Reddmann

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Is your 3 position switch a OTRATTW switch? If so is it a 7 pin or 10 pin? Mine is a 7 pin. I have key on running to the switch and from the switch to the relay/stinger.View attachment 203249
Thanks! It's an Amarine brand that I ordered from Amazon. I'll add a link below. It is a 7 pin, 3 position switch. For some reason, it says 2 position in the description on Amazon, but it's a 3 position.
 
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Reddmann

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I got it working. I must say, I'm no electrician and it's not the prettiest, but it works (for now). Thanks again for the replies.
 
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Haldog77

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I am not trying to highjack this thread, but I do have a question. I noticed this past w/e while corning deer feeders, that my auxiliary battery is not being charged. The volt meter is 14.2v on the primary and 11.9-12.2v on the secondary batt. It has been working fine for over a year. Could it be a bad meter? Did a wire come loose, if so which one? Is the Stinger failing? Suggestions.
 
TripleB

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I am not trying to highjack this thread, but I do have a question. I noticed this past w/e while corning deer feeders, that my auxiliary battery is not being charged. The volt meter is 14.2v on the primary and 11.9-12.2v on the secondary batt. It has been working fine for over a year. Could it be a bad meter? Did a wire come loose, if so which one? Is the Stinger failing? Suggestions.
I had the true isolator fail. It had gotten moisture in it somehow.. Did the same thing you're talking about. It wasn't opening up to allow the 2nd battery to charge.
 
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Haldog77

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I had the true isolator fail. It had gotten moisture in it somehow.. Did the same thing you're talking about. It wasn't opening up to allow the 2nd battery to charge.
Ok, if the Stinger is failing then I just replace it, correct? If the Odyssey Gel battery is starting to die, then I will need to replace that? I think it had a ten year life expectancy.
 
TripleB

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Ok, if the Stinger is failing then I just replace it, correct? If the Odyssey Gel battery is starting to die, then I will need to replace that? I think it had a ten year life expectancy.
I had my stinger fail also but it had nothing to do with volt meter. I have my volt meter hooked directly to the isolator which is hooked directly to each battery. You may have yours hooked up different than mine.
 
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Check the isolator by unhooking just the second battery at the isolator.
Crank machine and wait for the blue light to come on.
Check the voltage on both posts.
Good = Both posts will have the same voltage
 
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Haldog77

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Check the isolator by unhooking just the second battery at the isolator.
Crank machine and wait for the blue light to come on.
Check the voltage on both posts.
Good = Both posts will have the same voltage
Thanks Richard, I did not mean to call the isolator the Stinger. It's hard to help someone when they are not using the correct terms.
 
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Check the isolator by unhooking just the second battery at the isolator.
Crank machine and wait for the blue light to come on.
Check the voltage on both posts.
Good = Both posts will have the same voltage
@Hondasxs, I unhooked the second battery at the isolator and tested the output voltage, like you said. 14.2 VDC on one side, 11.1 VDC on the other. I will need a new isolator, do you agree?
 
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When reading voltages, are you using a hand held volt meter (multimeter), or a volt meter installed in the vehicle? Use a hand held.

Does the blue light on the True isolator come on?
 
Hondasxs

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@Hondasxs, I unhooked the second battery at the isolator and tested the output voltage, like you said. 14.2 VDC on one side, 11.1 VDC on the other. I will need a new isolator, do you agree?
Something is still not right.
A bad isolator would be ZERO on one side.

Like said above. You need a handheld voltmeter. Not the one in your UTV.
 
Haldog77

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Something is still not right.
A bad isolator would be ZERO on one side.

Like said above. You need a handheld voltmeter. Not the one in your UTV.
I'm using a voltage - ohm meter. I disconnected the secondary battery and the in dash volt meter wire. Could this mean that the Isolator has not completely died? If pics will help, let me know where to post them so I don't high-jack this thread any further.
 
Hondasxs

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While I guess anything is possible.
I have not seen one read part voltage. It was usually all or none.
The few bad ones I have had were all dead on one side from the contactor failing to close.

How old is the isolator? Did you buy it from the club store?
I have some open box isolators I will cut a deal on.
 
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Bohnt10

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I have a similar set up and lately when ever my voltage on my second battery gets to 14, the power to my accessory panel will cut out. Anyone have an idea what might be going on? This set up has worked without issues for 2 yrs+ so something is failing....just not sure what...🤔
 
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