P1000 Lift options, tough choice! Help please 🙂

[rutterbg]

I'm super torn with what to do!

Pioneer 1000-6 mostly stock with fox shocks. Ride almost all trails with rocks, some mud, creeks, etc. Currently bottom out on occasion and destroying my skid plates. Wanting to gain some clearance to stop bottoming out. Don't want to lose any low end power for the most part, and still want to be able to run on the road.

Really trying to avoid portals, but in open to them.

Option 1: Thinking 6" TTC, 30" tires, FCP stage 2 tune, rb3 quick steer rack, rhino axles, and upgraded ball joints.

Option 2: 3" TTC, 30" tires, FCP tune, rb3 quick steer, rhino axles.

Option 3: Same as option 2 but with 4" portals added and 32" tires.

Options 4: 0" TTC arms, 4" portals, 32" tires, rb3 quick steer, rhino axles.

Can someone help me decide what would make sense for where I ride? Looking for easy maintenance, hopefully less bottoming out, good power, and road riding. Ughhhhh

 

[Smitty335]

I'm super torn with what to do!

Pioneer 1000-6 mostly stock with fox shocks. Ride almost all trails with rocks, some mud, creeks, etc. Currently bottom out on occasion and destroying my skid plates. Wanting to gain some clearance to stop bottoming out. Don't want to lose any low end power for the most part, and still want to be able to run on the road.

Really trying to avoid portals, but in open to them.

Option 1: Thinking 6" TTC, 30" tires, FCP stage 2 tune, rb3 quick steer rack, rhino axles, and upgraded ball joints.

Option 2: 3" TTC, 30" tires, FCP tune, rb3 quick steer, rhino axles.

Option 3: Same as option 2 but with 4" portals added and 32" tires.

Options 4: 0" TTC arms, 4" portals, 32" tires, rb3 quick steer, rhino axles.

Can someone help me decide what would make sense for where I ride? Looking for easy maintenance, hopefully less bottoming out, good power, and road riding. Ughhhhh

Get a real skid plate first. came with Fox shocks?

 

[rutterbg]

Get a real skid plate first. came with Fox shocks?

Ya only 1/2" plates I can find are from superATV. That's on the list already!

It did not come with fox shocks. I bought 1000-5 shocks and upgraded the springs to viper 300lb up front and 350lb in the rear.

 

[Scrappapotamus]

Skids and good shocks are your first priority. I would go with a 3"extended wheelbase TTC front and rear . My 1K-5 seems to be a bit top heavy at times. If you're riding on the flat, 6" lift might not be as big of a factor. Where I ride we have moderate grade change, clay with a sandstone transition the farther east you travel. Can have sketchy deep standing water in heavily traveled areas. Most areas have exposed rock and ruts on most trails. I'm running Elka Stage 5 shocks and have yet to get close to bottoming them. Ran the s*** out of it at TO'23 and was amazed how well it handled and soaked up several wash outs I encountered running too fast. Tires also need to be an important factor when aiming towards your ideal machine. Your machine has it's limits and will never be a Talon, but you can transform it into something that won't fatigue you after keeping pace all day, plus less likely to shake itself apart doing so.

 

[rutterbg]

Skids and good shocks are your first priority. I would go with a 3"extended wheelbase TTC front and rear . My 1K-5 seems to be a bit top heavy at times. If you're riding on the flat, 6" lift might not be as big of a factor. Where I ride we have moderate grade change, clay with a sandstone transition the farther east you travel. Can have sketchy deep standing water in heavily traveled areas. Most areas have exposed rock and ruts on most trails. I'm running Elka Stage 5 shocks and have yet to get close to bottoming them. Ran the s*** out of it at TO'23 and was amazed how well it handled and soaked up several wash outs I encountered running too fast. Tires also need to be an important factor when aiming towards your ideal machine. Your machine has it's limits and will never be a Talon, but you can transform it into something that won't fatigue you after keeping pace all day, plus less likely to shake itself apart doing so.

Thanks for the feedback! May I ask what your exact setup is for lift, wheels, tires, tune, etc?

 

[JenElio]

I'm super torn with what to do!

Pioneer 1000-6 mostly stock with fox shocks. Ride almost all trails with rocks, some mud, creeks, etc. Currently bottom out on occasion and destroying my skid plates. Wanting to gain some clearance to stop bottoming out. Don't want to lose any low end power for the most part, and still want to be able to run on the road.

Really trying to avoid portals, but in open to them.

Option 1: Thinking 6" TTC, 30" tires, FCP stage 2 tune, rb3 quick steer rack, rhino axles, and upgraded ball joints.

Option 2: 3" TTC, 30" tires, FCP tune, rb3 quick steer, rhino axles.

Option 3: Same as option 2 but with 4" portals added and 32" tires.

Options 4: 0" TTC arms, 4" portals, 32" tires, rb3 quick steer, rhino axles.

Can someone help me decide what would make sense for where I ride? Looking for easy maintenance, hopefully less bottoming out, good power, and road riding. Ughhhhh

I'm no expert but as I understand the TTC set ups also add a lot to your overall wheelbase which (on the P1K6) is already pretty long compared to the 5seater. So that much MORE turning radius (if that's an issue, it might not be for you 🤷‍♂️. Also, portals and rocky terrain don't really work well I think, lots of abuse on the suspension components. I think if you went with an OG set up of forward/rearward arms and some 30s along with an actual skid plate and some good shocks you'll be ok.


.....just my 2 cents

 

[bumperm]

Not meaning to steal the thread . . .

Can anyone help here? I need some advice on lowering my Pioneer all around - like a low rider. I'd also like to add some hydraulics to bounce the front end off the ground, that'd be cool. Smaller wheels and tires should help a lot - how small have your gone and how bad does the top end suffer with 8 or 12 inch tires. If you've done this, please post pictures. 🤔

 

[Remington]

@rutterbg
Dont even think about option 3&4
Use the search up top on that subject and blow your mind 🤯

Option 1&2 if you got the 💵 and feel like spending go for it but dont expect issues along the way, especially with tunes. They are great but do a VERY THROUGH research on here before u go batt $hit crazy with it and with new axels and such or youll be fuc’d up like Chinese💴.
Alot of us “Pioneers” of the forum have been there and done that for you do u dont do the same thing and have the “oh fuc” factor!

My suggestion is since u have Fox shocks and your just looking at
30’s as it seems, Id get some aftermarket arms like SATV for example and add preload to those shocks for your lift. Dont have to go ape with the lift unless your driving in the FL swamps hint hint nod nod!
whatever u do stay away from bracket lifts! Read up on that one too! Im tired of explaining that one lol.
And for the love of @TripleB the adult world Jesus, dont come back here and say your did all this without new Skid plates! Again, if u like spending 💸.
BTW the SATV skids are fine. Have them on my P1 and Talon.

 

[ToddACimer]

The new superatv Atlas a-arms look like a really good choice. If you're only running 30s and you are buying shocks, you'll be able to adjust the preload to get the ride height right.

You'll like the RB3 steering rack.

 

[P1K5Dave]

The 6" TTC kit really widens your stance (longer axles and all) so that would negate the tippiness issue...but creates its own issues with width for narrow trails, and mud-throwing tires.

You don't really need to look at a tune or gear-lowering with 30s.

Is TTC supplying a-arms for the new Honda 2-bolt front uppers yet? On my '18, I went with TTCs 2-bolt conversion.

If you choose TTC, go with the ball joint upgrade. The tie-rod style ends they run standard are not great. My thread P1k5Dave's TTC 3" and fox shock install would be something for you to check out.

 

[rutterbg]

@rutterbg
Dont even think about option 3&4
Use the search up top on that subject and blow your mind 🤯

Option 1&2 if you got the 💵 and feel like spending go for it but dont expect issues along the way, especially with tunes. They are great but do a VERY THROUGH research on here before u go batt $hit crazy with it and with new axels and such or youll be fuc’d up like Chinese💴.
Alot of us “Pioneers” of the forum have been there and done that for you do u dont do the same thing and have the “oh fuc” factor!

My suggestion is since u have Fox shocks and your just looking at
30’s as it seems, Id get some aftermarket arms like SATV for example and add preload to those shocks for your lift. Dont have to go ape with the lift unless your driving in the FL swamps hint hint nod nod!
whatever u do stay away from bracket lifts! Read up on that one too! Im tired of explaining that one lol.
And for the love of @TripleB the adult world Jesus, dont come back here and say your did all this without new Skid plates! Again, if u like spending 💸.
BTW the SATV skids are fine. Have them on my P1 and Talon.

I've been using the search, but I'm not sure what you are referring to.

I'm basically looking at TTC 3" or 6". 30" tires. Rhino axles if I go 6". And then a tune if needed. Keeping the tires at 30", I shouldn't really have any issues should I?

Of course, ordering skid plates ASAP!!!!

 

[rutterbg]

The 6" TTC kit really widens your stance (longer axles and all) so that would negate the tippiness issue...but creates its own issues with width for narrow trails, and mud-throwing tires.

You don't really need to look at a tune or gear-lowering with 30s.

Is TTC supplying a-arms for the new Honda 2-bolt front uppers yet? On my '18, I went with TTCs 2-bolt conversion.

If you choose TTC, go with the ball joint upgrade. The tie-rod style ends they run standard are not great. My thread P1k5Dave's TTC 3" and fox shock install would be something for you to check out.

I have been reading through all your posts! I didn't think about the mud throwing with the 6". I'm thinking now the 3" TTC with 30" tires. No tune or anything else, but definitely the upgraded ball joints. That will give me 4.5" additional clearance, and maybe a little better ride. They are supplying arms for the 2 bolt uppers.

I've got the fox shocks too, so I can set the preload and gain a little more clearance if needed.

 

[Remington]

I've been using the search, but I'm not sure what you are referring to.

I'm basically looking at TTC 3" or 6". 30" tires. Rhino axles if I go 6". And then a tune if needed. Keeping the tires at 30", I shouldn't really have any issues should I?

Of course, ordering skid plates ASAP!!!!

I was referring to Type the info your searching for in the search box
Example…TTC LIFT, Tunes, 30” tires, spacers, pre load. That should get u close.

You dont nessicaraly need a tune for 30” tires. Mostly depends on other things and how heavy a tire your using.

Dont understand why u need 6” lift for 30’s? Would look kind of G Dogish lol

Heres my P1 with what i described with just SATV arms front and back, fox shocks with added pre load and RB3 wide trac spacer kit so u can fix the trac and eliminate rubbing.
With 30’s would also recommend the same size tire all the way around

 

[DRZRon1]

Not meaning to steal the thread . . .

Can anyone help here? I need some advice on lowering my Pioneer all around - like a low rider. I'd also like to add some hydraulics to bounce the front end off the ground, that'd be cool. Smaller wheels and tires should help a lot - how small have your gone and how bad does the top end suffer with 8 or 12 inch tires. If you've done this, please post pictures. 🤔

Hi - have you done this, what air pressure are you running and what is the best tire for bouncing, and do you use a fuel stabilizer and why is it the best ?