P500 Maxxis/Tusk/SunF?

[bms]

Hello To All,
Need new P500 tires - would like to keep stock rims. Looking at Tusk Trilobites, SunF Power II's and Maxxis Big Horn 2.0's. I'd like a tough tire - the trails in the coal country of PA (near AAOA) are very rocky, somewhat wet, and rough. I'm also looking to improve ground clearance a little. I am not a real aggressive rider, and I only ride once a week or so. A few questions:

• Looking at 26x9x12 front, 26x11x12 rear (26x10x12 for the rear Trilobites). The BH's are 6 ply radials, the Trilobites are 8 ply bias, and the SunF's are 6 ply bias.
• Since I want to improve my ground clearance, should I be looking at 27's? I have read that the Tusks run smaller - is that true? Do the SunF's run smaller, as well? I think I read that the BH 2.0's run close to the true size. I don't want to modify the frame.
• The Trilobites are almost $138 cheaper the BH's, the SunF's are $180 cheaper than the BH's, and the SunF's are $41 cheaper than the Trilobites. So, is it worth the extra $$$ for the Trilos or the BH's?
• The tires are cheaper on Amazon (except for the Maxxis). Does it matter if I get them from Amazon or RMATV/SunF/Maxxis?
• Finally, do you think I will need wheel spacers with 26" tires? Will I need spacers with 27" tires?

Thanks for your help here - you folks know much more about these machines than me, and I look forward to and appreciate your advice!

 

[Admin]

 

[trigger]

Hello To All,
Need new P500 tires - would like to keep stock rims. Looking at Tusk Trilobites, SunF Power II's and Maxxis Big Horn 2.0's. I'd like a tough tire - the trails in the coal country of PA (near AAOA) are very rocky, somewhat wet, and rough. I'm also looking to improve ground clearance a little. I am not a real aggressive rider, and I only ride once a week or so. A few questions:

• Looking at 26x9x12 front, 26x11x12 rear (26x10x12 for the rear Trilobites). The BH's are 6 ply radials, the Trilobites are 8 ply bias, and the SunF's are 6 ply bias.
• Since I want to improve my ground clearance, should I be looking at 27's? I have read that the Tusks run smaller - is that true? Do the SunF's run smaller, as well? I think I read that the BH 2.0's run close to the true size. I don't want to modify the frame.
• The Trilobites are almost $138 cheaper the BH's, the SunF's are $180 cheaper than the BH's, and the SunF's are $41 cheaper than the Trilobites. So, is it worth the extra $$$ for the Trilos or the BH's?
• The tires are cheaper on Amazon (except for the Maxxis). Does it matter if I get them from Amazon or RMATV/SunF/Maxxis?
• Finally, do you think I will need wheel spacers with 26" tires? Will I need spacers with 27" tires?

Thanks for your help here - you folks know much more about these machines than me, and I look forward to and appreciate your advice!

Rule of thumb on this machine is if you go up you need to go out. We've read some horror stories from those that chose not to listen.
My opinion on tires is you get what you pay for. Radials make a big difference with the ride. Been running BH 2.0's since buying mine and haven't had any tire issues. Sun F just copied their tread pattern and, unless I was on a really tight budget, wouldn't even consider them. I've heard good things about the Trilobites but don't know anything about them. BH's run big btw, 26's are 26.5 actual.
All I got, good luck.

 

[Mopower58]

I don't have a P5 but I did buy BH 2.0's in a 28 and I love them. Don't have big rocks around here to damage sidewalls and they have great all around traction. Listen to @trigger and his advice. He has a P5 and lives a lot closer to you.

 

[Lburou]

Two things:

1- Radials are the way to go, hands down.

2- SunF tires on my P500 are doing great. Not your tread pattern, but right for us. Had a quality issue buying via amazon, and SunF stepped up without batting an eye and replaced the tire - a big plus in our view. HTH

ADDED: Our tire problem was that one tire took 10 ounces of weight to balance. We drive 30 mph on paved roads half the time.

 

[NitroxDiver]

First adding spacers helped my machine in handling and ride quality so unless you need to stay narrow for some reason I would add spacers. I’m running 2” rear 1” front spacers.
Second I’m in WV so probably real similar to the same terrain your in and I’m running 27” Sedona Coyotes with great success. No problems pulling the hills fully loaded and the improvement in traction, ground clearance and ride is very noticeable. I started with the factory 24” moved to 25” big horn knockoffs and now I’m on the 27”.
Last I don’t have any experience with the specific tires your asking about but I like my Coyotes in rocky hard ground in WV and they are wearing well. I’m sure any of the tires you listed will work very well for you. If you have not priced any tires from Chaparral give them a try. Their prices and customer service are great.

 

[bms]

Rule of thumb on this machine is if you go up you need to go out. We've read some horror stories from those that chose not to listen.
My opinion on tires is you get what you pay for. Radials make a big difference with the ride. Been running BH 2.0's since buying mine and haven't had any tire issues. Sun F just copied their tread pattern and, unless I was on a really tight budget, wouldn't even consider them. I've heard good things about the Trilobites but don't know anything about them. BH's run big btw, 26's are 26.5 actual.
All I got, good luck.

Thanks Trig & folks. If I get 5+2 wheels, would that eliminate the need for wheel spacers? It would cost only $17 more to go with 4/110, 12x7, 5+2, ITP Steel Wheels vs using stock wheels & the RB3 wide track bundle (2 - 1-1/2" & 2 - 1" spacers). What do you think?

 

[NitroxDiver]

Thanks Trig & folks. If I get 5+2 wheels, would that eliminate the need for wheel spacers? It would cost only $17 more to go with 4/110, 12x7, 5+2, ITP Steel Wheels vs using stock wheels & the RB3 wide track bundle (2 - 1-1/2" & 2 - 1" spacers). What do you think?

I am running spacers and 5+2 wheels. With my 27x9 tires mounted on 5+2 wheels front and rear, 2” rear and 1” front spacers I’m at about 54.5” front 55.5” rear widths. If you went 4+3 then you would probably be good without spacers but that would be up to you to decide if you wanted to go wider. If you went 4+3 and added 1” spacer to the rear you would be about the same set up as me with two less spacers. May not be a bad idea to look into the 4+3 and then you can add a rear spacer later if you wanted to.
Edit: I believe there are several people running 5+2 with no spacers with no problems . I bet some of them will chime in soon. The more I thought about my comment it struck me that just because I’m running 55” wide doesn’t mean that’s what everyone needs to run lol.

 

[Backwoods]

Look at ITP Blackwater Evos. they are a tough tire and good in most things. 8 ply radial also. I an currently running a bighorn tread. they are my favorite and do very well in every thing.

 

[futzin]

Just for reference, I'm running 4+3 ITP steelies, 27s, no spacers and love it.
Just a scosh over 53" wide.

 

[trigger]

Thanks Trig & folks. If I get 5+2 wheels, would that eliminate the need for wheel spacers? It would cost only $17 more to go with 4/110, 12x7, 5+2, ITP Steel Wheels vs using stock wheels & the RB3 wide track bundle (2 - 1-1/2" & 2 - 1" spacers). What do you think?

You'll be good with 5+2's and no spacers unless you start adding too much weight up high. Keep in mind that if you choose to run same size on all four you'll need 1" spacers on the back for an even track width.

 

[HUCK]

KEEP STOCK WHEELS ! ADD 1.5 spacers all around (you dont need to) for a more stable ride . Tusk Terrabites 27x11 back 27x9 fronts . Extra ground clearance , great traction , smoother ride . Strong tires . IMHO

 

[bms]

You'll be good with 5+2's and no spacers unless you start adding too much weight up high. Keep in mind that if you choose to run same size on all four you'll need 1" spacers on the back for an even track width.

Are the rear stock wheels/tires 1” wider than the fronts? I assume so, but would like to verify.

 

[NitroxDiver]

Are the rear stock wheels/tires 1” wider than the fronts? I assume so, but would like to verify.

Actually they are 1.5 “ wider.
Front 12x6 offset 4.5+1.5
Rear is 12x7.5 offset 6+1.5
If you go with 12x7 wheels you will be 1” wider than factory front wheel and .5” narrower than the factory rear wheel. (Edit, had it backwards), someone can double check me on those numbers.

 

[evanzahn1]

Just put on 28” bkt at 171 .. no spacers, doesn’t rub

 

[bms]

Ok, now thinking about 27” tires, leaning toward BH 2.0, since most of you recommend radials. Stay with stock wheels, or go for new 5+2 or 4+3 wheels?

 

[futzin]

I decided against spacers (although I run them on my quad). I went with 4+3 ITP steelies. 9" tires front/11" rear tires for even width. This route will throw some mud on the machine though, if that's a concern.

 

[Hondap5]

Just put on 28” bkt at 171 .. no spacers, doesn’t rub

View attachment 229253

Did you do the frame mod?

 

[evanzahn1]

No . My 28s didn’t need any frame mods.. Pretty sure 30s would rub though as the 28s are close ( pretty damn perfect) ...but I did break a cv joint yesterday .. had stock axles with 1300 miles on them . just ordered heavy duty demon axles.. coming in mail this week .

 

[DesertRatFamily]

Please don't get the OEM Big Horns. The lugs get torn off easy and the sidewalls are thin. Go to Chapparal Motorsports and check out the Ocelot P350. We run these tires on 4 Hondas and they are bullet proof. Under 100 each by a long shot. The tires are made for the dealership. Each tire on their sight has a video with detailed information. They discount parts 20 % and usually have a policy that orders over $100 ship free. Even if you don't buy from them they have great tire information and many to choose from.

 

[gmacaluso]

Ok, now thinking about 27” tires, leaning toward BH 2.0, since most of you recommend radials. Stay with stock wheels, or go for new 5+2 or 4+3 wheels?

Trigger appears to have run 'em all and his advice remains roughly the same ... Stay at 12, but 5+2 BH 2.0, 26 or 27's, 9's in front, 11's in back and boom ... there it is. The center of the bell curve is right in there and I've been watching this subject for awhile. Folks certainly have different circumstances, needs, and budgets but that's the center of the bell curve. Seems to strike the right balance of ride, weight, width, stability, tread type (at least for rocky terrain where more ground clearance is desirable). Unless you need swamp paddle design, and the budget is not primary, if Trig says it ...