P1000 New Battery

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BrotherNov

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Need to replace stock/OEM battery. What’s your thoughts on the best battery regardless of cost? My auxiliary is an XS Power D925 which has served me well.

I've read a lot of people like the Optima Yellow Top's. That would mean putting it under the seat though.
 
Remington

Remington

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The optima would be a bit of an overkill for your main batt. Most use those for your second battery. Theres only a couple battery manufacturers and they just put stickers on them for companies to sell under that name. A general replacement will do fine. Just match the cc amps.

Theres also alot of threads on this subject of what folks bought up in the search
 
Remington

Remington

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No, but since turning the lights on cause it to drop from 12.7 to 11.0 in less than 5 seconds, I assumed it has to be bad. Please correct me if you think I'm reaching that conclusion prematurely.
No, I think your prob on the right track. I would still load check it. U can get one from harbor freight cheep. Good to have around.
how old is that battery BTW? If u said before, forgive me for asking again
 
Remington

Remington

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No problem - It's the original factory batter bought new in April 2020
Seems kinda relatively short time for that to go bad. But possible. Id still get a load checker and see. Is that all u have on that battery is the std sxs equipment? You have a idolater for your second battery right?

 
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BrotherNov

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Seems kinda relatively short time for that to go bad. But possible. Id still get a load checker and see. Is that all u have on that battery is the std sxs equipment? You have a idolater for your second battery right?

Yep, and the isolater seems to bee functioning correctly. I'll grab a load tester when I buy a battery.
 
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Paul_H_L11

Paul_H_L11

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I have a 2021 I bought just about a year ago. I had the dealer add lights and heater, stereo, wiper, etc. Mine has turned over slower than I would expect from early on. Was really surprised to find non-watertight connections in Ignition system wiring in multiple places. As my lights have started to quit working, I have torn into the whole wiring nightmare done by the "Honda Dealer" in Casper Wyoming. Not only did their guy commit several wiring sins, but Honda did a really poor job of protecting the connections from moisture, resulting in widespread corrosion at connection points. I replaced batteries figuring that was the problem at first before I really looked deeper, but it still didn't fix problem so I have been digging deeper. Many connections were corroded, and each poor connection causes resistance and voltage drop. Be sure your grounds are "Clean & Tight" all the way back to the main ones on the engine case. I use "Kopr-Shield" on all my connections as I clean them up. It will increase the electrical connectivity and reduce any future corrosion.
As for batteries, a good rule of thumb is that more lead of a higher quality will allow for more of the chemical reaction necessary to release the energy we want to see from our batteries. More lead weighs more, costs more, so if you buy a Chinese made battery of recycled lead from Harbor Feint, it won't give you the same power as a quality virgin lead battery that weighs much more in the same battery case size. Batteries are a consumable product and every charge discharge cycle causes molecules of the lead to flake off and settle in the bottom of the battery case, so more lead equals longer battery life. Also, don't let batteries get deeply discharged because that causes sulfation on the plates, and the deeper they go the more sulfation they get and it doesn't come off completely.
Just my .02 worth.
 
bumperm

bumperm

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Also, don't let batteries get deeply discharged because that causes sulfation on the plates, and the deeper they go the more sulfation they get and it doesn't come off completely.
Just my .02 worth.

Good advice.

Also be aware lead acid (Pb) batteries come in more than one basic plate type. A higher number of thin lead plates provides more plate area for higher peak current over a short period. This is the design of vehicle starting batteries that are rated in CCA (cold cranking amps). The design is intended to deliver a lot of current for 15 seconds in the cold - great for starting an engine. Then there are deep cycle batteries, these will have thicker lead plates and are intended for powering loads over a longer period of time. Trolling motors, winching with the engine off, stereo etc. These batteries will typically be rated in amp hours (most often this is calculated over a 20 hour period).
 

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