P1000 Dual battery

RacinJasonWV

RacinJasonWV

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Aug 8, 2022
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were is the ground located on the 22 and newer machines? or is there a good location to create one?
I ran my ground to the original battery via the winch relay. Trail model came with factory winch so a little swapping around of wires let everything reach.
IMG 0071
IMG 0386
 
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Vetrob1

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Since installing almost everything it seems that my battery monitoring stays on all the time if with the key off and the Honda SXS store aux switch off. @Hondasxs any thoughts? I've been confused as hell from the beginning lol. I feel like an hour phone call or something
 
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Hillbillytnt

Hillbillytnt

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Since installing almost everything it seems that my battery monitoring stays on all the time if with the key off and the Honda SXS store aux switch off. @Hondasxs any thoughts? I've been confused as hell from the beginning lol. I feel like an hour phone call or something
Do you mean the dual volt meter. If so it is controlled by the ground. How do you have it grounded. The true comes with a relay that uses key on power to control it.
 
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Hillbillytnt

Hillbillytnt

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yea I have to tied in to the key on power.
If you used the relay true provides and have it wired correctly then it shouldn’t be on without power. If it’s on it’s getting a ground from somewhere
 
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bumperm

bumperm

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What @Hillbillytnt said. The circuit is simple. The dual voltmeter has two positive terminals, one goes to each battery + through a fuse (for safety, don't wire direct to battery terminal). They don't have to have their own fuses, but can tie in on the device side of another fuse.

The dual voltmeter has a ground terminal, when it's grounded the voltmeter will turn on its display. To avoid having it on all the time, most will use a "switched ground". That is obtained by using a small relay that is energized with + ignition on. With ignition on, the relay is energized, and its contacts apply a ground to the dual voltmeter.

Some will also find it useful to add a momentary button to apply a ground to the dual voltmeter. This allows one to better compare the two battery voltages as they can be checked by pushing the button while the ignition key is off, so the system isn't loading down the main battery during the comparison.
 
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Vetrob1

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oh you are right I dont have it correct. Does the ground for the fuse block go to the secondary battery im assuming? should you get a bus bar for key on power? Also where do the winch button leads go to? I had them on key on power but the main load wire are on the secondary battery now.
 
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bumperm

bumperm

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oh you are right I dont have it correct. Does the ground for the fuse block go to the secondary battery im assuming? should you get a bus bar for key on power? Also where do the winch button leads go to? I had them on key on power but the main load wire are on the secondary battery now.

Ground is, for all intents, the same point electrically whether it's on either battery or on the frame. It is important that the ground be well connected to the frame. This usually means there will be bare steel involved, so it's a good idea to apply protective grease to this terminal when making the connection (Dow DC4 or silicone grease will do).

As to whether or not to use a buss bar, that depends on what you want and how you decide to wire it. I purchased two covered fuse blocks that connect to both ground and battery. The come with fused screw terminals and an equal number of ground screw terminals. That way a device can be wired to them, (usually through a panel switch for +, or if it's a high current device, through it's own relay) and have both + and - terminals right there at the fuse block.
 
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