P1000m5 Dual Battery Diagram...Sorry in advance.

[Spadoo]

Hello! First I want to apologize to everyone in advance as I know this topic has been posted many times before. My issue is that I am in no way an electrician nor someone who even understands electrical design. Yet, I am going to attempt to install a dual battery system this weekend on my new 2024 1000-5 Forest I recently purchased.

I have watched almost every Youtube video available and read through TONS of threads and discussions on the forum regarding this. There was SO MUCH information and more than one way to do this, so I decided to use bits and pieces from many of your system and create one that suites my needs. I just ask that anyone with experience take a quick look and let me know if what I came up will work. I am open to criticism and any and all suggestions. Thank you in advance!

One of the main goals I wanted to integrate into this system is the ON/OFF/ON rocker switch to have the ability to run the dual system with Key-On Power / OFF / Auxiliary Battery Only (when machine is off).

What I have purchased:

• Odessey PC925 Battery w/ "L" terminal adaptors
• True Battery Isolator Kit - Amazon.com
• Stinger 80 AMP Battery Isolator Relay - Amazon.com
• Red Wolf 100 AMP Disconnect - Amazon.com
• Honda Pioneer Key-on Power Harness
• Honda Pioneer Power ACC Pin for Key-On Power
• 10-Way 100 AMP Fuse Block - https://www.amazon.com/junction-box...tion-Automotive/dp/B075L6T1PP/?tag=sxsweb24-20
• 7 Pin DPDT Rocker Switch - https://www.amazon.com/Bandc-Marine-Rocker-Switch-Waterproof/dp/B00P7ZS5GE/?tag=sxsweb24-20
• Positive & Negative Bus Bars (Incase I need to integrate these into the system)
• Accessories to be added for now:
  • 52" Light Bar (below windshield mount)
  • Soundbar
  • Rear Light Bar

Additionally, I have an assortment of wire/cable, connectors, terminals, in-line fuses, add-a-circuit fuse taps, diodes, jumpers and rocker switches. Basically if there is something needing to be added to the below diagram, I probably have it and can add it to the system if needed.

I have omitted most the grounding system to make the diagram less jumbled.

 

[Admin]

 

[RacinJasonWV]

I’m not much help but wanted to share how I got around the lack of ground wire on the newer models.

I did some swapping around with the factory battery wires to make things work.

Basically swapped the winch ground from the main battery over to the secondary and used the kit ground to go from winch control to main battery. They tie together at the winch controller.

Winch factory hot moved from starter solenoid over to the isolator where it ties into the second battery (2nd battery and winch both on isolator post). Then tied the isolator to the factory hot on the starter solenoid with the short kit wire.

 

[Spadoo]

I’m not much help but wanted to share how I got around the lack of ground wire on the newer models.

I did some swapping around with the factory battery wires to make things work.

Basically swapped the winch ground from the main battery over to the secondary and used the kit ground to go from winch control to main battery. They tie together at the winch controller.

Winch factory hot moved from starter solenoid over to the isolator where it ties into the second battery (2nd battery and winch both on isolator post). Then tied the isolator to the factory hot on the starter solenoid with the short kit wire.

View attachment 431457View attachment 431458View attachment 431459View attachment 431460

Thank you! I appreciate any and all suggestions from those who have done this modification already. Also, your post reminded me that I need to move my factory winch onto the aux battery as well.

 

[Hondasxs]

I'm glad to see someone understand the alternative wiring of the isolator using the spare ground off the relay. I think this may be a better option than what most of us do.

Fuse box choice - Consider one that has a ground buss on it. Your diagram shows you grounding to the fuse box but the one you selected is not capable of that as it is positive only.

Want to simplify the switch wiring for the stinger? I have an item for you --> Pre-Wired Relay Control Switch for AUX and Key-on usage. For Stinger, Cole Hersee or any.
Nothing wrong with yours. its just basic DPDT switch.

I'm adding back the grounds.

dont see much else really.....
You mentioned buss bars, I feel like they just add confusion. If you choose to add one as you said it must be placed correctly. I see many wire diagrams that are incorrect when using a positive and negative buss bar.

 

[Hondasxs]

You only need 1 key-on tap for your rocker switch.
Everything after the stinger is now switched. Might as well have the volt meter on it as well.
Or, you can also put it on the fuse block, sharing a power port with something small like USB ports or dome light.

 

[Spadoo]

I'm glad to see someone understand the alternative wiring of the isolator using the spare ground off the relay. I think this may be a better option than what most of us do.

Fuse box choice - Consider one that has a ground buss on it. Your diagram shows you grounding to the fuse box but the one you selected is not capable of that as it is positive only.

Want to simplify the switch wiring for the stinger? I have an item for you --> Pre-Wired Relay Control Switch for AUX and Key-on usage. For Stinger, Cole Hersee or any.
Nothing wrong with yours. its just basic DPDT switch.

I'm adding back the grounds.

dont see much else really.....
You mentioned buss bars, I feel like they just add confusion. If you choose to add one as you said it must be placed correctly. I see many wire diagrams that are incorrect when using a positive and negative buss bar.

View attachment 431567

Thank you for taking a look and confirming, as well as adding your comments! Puts my mind at ease. I spent a lot of time combing through forum posts and watching videos to try and understand how to best put together this system.

You are correct on the fuse box. I will be (unfortunately) adding a negative bus and only because I wont have the time to get a different fuse box prior to the install.

As for the club store switch...I stumbled across it a couple days ago, a bit too late for my install. My Pioneer is stored at our cabin, so I unfortunately I do not have enough time to get that switch before I head up there on Thursday to perform the install. I still may order your switch and integrate it at a later date since it is definitely more plug and play than what I will be doing.

 

[Spadoo]

You only need 1 key-on tap for your rocker switch.
Everything after the stinger is now switched. Might as well have the volt meter on it as well.
Or, you can also put it on the fuse block, sharing a power port with something small like USB ports or dome light.

View attachment 431568

So, for the one key-on tap, connect to DPDT switch to key-on as shown and run the volt meter relay power straight to the fuse block? Do this because the key-on tap will already be connected to the system via the DPDT switch from the stinger solenoid?

Sorry if I am not understanding correctly. I have a lot to learn about this wiring stuff.

 

[Hondasxs]

So, for the one key-on tap, connect to DPDT switch to key-on as shown and run the volt meter relay power straight to the fuse block? Do this because the key-on tap will already be connected to the system via the DPDT switch from the stinger solenoid?

Sorry if I am not understanding correctly. I have a lot to learn about this wiring stuff.

Yes.
No issue doing it either way.

You have to make a decision:
When using key-off power. Do you want the volt meter to read?




Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Spadoo]

Yes.
No issue doing it either way.

You have to make a decision:
When using key-off power. Do you want the volt meter to read?




Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Understood, thank you. I would think it to be beneficial to be able to view the volt meter in the key-off position so when running accessories on aux battery, I would be aware of battery drain.

 

[bumperm]

A simple solution, to be able to view both battery voltages at any time, is to install a normally open momentary push button on the dash. One side goes to ground, the other side goes to the ground terminal on the voltmeter. The advantage of this arrangement is that it allows you to check the main battery when it's not being either charged or discharged, i.e. with no-load and it displays both battery voltages "no-load" for comparison.

 

[PioneeringMO]

Really appreciate the great info here. Funny… when I first joined here I mentioned that I bought a Handa because I want to ride, not wrench. Someone here laughed and said I’d be wrenching anyway. Welp, here I am. Ordering the Mighty Maxx to run a winch and lights. Anyway, here’s my question:

The link above for the True Isolator kit is like $130 now. I’ve seen other options for quite a bit less. There’s a Kemimoto for $78.

Are there critical specs that True has that others don’t? Any alternative suggestions?

 

[Spadoo]

The True system was recommended by almost everyone, so I went with it. I’d recommend ordering from the club store if you go the True option.

I’m sure someone on here will have an opinion on the other options, though I can’t speak to them.

Good luck!

 

[Scoop]

A simple solution, to be able to view both battery voltages at any time, is to install a normally open momentary push button on the dash. One side goes to ground, the other side goes to the ground terminal on the voltmeter. The advantage of this arrangement is that it allows you to check the main battery when it's not being either charged or discharged, i.e. with no-load and it displays both battery voltages "no-load" for comparison.

The drawback to that setup is you can't monitor voltages while driving unless you hold the button down all the time.

 

[PioneeringMO]

Ok, I’ll go True and from Club shop to support. Still there are several options, but I’m struggling with which version to get. I put a Nilight 3 rocker w/ USB-C plus voltage meter in the dash, just not hooked up yet. At this point I’ve only added front and rear lights (switched separately), plus a winch. At this time, not planning to add anything else. Anyone have a suggestion for which specific package to get? Thanks.

 

[bumperm]

The drawback to that setup is you can't monitor voltages while driving unless you hold the button down all the time.

Not so. The "push button momentary ground" is in addition to the relay switched ground to the negative terminal of the dual volt meter. When the ignition is on, meter indicates as normal showing both battery voltages - however, the main battery is under load, so one cannot get a fair comparison of the two batteries. Again, the advantage of adding the momentary push button, it provides an easy way to view the voltage/s side by side with no load.

 

[Spadoo]

Ok, I’ll go True and from Club shop to support. Still there are several options, but I’m struggling with which version to get. I put a Nilight 3 rocker w/ USB-C plus voltage meter in the dash, just not hooked up yet. At this point I’ve only added front and rear lights (switched separately), plus a winch. At this time, not planning to add anything else. Anyone have a suggestion for which specific package to get? Thanks.

TrueAm UTV-SBI-18CM UTV Dual Battery Isolator Kit

The UTV-SBI-CM kit includes: 1-UTV-SBI-18 with insulators and 3M Dual Lock™ 1-12 inch #6 black cable with 6mm (1/4″) lugs 1-12 inch #6 red (primary) cable with 6mm (1/4″) lugs 1-18 inch #6 red (secondary) cable with 6mm (1/4″) lugs NOW featuring a NEW 36mm Single Meter Dual Display blue LED volt...

store.hondasxs.com

This has everything you need. Same package I installed.

 

[Spadoo]

@PioneeringMO

If you need any help/info I just installed my mine and can help you out. I can send the complete wiring diagram, etc.

My system has a light bar, reverse lights, soundbar and winch on the second battery. I put all accessories on an isolated switch as well.

Let me know!

 

[PioneeringMO]

Cool, thank you! I can follow this for the most part, but may have a couple detail questions.

For example: Is it ok to take all the grounds to the same frame spot? If so, where is the “go-to” ground spot? Also, there’s a Honda wiring harness referenced somewhere too. Is it worth getting?

 

[bumperm]

Well, you don't want grounds all over the place, just to keep it clean and tidy, but I added a ground for the little things I was adding in the engine compartment. I also used a fuse box that, like many of them, gives you as many ground screw outputs as it does additional fused positive output screws.

 

[Spadoo]

Cool, thank you! I can follow this for the most part, but may have a couple detail questions.

For example: Is it ok to take all the grounds to the same frame spot? If so, where is the “go-to” ground spot? Also, there’s a Honda wiring harness referenced somewhere too. Is it worth getting?

Some of the older model Pioneer's have an additional factory supplied ground, (separate from the ground to your main battery). Mine did not. I ground everything to the main ground. You could make a new ground if you want. At the advice of others on the forum, I did not.

ALL if the store products are worth the purchase: Which "Honda wiring harness" are you referring to? The accessories switch harness wouldn't work for me, as I do not have factory dead switches, (just blank covers). However, the Key-on harness is a must!