P1000m5 Dual Battery Diagram...Sorry in advance.

[PioneeringMO]

Anyone know of a schematic that shows where every single connection goes? Nothing implied… every single connection. I have a new 2nd batt. And the True kit. And a 3-rocker switch. There’s a frame brace on the left side a few inches back and to the left of the 2nd battery box. There are 3 or 4 holes so I ground off the paint and will use that for the common ground. Don’t have the stinger, don’t have the key-on. Every accessory I have which is basically 3 lights, has its own relay so I’m struggling to understand why I need all the additional stuff. Then I assume I’ll just run the winch straight off the 2nd batt? What am I missing? Thanks.

 

[Admin]

 

[PioneeringMO]

As a follow-up note I do appreciate all the info. that’s been shared. Some very detailed drawings, but it seems like most (maybe all) have added circuits, fuse blocks, etc. that I don’t have. Bottom line… I’m not experienced working with a range 12v circuitry so I'm not sure what’s a must-have vs have to. Thanks!

 

[Jankyeye]

Anyone know of a schematic that shows where every single connection goes? Nothing implied… every single connection. I have a new 2nd batt. And the True kit. And a 3-rocker switch. There’s a frame brace on the left side a few inches back and to the left of the 2nd battery box. There are 3 or 4 holes so I ground off the paint and will use that for the common ground. Don’t have the stinger, don’t have the key-on. Every accessory I have which is basically 3 lights, has its own relay so I’m struggling to understand why I need all the additional stuff. Then I assume I’ll just run the winch straight off the 2nd batt? What am I missing? Thanks.

If all the accessories have their own in line fuse/relay than you don't need the stinger/fuse panel. The winch (and lights) can go straight to the 2nd battery. The isolator just interrupts the positive cable between the main and 2nd battery.

I am assuming there is a key on trigger for the relays or are they hot all the time?

 

[Hillbillytnt]

The second fuse box controlled by a big relay is not necessary but it gives you more options and makes hooking some stuff up easier. Using a master switch to control the big relay allows you to charge the fuse box with key on/off.

 

[PioneeringMO]

If all the accessories have their own in line fuse/relay than you don't need the stinger/fuse panel. The winch (and lights) can go straight to the 2nd battery. The isolator just interrupts the positive cable between the main and 2nd battery.

I am assuming there is a key on trigger for the relays or are they hot all the time?

Yep, this helps. Thank you. Your last question is largely what I’m struggling with. Yes, run the winch direct to aux battery (+), but do I need to run the rocker panel hots from battery… or a keyed hot? If so, how do I do that from the 2nd batt?

I think I’m just gonna get the Stinger and a fuse block listed early in this thread. I’ll try to figure it out, but if I can’t I’ll post pics and see if someone can educate me. The key-on part has me scratching my head where to tap in and how.

 

[PioneeringMO]

The second fuse box controlled by a big relay is not necessary but it gives you more options and makes hooking some stuff up easier. Using a master switch to control the big relay allows you to charge the fuse box with key on/off.

When you say, using a master relay… you mean the stinger, correct? Also, is the general consensus that most/all accessories should be keyed?

 

[Scoop]

When you say, using a master relay… you mean the stinger, correct? Also, is the general consensus that most/all accessories should be keyed?

Ideally:

Do not connect anything aftermarket to the primary battery (except for a voltmeter). It should be dedicated to starting the machine and running the various factory components that are more sensitive to voltage fluctuations than aftermarket goodies (e.g., the DCT).

All additional accessories should be wired to a fuse box that is energized only when the key is in the ON position. An exception to this would be a winch, as you want to wire that (the big leads) directly to your secondary battery positive and negative cable, and then (likely) the solenoid trigger to a switched 12V supply.

To power the fuse box, you'll install a high amp continuous duty relay (such as the Stinger or, if you live in a colder climate where water freezes, a Cole Hersee relay). Wire that up so that, when you turn the ignition on, it provides power to the fuse box.

Also install a battery isolator, such as the True AM model sold in the club store. The purpose of this is to protect your primary battery from being run down in the event you run your accessories a bunch or which a lot. It monitors the batteries and, if the voltage drops too low in your accessory battery, it cuts the connection between the primary and secondary battery so that the primary is not depleted. Not only can this negatively affect starting the buggy, but it can affect normal operation of the DCT.

Optionally, you can install a switch (sold in the club store as well) that will allow you to energize the fuse box with all your accessories without having the ignition on. It has three positions: Key-on powers the fuse box (aka normal operation), switch on powers the fuse box (irrespective of the key-on position), or OFF. This is great for times you want to run an accessory without having the ignition on, such as playing the radio while hanging out.

Most install a dual voltmeter so that they can monitor the charging condition of each battery, independent of one another. One of the aforementioned True AM isolator kits includes a dual voltmeter. You can wire this so that it turn on either when in the key-on/override position, or (as some have done) add a normally open switch that allows you to check battery voltage by pushing a button. The latter is good because it lets you check voltage even when the machine is off, truly isolation the batteries.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

When you say, using a master relay… you mean the stinger, correct? Also, is the general consensus that most/all accessories should be keyed?

I use a stinger but for colder climates I’d recommend something different because they can freeze. Battery terminals get crowded and tracking down in-line fuses can take time. A second fuse box, drawing power from the 2nd battery, makes life easier. More room to wire easier to check fuses. The big relay is used to control power going to the 2nd fuse box. Use your key on source to control the relay and everything in that fuse box is key on only. If you choose you can take it a step further and use a master switch to control the big relay. That will allow you to power the 2nd fuse box without the key on or to turn it completely off. None of it’s necessary but it gives you options. Got small kids turn it off. Want to listen to the radio or use your lights. If the primary is properly isolated she’ll start even if you run that 2nd dead. I’m no electrician but with the help of this place and these people I did it. The club store has some great stuff to make it easier.

 

[Scoop]

I use a stinger but for colder climates I’d recommend something different because they can freeze.

Cole Hersee marine-rated continuous duty solenoid

I've used both the 65A (24117-01-BP) and 85A (24117) versions without issue. Links to the two I bought, but you can find them all over:

65A: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q8KONI?tag=sxsweb24-20

85A: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...see-12-volt-solenoid/ch00/24117?q=24117&pos=1

 

[Hillbillytnt]

Cole Hersee marine-rated continuous duty solenoid

I've used both the 65A (24117-01-BP) and 85A (24117) versions without issue. Links to the two I bought, but you can find them all over:

65A: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q8KONI?tag=sxsweb24-20

85A: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...see-12-volt-solenoid/ch00/24117?q=24117&pos=1

I’ll keep those in mind if I try to change mine. For me it’s not that big a problem I’m in south eastern ky so it does it maybe twice a year if that and it never lasts that long. Just a couple minutes at the most before it thaws. Late season black powder has some frosty mornings and early spring turkey has a few but it usually kicks in before I get out of the driveway. For someone plowing snow it could be a big problem.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

Cole Hersee marine-rated continuous duty solenoid

I've used both the 65A (24117-01-BP) and 85A (24117) versions without issue. Links to the two I bought, but you can find them all over:

65A: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q8KONI?tag=sxsweb24-20

85A: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...see-12-volt-solenoid/ch00/24117?q=24117&pos=1

I’ll keep those in mind if I try to change mine. For me it’s not that big a problem I’m in south eastern ky so it does it maybe twice a year if that and it never lasts that long. Just a couple minutes at the most before it thaws. Late season black powder has some frosty mornings and early spring turkey has a few but it usually kicks in before I get out of the driveway. For someone plowing snow it could be a big problem.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

Cole Hersee marine-rated continuous duty solenoid

I've used both the 65A (24117-01-BP) and 85A (24117) versions without issue. Links to the two I bought, but you can find them all over:

65A: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q8KONI?tag=sxsweb24-20

85A: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...see-12-volt-solenoid/ch00/24117?q=24117&pos=1

I’ll keep those in mind if I try to change mine. For me it’s not that big a problem I’m in south eastern ky so it does it maybe twice a year if that and it never lasts that long. Just a couple minutes at the most before it thaws. Late season black powder has some frosty mornings and early spring turkey has a few but it usually kicks in before I get out of the driveway. For someone plowing snow it could be a big problem.

 

[PioneeringMO]

Mods, please move this to a new thread if appropriate, but since a few have already provided me some good suggestions on this subject I’m going to start here.

Question: should the voltage display be on when the machine is shut off? It is lit up, as is the True circuit board. I have one wire on the striker relay going to the ACC fuse extender, the other going to the primary ground. One wire from Aux battery to main relay post, the other to fuse block, fuse block feeds rocker panel and switch on winch.

My freshly installed winch is working well and only when the key is on (as expected). Any ideas on my problems? Thank you!

 

[RacinJasonWV]

Mods, please move this to a new thread if appropriate, but since a few have already provided me some good suggestions on this subject I’m going to start here.

Question: should the voltage display be on when the machine is shut off? It is lit up, as is the True circuit board. I have one wire on the striker relay going to the ACC fuse extender, the other going to the primary ground. One wire from Aux battery to main relay post, the other to fuse block, fuse block feeds rocker panel and switch on winch.

My freshly installed winch is working well and only when the key is on (as expected). Any ideas on my problems? Thank you!

View attachment 438951

The trueam blue light will be on for a while with key off but should eventually go out.

No, the voltmeters should not be on. You can tackle this different ways. Some people use a key on relay to control the voltmeter ground.

Currently I have my voltmeter hots come on with key on. Primary battery from the key on trigger wire. Secondary battery from key on relayed fuse block.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

Mods, please move this to a new thread if appropriate, but since a few have already provided me some good suggestions on this subject I’m going to start here.

Question: should the voltage display be on when the machine is shut off? It is lit up, as is the True circuit board. I have one wire on the striker relay going to the ACC fuse extender, the other going to the primary ground. One wire from Aux battery to main relay post, the other to fuse block, fuse block feeds rocker panel and switch on winch.

My freshly installed winch is working well and only when the key is on (as expected). Any ideas on my problems? Thank you!

View attachment 438951

Did the meter come with a relay. The true kit will come with a relay that has a red a black and 2green wires. The two green wires are grounds when the relay is powered. Thec meter gets power from the batteries it’s measuring so you need to control the ground to turn it off. Use one of those green wires to ground meter.

 

[PioneeringMO]

So yeah, it’s pretty obvious that these meters will be hot when they’re tied directly to the battery cables at the True board. The instructions showed it hooked up that way and I didn’t even think about it.

 

[Jankyeye]

If you didnt buy the one with the relay, the simplest solution is to add a momentary push button in line with the ground. Then the meter will only light up when you push the button.

 

[PioneeringMO]

Did the meter come with a relay. The true kit will come with a relay that has a red a black and 2green wires. The two green wires are grounds when the relay is powered. Thec meter gets power from the batteries it’s measuring so you need to control the ground to turn it off. Use one of those green wires to ground meter.

I do have the relay but since I did the stinger relay and separate fuse panel like most of the guys are doing I left it out not realizing it was needed.

Is there a diagram somewhere showing where all the wires to that True relay goes? Sort of info. overload and I’ve tried to mix and match instructions based on what I have included.

Appreciate the help though!

 

[Hillbillytnt]

I do have the relay but since I did the stinger relay and separate fuse panel like most of the guys are doing I left it out not realizing it was needed.

Is there a diagram somewhere showing where all the wires to that True relay goes? Sort of info. overload and I’ve tried to mix and match instructions based on what I have included.

Appreciate the help though!

There’s a diagram somewhere but it’s pretty simple. The relay that came with the true kit should have 4 wires. Black to ground. Red to a key on source or controlled power source. I just plugged them into my second fuse box so anytime that box is hot my meter displays. Green to back of meter. You can use the other green to make the isolator go on and off with the key I didn’t but I think some do.

 

[PioneeringMO]

Al

There’s a diagram somewhere but it’s pretty simple. The relay that came with the true kit should have 4 wires. Black to ground. Red to a key on source or controlled power source. I just plugged them into my second fuse box so anytime that box is hot my meter displays. Green to back of meter. You can use the other green to make the isolator go on and off with the key I didn’t but I think some do.

Still being dense I guess. Red and black, got it. Either green to back of dual meter. Got it. But how does the other green “make the isolater go on and off?” Where would that green go?