P500 P500 Valve adjustment

rocmar

rocmar

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$50,000 truck and an $8,000 buggy... Kinda hard to compare I think. Trust me, you paid for those oil changes. The dealer builds it into the sale price.
Don't know where your at....on this
but customer service is a big deal
for me....
I do know that if people looking for
a 50" good priced SxS....read these
threads...
that could be a deal breaker...
So if your backing Honda....
your not there best spokesman
just sayin...this should of been
told to me ...when I purchased
....not deep into a owners manual
I still believe as many do that
Honda...should be doing this
to each on sold..you admitted
it don't take long..
Just saying...
 
rocmar

rocmar

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$50,000 truck and an $8,000 buggy... Kinda hard to compare I think. Trust me, you paid for those oil changes. The dealer builds it into the sale price.

The amount of $ you spend...
should not determine wat
kind of customer service you
get...
that's just wrong...
 
Montecresto

Montecresto

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$50,000 truck and an $8,000 buggy... Kinda hard to compare I think. Trust me, you paid for those oil changes. The dealer builds it into the sale price.
Think about profit ratio, there may not be much difference between the two. A first 100 mile valve adjustment should be on Honda, really.
 
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ehart814

ehart814

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It wasn't told to me either. Until after I signed the papers they said the first service included a valve adjustment. I have nothing to gain from someone buying a Honda. Don't you think that potential buyers that read these threads should know the maintenance that's required??


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ehart814

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The amount of $ you spend...
should not determine wat
kind of customer service you
get...
that's just wrong...
No such thing as a free lunch.
 
rocmar

rocmar

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$50,000 truck and an $8,000 buggy... Kinda hard to compare I think. Trust me, you paid for those oil changes. The dealer builds it into the sale price.
Can't remember seeing you there
when I purchased my truck....
yeah its a $53,699 ....
But that's not wat I paid
 
rocmar

rocmar

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It wasn't told to me either. Until after I signed the papers they said the first service included a valve adjustment. I have nothing to gain from someone buying a Honda. Don't you think that potential buyers that read these threads should know the maintenance that's required??


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Yes they should be told
....don't know why you got such
a negative attitude. ..towards
GOOD....customer service. ..
IT'S THE BEST SERVICE ANY
BUSINESS CAN OFFER
 
ehart814

ehart814

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Yes they should be told
....don't know why you got such
a negative attitude. ..towards
GOOD....customer service. ..
IT'S THE BEST SERVICE ANY
BUSINESS CAN OFFER

There is no point in me trying to explain my point of view. Because you won't get. I know a thing or two about customer service. I've made a career out of it.
 
rocmar

rocmar

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There is no point in me trying to explain my point of view. Because you won't get. I know a thing or two about customer service. I've made a career out of it.
From the way you talk
You haven't offered customer
service...
if you made a career out of it
when I said the best service
is....customer service. ..
You would of agreed
....
might wanna re think...
you should like a dealer who
has had alot of un happy
customers
 
rocmar

rocmar

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There is no point in me trying to explain my point of view. Because you won't get. I know a thing or two about customer service. I've made a career out of it.

If you think asking a customer to
preform a Honda tech job
...100 miles into a purchase
of a new p500....
ehart.......YOU AIN'T GETTING IT
 
ehart814

ehart814

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From the way you talk
You haven't offered customer
service...
if you made a career out of it
when I said the best service
is....customer service. ..
You would of agreed
....
might wanna re think...
you should like a dealer who
has had alot of un happy
customers
I totally agree with you that GOOD customer service is priority number one. I wouldn't be where I am if I didn't understand that and live by it. And if you think I'm BSing about making a career out of it, I'd be happy to prove otherwise. The whole point I was making is that you weren't being "deceived" by evil Honda about their maintenance requirements. A little research before buying, or asking the dealer would have revealed the valve adjustment requirement. And maybe that could have been thrown in your deal, similarly to your truck with the oil changes.
 
rocmar

rocmar

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There is no point in me trying to explain my point of view. Because you won't get. I know a thing or two about customer service. I've made a career out of it.
Let's just agree
to disagree agree
ehart....
 
rocmar

rocmar

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If nothing else, I'm agreeable. :)


Kool...
I totally agree with you that GOOD customer service is priority number one. I wouldn't be where I am if I didn't understand that and live by it. And if you think I'm BSing about making a career out of it, I'd be happy to prove otherwise. The whole point I was making is that you weren't being "deceived" by evil Honda about their maintenance requirements. A little research before buying, or asking the dealer would have revealed the valve adjustment requirement. And maybe that could have been thrown in your deal, similarly to your truck with the oil changes.

Dude .....the dealer should of brought it up
PERIOD...I did research. ..
 
ehart814

ehart814

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Kool...


Dude .....the dealer should of brought it up
PERIOD...I did research. ..
Beating this dead horse is exhausting. Lol
 
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ehart814

ehart814

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Aww poop. Just for kicks I opened the owners manual for my TRX700XX. 303059fcfc3e6810c4c32948c20bd3fe

Same as the P500. Definitely not tearing into this thing for the valve check!! It only comes out on nice sunny days when I feel like an adrenaline rush...9f90f5769df2139b6e706ef2e9f68c9f


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S

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This is a a basic guide to checking and adjusting the valves but please do so at your own risk as I am not a Honda Mechanic and am putting this up for informational purposes only


Most of the Tools needed:

1) Flat head screwdriver

2) Flashlight

3) 10mm box wrench

4) 6mm Allen head socket

5) Crescent wrench

6) Feeler gauge

7) Sparkplug wrench

8) Dental mirror

9) Phillips Screw driver

10) Torque wrench

Honda recommends a valve adjustment at the first 100 miles or 20 hours, and every 600 miles/100 hours after that.


It is a good idea to wash your machine before you start just so there is less mud to fall into places where you don’t want dirt and mud (the valves, inspections hole, etc)

I took a bunch of photos to give you some idea what is involved so please see belowView attachment 4905
View attachment 4904
View attachment 4906
I forgot to take a photo before I removed my ECM but if you unplug it you can move it out of the way and make things a bit easier on yourself
View attachment 4907
Do this to both panels - left and right

View attachment 4908
View attachment 4909
Now unthread the seatbelt from the plastic covers and remove the plastic that was under the seats and move the plastic (photo above) cover that held the wires out of the way. Don't really need to fully remove it, just get it so you can work on the valves.

View attachment 4922

View attachment 4910
Go ahead and remove the spark plug - you need it gone to find Top Dead Center and to release some of the engines compression. Don't try to find TDC yet - you are just getting ready to.

View attachment 4911
This gives you a little room to see the inspection port (Flywheel TDC "T" mark)

View attachment 4912

View attachment 4913
Due to the very tight work area I could not get a photo of what it looks like inside (on the flywheel) of the "T" you are looking for but it is basically a T with a line

View attachment 4914


View attachment 4915
You will need to remove both the covers. The one is in the photo and there is the 2nd one that is below the sticker (Cant see it in the photo but it looks the same and also gets removed -see the next photo)

View attachment 4916

View attachment 4917
While you have the cover off make sure it is clean and the O ring is intact and has a light coat of oil

Now is when you find TDC

Finding top dead center (TDC) on this machine is a real PAIN because of the way the motor is located so be prepared. To adjust the valves you have to have a COLD engine (think Honda says below 95F.


There are several ways to find TDC but first remove the spark plug and get a flashlight.


1) Stick a straw in the sparkplug hole and wait until it hits the high point where there is no pressure on the valves (it works but is not the best)


2) Use a wrench to turn the motor over and watch in the inspection port for the “T” on the flywheel to know you hit TDC – really the best way


3) Put the machine in 5th gear, look into the inspection port and SLOWLY roll it forward until you see the “T”. This is what I did. It is extremely hard to see the marks but it can be done.

To see in the inspection port I had to use a dental mirror (inspection mirror would have been better), flashlight and some very uncomfortable positions. If you remove the rear passenger wheel and the battery box you maybe able to see it more clearly without using a dental mirror but it will take some extra work to get to that point.

If you miss the “T” you have to do a full cycle to get back to it, you can’t just roll the machine backwards. Basically if you miss it, just start over. If you have your inspection/adjustment ports off when you push the machine you can see them opening and closing so you can gauge about when you are going to hit TDC. If you try to insert the gauge (and you see the piston is at TDC) and there is NO room for it to fit in you are most likely in the exhaust stroke – keep going. Never turn the engine backwards, just restart if you miss it.

View attachment 4921

-(Sorry could not take photos and move the machine, watch the valves, watch piston and check for the "T" in the inspection port with a mirror and flashlight and take photos - Sorry I'm not that coordinated..... LOL)

This image is what are looking for inside the inspection hole.
View attachment 4923

Once you have TOP DEAD CENTER look at the valves
View attachment 4918

Here is a photo I found on the net that shows how to measure the clearance (Photo is not a Pioneer but the idea is the same).
.006 is the correct valve clearance + or - .001
View attachment 4919
When adjusting the valves you need to slide the feeler gauge in and when you pull it out there will be a little resistance but it is not hard to pull it out. I have had it described to me as the amount of pressure would be similar to removing a sheet of paper from a closed book. Sort of a little bit of drag as you remove it but not needing a hard pull.
Measure your clearance (Please see above on how to do this - .006 is the correct intake valve clearance + or - .001, and .009 exhaust) and if it is too loose or to tight you need to loose the nut, and turn the slotted tappet. Remeasure and when you get it correct tight the nut down. The torque setting is 13 lbf.ft. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN this nut as they can strip. Also once you get everything snugged up recheck your measurements as things can change a little as you get everything locked down. It does not take much of a turn of the tappet to change the clearance of the valve so always check and recheck everything.
Here is what it looks like when you are adjusting them
View attachment 4920
.006 is the correct intake valve clearance + or - .001
Mine was dead on .006/.009 so I didn't have to adjust mine - you may or may not have to so I staged this photo just for reference. Anyway, once everything is set correctly it is time to put the covers back on the valves, replace the inspection port cover, reattach the battery box, and put the plastic back in place along with the ECM.
That is really all there is to adjusting the valves. If things were easier to get to it would be a ten minute job - really the hardest thing is making sure you are at TDC, after that everything is accessible.


Great post Code54. Got all the way into the valve check/adjustment and am hung up on this...Any help would be appreciated
... the manual says you know for sure when you are at TDC because there is "slack" in the rocker arms, and there is. So when you try to feeler gauge it, the rocker arm toggles a bit back and forth. How do you compensate or accurately adjust the valves with the slack there. I'm guessing you make sure it is tight against the cam side, gauge it and adjust it? Or do you just ignore the slack and adjust? Hope it makes sense.
 
HUCK

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Great write up Code ! Since you missed a few pictures , I think it would be great for you to stop by and do mine and I will take pictures !
 
Montecresto

Montecresto

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In the shop I work at, we've never recommended nor have we actually adjusted the valves on the first service of any P500. In fact, we've never adjusted the valves on any P500, and there are several running around with quite a few miles on them. If they aren't noisy (too loose) or if the machine is not hard starting (too tight), it's probably not necessary to adjust the valves.
Nice!!!! What I've thought (and posted on this forum) all along. So do you actually work at a Honda dealership shop or another sxs shop or small engine repair shop or other?
 
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