Montecresto
Montecresto el segundo
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Just checked the P500 valves for the first time(1400 miles). Intake was slightly loose, probably could have let it alone but after going thru the trouble to get at them, I tweaked it. Exhaust was right on. I wasn't having any noise or starting problems, just thought I would check them. I don't plan to check them again unless a problem crops up. Definitely a PITA.
Montecresto
Montecresto el segundo
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Completely agree that checking valves is a PITA! I just fired my bike up and oh boy. We have valve racket. I may bring it to the dealer. I just want to be done.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Montecresto
Montecresto el segundo
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Yes! Going to give it another try tomorrow night. I think we may have slightly off from TDC. It looked like we were there. We could see the T and _ but it must have been off a hair.
Montecresto
Montecresto el segundo
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Yeah, see that's the reason I've never attempted it. If it starts good, runs good and isn't making noise, I'll not do anything with mine. I don't even have confidence with the dealership. When I asked them a year ago, they hadn't even adjusted the valves on a P5.
I'm hoping they've at least adjusted them on a Foreman...or whichever Honda atv has this motor.
I thought mine seemed to chug a bit too much to turn over. Yesterday when I went to fire this up for the first time since the adjustment, it turned over real fast. Success! Till I heard the clickety clack. I believe my valves were really tight and now I made them too loose. [HASHTAG]#shouldhaveleftitalone[/HASHTAG]
I thought mine seemed to chug a bit too much to turn over. Yesterday when I went to fire this up for the first time since the adjustment, it turned over real fast. Success! Till I heard the clickety clack. I believe my valves were really tight and now I made them too loose. [HASHTAG]#shouldhaveleftitalone[/HASHTAG]
Montecresto
Montecresto el segundo
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That's what it sounds like. Just be sure you start that dude at the dealership before you pay for the service and drive off!
Where abouts on motor is the spot where you can spin the crank instead of using the tire method. These darn Honda motors confound me.
Montecresto
Montecresto el segundo
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Hell if I know, I've not attempted it. We quit having to adjust valves on cars 40-50 years ago. This and the stupid oil filter arrangement is my two chief gripes about the P5. I'm surprised we don't have points and condensers to contend with as well.
C
Chooglin
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This is the easiest way to find TDC , it saves you alot of time and hassle getting to the site hole !
DG Rider
Member: Triple Clutch Club
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Haven't done this yet...but here is a pic of the access plate to rotate the crank. Didn't see a pic of it in the thread...
Saw it on the back of the engine and said Hmmmm...
Confirmed with a 2014-2016 Foreman 500 FSM that this is what its for. Looks like tight access on a 500, but i ain't skeerd...
Prob a 17mm in there on the crank.
I am thinking it looks easy to remove the rear fenders/rack (looks like maybe 8 bolts/2 clips) to get straighter view of the timing hole while also tilting the batt box away?
I've already been down to the valve caps to investigate a coolant leak. Typica Honda with 8,000,000,000,000 plastic rivets taking most of the time.
This may stun everyone, but i got no owners manual with my machine. Where can i find one...maybe in PDF?
Also, I've found a paper version of the service manual, but I'm thinking that after decades and prob 10 thick, expensive books, i may just go digital on this one. Anyone know where i can get a PDF FSM?
One caution on the adjuster locknuts: The manual states something like 13 foot pounds as @Code54 said (approx 156 inch pounds). My experience with these has shown that repeated torquing of these to the FSM level will strip them. Most of you seem determined to NOT adjust your valves, so this won't be an issue. But for those who do, be aware...
...Other manuals for different machines I've owned have the torque listed from 144-150 inch pounds, but even at the minimum, they eventually stripped. I ultimately settled at 130 inch pounds and had no further issues.
Saw it on the back of the engine and said Hmmmm...
Confirmed with a 2014-2016 Foreman 500 FSM that this is what its for. Looks like tight access on a 500, but i ain't skeerd...
Prob a 17mm in there on the crank.
I am thinking it looks easy to remove the rear fenders/rack (looks like maybe 8 bolts/2 clips) to get straighter view of the timing hole while also tilting the batt box away?
I've already been down to the valve caps to investigate a coolant leak. Typica Honda with 8,000,000,000,000 plastic rivets taking most of the time.
This may stun everyone, but i got no owners manual with my machine. Where can i find one...maybe in PDF?
Also, I've found a paper version of the service manual, but I'm thinking that after decades and prob 10 thick, expensive books, i may just go digital on this one. Anyone know where i can get a PDF FSM?
One caution on the adjuster locknuts: The manual states something like 13 foot pounds as @Code54 said (approx 156 inch pounds). My experience with these has shown that repeated torquing of these to the FSM level will strip them. Most of you seem determined to NOT adjust your valves, so this won't be an issue. But for those who do, be aware...
...Other manuals for different machines I've owned have the torque listed from 144-150 inch pounds, but even at the minimum, they eventually stripped. I ultimately settled at 130 inch pounds and had no further issues.
DG Rider
Member: Triple Clutch Club
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Did mine today. Both were loose, esp the exhaust.
Yes, this is a bit of a pain. I think its just a consequence of using an engine that was never meant for SxS duty. That silly battery box is a big part. After taking some wire clips loose, i was able to move it completely out of the view of the timing hole. Yes, the captured "nut" on the battery box spun and had to be wedged to break loose (SURPRISE!).
I also used the cover i mentioned above to rotate the engine (clockwise, viewed from the rear). It's a 17mm. The valve access caps are 24mm.
Someone mentioned that they thought the airbox would need to be removed. I don't know if this is necessary, but the improved access is worth the small amount of work needed IMO ( I already pulled the rear rack/fenders for the job).
Again...that battery box is simply in the WRONG place. Tight in there too; Gonna be a pain when i add the winch (somebody had installed a trickle charger plug).
All in all, nothing too earth shattering...just a lot of rivets as usual.
Yes, this is a bit of a pain. I think its just a consequence of using an engine that was never meant for SxS duty. That silly battery box is a big part. After taking some wire clips loose, i was able to move it completely out of the view of the timing hole. Yes, the captured "nut" on the battery box spun and had to be wedged to break loose (SURPRISE!).
I also used the cover i mentioned above to rotate the engine (clockwise, viewed from the rear). It's a 17mm. The valve access caps are 24mm.
Someone mentioned that they thought the airbox would need to be removed. I don't know if this is necessary, but the improved access is worth the small amount of work needed IMO ( I already pulled the rear rack/fenders for the job).
Again...that battery box is simply in the WRONG place. Tight in there too; Gonna be a pain when i add the winch (somebody had installed a trickle charger plug).
All in all, nothing too earth shattering...just a lot of rivets as usual.
I'm not comfortable doing a valve adjustment on a new machine or in general. This puts me in a tough spot because I do not trust the dealer to do it correctly. What do you all think I should do? Take it to the dealer or just run it without adjustment?
Montecresto
Montecresto el segundo
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It doesn’t need to be adjusted unless you hear them, or it’s slow starting. I’ve got 3,000 miles on mine without having adjusted. People have 20 year old Honda ATV’s all over that have never been adjusted.
