P500 Philips head screws under seat

[dougbo44]

Can anyone offer suggestions on removal. Mine are installed so tight head is stripping and screw not coming loose....thanks in advance!

 

[Hondasxs]

Yep.
I use something like this - https://amzn.to/3PuLQo5

 

[CumminsPusher]

Maybe cut slot in screw and use regular screwdriver.

 

[Neohio]

Another option

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BGTTSE/?tag=sxsweb24-20

You need to make sure you are using a JIS/PLUS screwdriver, and not a phillips.

 

[Red500]

I used what the boss man suggest. What's a jis/plus screwdriver

 

[Neohio]

What's a jis/plus screwdriver

 

[Red500]

Oh, ok I didn't know that had a name thanks.

View attachment 345039

 

[Peter_72]

I used a dermal to put flat sides on them then used vise gripes

 

[lee]

Not that it matters, but it's my contention the issue is not the factory over tightening the screw.
I think the issue is the fastener or the threads in the frame are corroding a little and causing the screw to be stuck.

The solution is to buy a KRX.
Not really, smack the screw with a hammer to break it free.
I use a small punch (not usually effective) or one of those cheap interchangeable blades on a single screw driver handle things (I think it was a gift from my mom).
Drop the plus driver in to the screw, smack the other end with a hammer.

However, the thing that @Hondasxs suggested also works.
Impact driver is my last chance before I break out the gas axe (cutting torch).

When you reinstall any screws apply anti seize to the treads. (this step relates to my corrosion theory above)

 

[trigger]

You can use a #3 headed phillips instead of a #2. Preferably a big one with a good grip on it. Push on it with some ass and turn, it'll come out.

 

[MI-Trailblazer]

I've used the screw driver hex bits that go in your inter-changeable driver or cordless impact driver- stuck in one of the sockets that Torx bits are usually in, then a ratchet and put all my weight on the head of the ratchet and leverage of the handle to break those phillip's loose.

 

[CID]

Oh, ok I didn't know that had a name thanks.

JIS - Japanese Industrial Standard

Although not the proper tool, you can grind the tip off of a Phillips bit and it will fit a JIS screw better.

Many JIS screws are identified with a 'dot' punch mark on the head.

 

[Neohio]

A handheld impact driver is your best friend for these screws in question.
The screwdriver I linked previously is an impact driver. Whack the end with a hammer and it will shock it loose.

I am not familar with the unit @Hondasxs posted on whether it comes with Phillips or JIS bits.
I know for a fact this Vessel comes with the proper JIS bits.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WHOV64/?tag=sxsweb24-20

 

[KPM]

I took a dremel and made a big slot cut them took a big flathead screwdriver and some kroil and got mine out. All of mine were thought but one required the dremel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Neohio]

Here is a thread of some basic and nice to have tools for working on the 1000. A lot of the basics cross over to other platforms as well.

P1000 - Real Tools Required

Updated 3/1/19 The goal of this thread is to create a list of tools that are essential for completing trail side repairs on a Honda Pioneer 1000. The 700 and 500 are likely similar. The idea is that if a person is going out on a significant riding trip they need at least a bare minimum set of...

hondasxs.com

 

[JACKAL]

Not that it matters, but it's my contention the issue is not the factory over tightening the screw.
I think the issue is the fastener or the threads in the frame are corroding a little and causing the screw to be stuck.

The solution is to buy a KRX.
Not really, smack the screw with a hammer to break it free.
I use a small punch (not usually effective) or one of those cheap interchangeable blades on a single screw driver handle things (I think it was a gift from my mom).
Drop the plus driver in to the screw, smack the other end with a hammer.

However, the thing that @Hondasxs suggested also works.
Impact driver is my last chance before I break out the gas axe (cutting torch).

When you reinstall any screws apply anti seize to the treads. (this step relates to my corrosion theory above)

A good friend of mine (John Doe #2) sed he has seen that HODOR now installs those screws with green sleeve retainer lock-tite since the conclusion of Game of Thrones series. Rumor has it The Hound then QC double checks for proper tightness of 157ft lbs by using only his thumb and index fingers.

 

[trigger]

A good friend of mine (John Doe #2) sed he has seen that HODOR now installs those screws with green sleeve retainer lock-tite since the conclusion of Game of Thrones series. Rumor has it The Hound then QC double checks for proper tightness of 157ft lbs by using only his thumb and index fingers.

Somebody's been watching the marathon on HBO... me too.

 

[lee]

So rumor has it, the QC guy puts a torque wrench on the fastener and feels for a click.
Paint mark the screw and kick it down the line.
Wheather the screw turns or not has no bearing on its ability to be paint marked.
(But I still think the plus slots would be stripped out if they where tightened that much on the line)

 

[JACKAL]

So rumor has it, the QC guy puts a torque wrench on the fastener and feels for a click.
Paint mark the screw and kick it down the line.
Wheather the screw turns or not has no bearing on its ability to be paint marked.
(But I still think the plus slots would be stripped out if they where tightened that much on the line)

Hodor, torque that bolt and paint it.

 

[Chevyfan396]

I used a regular 18v makita impact driver and they came right out. Could not budge them with a regular screw driver even with a good hold.