P1000 Pioneer 1000 full roll bar help needed!

[ClayWelder]

Hello, so I am new here. I finally got around to finding the rear roll bars off of a 1000-5 to put in my 1000. And they don’t fit… they hit the bed corners, and you can see that if the bed is narrower, then probably everything would fit. So, I am guessing that the 1000-5 bed is narrower that the bed on the 3 seater? WTF? Other than making some adapter plates, or swapping out my bed (don’t really want those jump seats) for the 5 seater version, what are my options? Am I looking at this right? I never really compared the two models for the width of the bed, but that’s what it’s looking like now… 😳🤦‍♂️🤬🤬🤬

 

[sxs1000]

yep the 5 seater bed is narrower

 

[ClayWelder]

yep the 5 seater bed is narrower

Well s***. That’s not worth a flip. Thanks for confirming that. You would have thought they put the wide one on the 5 seater, or better yet just make everything the same… well s***. Time to dig out my welding skillz

 

[ClayWelder]

Has anyone else done this and what did you do? I really don’t have the time or resources to swap beds, nor do I have any prospects that would want to swap. I’m not gonna buy one (can’t find one anyways lols), or built one piece by piece. This really throws a wrench in my plans.

 

[gullyjumper]

How about a flat bed ? Ive seen a couple on here and they really look tough !

 

[JenElio]

Hello, so I am new here. I finally got around to finding the rear roll bars off of a 1000-5 to put in my 1000. And they don’t fit… they hit the bed corners, and you can see that if the bed is narrower, then probably everything would fit. So, I am guessing that the 1000-5 bed is narrower that the bed on the 3 seater? WTF? Other than making some adapter plates, or swapping out my bed (don’t really want those jump seats) for the 5 seater version, what are my options? Am I looking at this right? I never really compared the two models for the width of the bed, but that’s what it’s looking like now… 😳🤦‍♂️🤬🤬🤬

What are your needs for that rear roll bar? If you don't have rear passengers, are you just wanting the full roof to cover the bed?

 

[ClayWelder]

How about a flat bed ? Ive seen a couple on here and they really look tough !

Now that is an idea! I like it, although for my needs it may not be ideal. But, if I can’t get the necessary modifications worked out, then that is what I will probably do. Pull the sides off. Thanks! What my pidgin head came up with in the mean time was to cut the bars on the bottom between the corner bend and the Y brace, and also up top, below that corner turn. Then I’ll need 4 flat plates, probably about 6-7”long, maybe 4” tall. And not square, but pulled so it’s a parallelogram. They would go front and rear of the upper cut in the bars, and a small plate to top and bottom to box it in. At the bottom I simply need some 2” tubing to bridge the gaps on each side. Sure, it will be a pain to get all of the angles right. But, as a pipe welder, and certified welding inspector, I’m pretty sure I have the skills and tools to lay it out properly. And as you said, I can take the sides off, and then of course the bars fit properly. I lay out some ordinate lines for line up purposes on the 0, 90, 180 and 270 coordinates. Then mark my cuts on the bars to be sure they are the same. Bolt the bars in, square them up and tighten. Cut some 2x4 braces, and cut the bars. Do one side at a time, cut out, spacer at the bottom, line up the bars at the top side, clamp the brace plates in. Check all alignments, tack it up. Weld it out. Rise and repeat for the other side. I want to keep my larger bed, of course. I don’t need rear seats. But I do want a full roof for rain cover of what I may have in the back. So yeah, absolutely! Thanks for that suggestion. I can run without sides and a tailgate if I must, if I can’t they the mods done this week while I am home off work. Then the weeks work, and the Christmas holidays will be sure to see it done.

What are your needs for that rear roll bar? If you don't have rear passengers, are you just wanting the full roof to cover the bed?

yes. I was just going to fab up a set of bars but I wanted the full roof. And the Honda roof is less hot and lighter, but it matches the factory roll bars. So I was just waiting and finally a self practically fell in my lap. So I figured that was a fine deal. Nope. Honda outsmarted me by having a stupid design. The frame and roll bars mounts etc are the same from 1000 to 1000-5. But that stupid bed is not the same, and the roll bars only fit the -5 bed. It’s ok, I have a path forward now. I work as an inspector on the pipeline, and I don’t have a lot of time off anymore so I thought it was just a few bolts, easy peasy. But, seems like I could have just fanned up a custom set a year ago, and just called it a day. I didn’t know the beds were different sizes. I mean, it never crossed my mind to look or ask, because, WHY? It s just stupid to make it the way they did. But hey they can still claim that the 1000 will fit a full sized 44”x48” pallet… 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

 

[JenElio]

yes. I was just going to fab up a set of bars but I wanted the full roof. And the Honda roof is less hot and lighter, but it matches the factory roll bars. So I was just waiting and finally a self practically fell in my lap. So I figured that was a fine deal. Nope. Honda outsmarted me by having a stupid design. The frame and roll bars mounts etc are the same from 1000 to 1000-5. But that stupid bed is not the same, and the roll bars only fit the -5 bed. It’s ok, I have a path forward now. I work as an inspector on the pipeline, and I don’t have a lot of time off anymore so I thought it was just a few bolts, easy peasy. But, seems like I could have just fanned up a custom set a year ago, and just called it a day. I didn’t know the beds were different sizes. I mean, it never crossed my mind to look or ask, because, WHY? It s just stupid to make it the way they did. But hey they can still claim that the 1000 will fit a full sized 44”x48” pallet… 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Ok, that's what I thought it was for the cover aspect.
So....I don't recall exactly where in here but, someone did something similar to what you want. They cut the C pillars and left the roof intact (it was a 1000-5) but same concept for the 1000-3. Not sure on all the details of the build but if I recall he did it just cause he didn't want the hassle of loading/unloading around the C pillars.

 

[bumperm]

Don't know what the "take off" P1K-5 rear roll bar cost you, but it is probably worth a fair amount to someone fixing a roll over (as in a recent post) Honda is proud of them! Point I'm getting at is why not fabricate the structure/supports for the roof extension? You won't have passengers back there, so no need for "proper" roll bar protection. You could even dispense with the rear verticals, just use a diagonal strut up to the rear of the roof on each side - plenty strong and provides better access to the bed. The only down-side I can think of, is you'd need the rear verticals if you were going to put on a rear windshield like SuperATV sells for the -5.

Was it really stupid Honda made it the way they did? On the -5, they wanted a convertible bed, but they needed room for the access steps, rear seat mechanisms for folding and latching, plus the added thickness or the rear doors vs the thinner sidewalls of the -3 (where maximizing bed area was obviously the goal). Maybe it was a compromise?

 

[JenElio]

Found a link to what I was talking about with the guy eliminating the C pillar. Like @bumperm mentioned, you could just resell the section you have and quickly fab the section you need.

Good luck, post some pics of what you end up with it might help someone else down the road 👍

Thread 'Chopped top bread truck' P1000 - Chopped top bread truck

 

[ClayWelder]

Ok, that's what I thought it was for the cover aspect.
So....I don't recall exactly where in here but, someone did something similar to what you want. They cut the C pillars and left the roof intact (it was a 1000-5) but same concept for the 1000-3. Not sure on all the details of the build but if I recall he did it just cause he didn't want the hassle of loading/unloading around the C pillars.

Yes, and I agree that there may be a better way. I can certainly fabricate the whole damn frame and roll bars, cage, etc and make my own if I really wanted to. But, I was just figuring I would find a set of bars that would bolt in, and then I would have a quick easy install and slap a roof on it, finally. I sure would have bought the 1000-5 deluxe sport kitchen sink model, but at the time I was budgeting everything. Heck, I still have my 3/4" marine grade plywood top I made and covered in spray seal ! Lols, it needs a new coat, its been a few years. I work on the pipeline, this was bought for work, so I wasn't too concerned with all the toys bells and whistles. It just needs to get me around when my truck can't or wont go, or if access is tight, or just a muddy slurry mess. And its nice to have a place to sit, eat lunch, be somewhat warm and dry, or have some shade with you, and bring my cooler and stuff. I keep my mud boots, rain gear, 3' walking wheel, 100' tape measure, weld inspection tools and meters, coating inspection tools, cooler with lunch, water, ice, first aid kit, radio, chargers for my tablet and phone, cell phone booster for the mountains. I mean, I can work out of my back pack, but if I have a full day, I have my lunch bag and two other bags with tablet, inspection tools, etc. So, I need the space and room really. And while I am adding an Inferno heater, I don't need to heat the whole thing, just the cab. Plus the crew may be working in multiple places, and I need to go where they are and check on them, and it just works better if I can lug all my crap with me, and go when and where I need to, and have a few conveniences. Yes. I agree I can cut the C pillars, and widen at the bottom and brace it back at the top, and be pretty easy and straight. I have certainly learned a lot more about my Pioneer today than what I ever thought, I never would have guessed they made the other bed smaller. OR, that the rear roll bar section is basically incompatible with the standard bed on the 3 seat model. Time to improvise!! Lots of good ideas, and I knew some people here would have some ideas and answers to my dilemma. SO now I have a plan, a back up plan, an I am sure that this will work out well in the end. My hard part now is deciding just exactly how I am wiring in some more accessories and adding a second battery finally. I have all the kits, and relays, isolator, etc etc. I am capable of doing this, and I have some great videos and schematics to follow. I just want a few more inches of room, that front hood area is very cramped lols. And, I like to run relays on high power stuff, so that's more work for me lols!!! So I have the Mission Impossible Challenge: get the wiring done AND the welding done AND a service done, all by Saturday night. Oh and my hard top was ordered 2 weeks ago and never shipped, the new glass front windshield arrived cracked, and I ALSO need to install the new hydraulics on the tractor for the grapple for the FEL that's coming... Oh, and put fluid in the tractor tires (low temp windshield washer fluid ) BUSY BUSY!! You guys helped save my week!!

 

[ClayWelder]

Don't know what the "take off" P1K-5 rear roll bar cost you, but it is probably worth a fair amount to someone fixing a roll over (as in a recent post) Honda is proud of them! Point I'm getting at is why not fabricate the structure/supports for the roof extension? You won't have passengers back there, so no need for "proper" roll bar protection. You could even dispense with the rear verticals, just use a diagonal strut up to the rear of the roof on each side - plenty strong and provides better access to the bed. The only down-side I can think of, is you'd need the rear verticals if you were going to put on a rear windshield like SuperATV sells for the -5.

Was it really stupid Honda made it the way they did? On the -5, they wanted a convertible bed, but they needed room for the access steps, rear seat mechanisms for folding and latching, plus the added thickness or the rear doors vs the thinner sidewalls of the -3 (where maximizing bed area was obviously the goal). Maybe it was a compromise?

Yeah they were a fair price, that's for sure. And, that is a reasonable way to do it, seeing as my plan did not survive contact with the enemy.. LOLS I may do that, as I can measure the bars now and know where the roof will connect. I have some great ideas and advice, and thank you all for such support. To be fair, if I had known the beds were different and wider, and the rear roll bars wont fit with the 3 seater bed, I would have done just exactly that a while ago. I was just waiting to find a set and slap them in, never dreamed they wouldn't fit... ROFL. I am enclosing the cab for the winter (door tops and mid panel and heater), but I never really considered closing in the bed... maybe soft side canvas that rolls up/down, like on a HMMWV or duece and a half. Just to keep the back out of sight and maybe less dust/rain on my gear. SO,... anyone need a set of used rear roll bars..? I may just sell these...

Thanks guys, and have a Great & Happy Thanksgiving!!

 

[Remington]

Holy cow! You should write a book! Need to add pics tho! 🤣
Remember….
Pics Or It Didnt Happen! 🥳