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I took it back today, they told me they would get around to looking at it in 2 weeks haha that’s pretty typical service up here. Thanks everyone for the responses
It's the same thing here in Manitoba . The dealer wants you to bring it in so that when they have extra time they'll look at it. The dealer I deal with have been pretty good because They've wanted me to do that too. However I've stuck to my guns and told them that the day before they can look at it let me know and I'll have it there first thing in the morning. So far they've agreed towork this way . To me it's senseless to haul my machine to them then leave it there come back home with a empty trailer then have to go back and pick it up. My time is worth something plus fuel etc: Dealer is over 1 hr away so the day they work on it I leave my trailer at there place then go into the city and do some shopping . So far it's been working out. BTW only reason my machine goes to them is for any warrenty recalls. Also my machine is used everyday and they know this.
In the '22's the heater core and fan are mounted high under the hood, duct runs are minimal, I have done a lot of sealing, I have the hard doors and hard mid panelled my heater keeps the cab tolerable. This heater believe it or not is a big improvement over the '21 version. As others have said, this does not compare to a car/truck heater
I installed an Inferno Maxx heater into my 3 seater. I dont have all of the vents plumbed up, as of yet, and it keeps me pretty warm already!! If you are even somewhat handy, I highly recommend the Inferno and Inferno Maxx heaters (250 cfm vs 350 cfm, iirc)
infernoheaters.com
infernoheaters.com
I use mine for pipeline work, and I do most of my own work and mods, this install is not too difficult at all, heater sits under the driver seat. I have a plan to change my heater ducts for the windshield, I am looking at fabricating a pvc duct to go across the lower windshield. Tees for the inlet and the outlets. I have vents already in the seat sidewall, right behind your legs. Still in the planning stage, but I think I can make it work very well, just to share an idea. Anyways, as far as sealing your cab, you can get thick rubber sheeting and make seals to overlap gaps, or even use some spray foam to seal gaps that do not flex (be careful as the foam expands lols, but you can trim it back, use tape to build a wall and spray foam in the gap. You have huge gaps under the hood, in the inner front wheel wells. Super ATV makes a part to help seal it from mud, which you can then seal from wind also:
www.superatv.com
Also, there is a mod where people use a boat bilge pump to blow out excessive heat from the motor and transmission under the seat out the bottom or back of your buggy. Some people have plumbed that up to also be able to blow that hot air into the cab during the cold season. Hope some of this helps you out.
Honda Pioneer 1000 Cab Heater | Inferno Cab Heaters - UTV Heaters, Heater Kits
Stay warmer outside longer with a top-quality Honda Pioneer 1000 Cab Heater with Defrost for 2016-current models from Inferno Cab Heaters.
infernoheaters.com
Honda Pioneer 1000 MAXX Cab Heater | Inferno Cab Heaters - UTV Heaters, Heater Kits
Stay warmer outside longer with a top-quality Honda Pioneer 1000 Cab Heater with Defrost for 2016-current models from Inferno Cab Heaters.
infernoheaters.com
I use mine for pipeline work, and I do most of my own work and mods, this install is not too difficult at all, heater sits under the driver seat. I have a plan to change my heater ducts for the windshield, I am looking at fabricating a pvc duct to go across the lower windshield. Tees for the inlet and the outlets. I have vents already in the seat sidewall, right behind your legs. Still in the planning stage, but I think I can make it work very well, just to share an idea. Anyways, as far as sealing your cab, you can get thick rubber sheeting and make seals to overlap gaps, or even use some spray foam to seal gaps that do not flex (be careful as the foam expands lols, but you can trim it back, use tape to build a wall and spray foam in the gap. You have huge gaps under the hood, in the inner front wheel wells. Super ATV makes a part to help seal it from mud, which you can then seal from wind also:
Honda Pioneer 1000 Inner Fender Guards
Install Honda Pioneer 1000 Inner Fender Guards to reinforce your wheel wells. They keep rocks and branches from penetrating your cab
www.superatv.com
Also, there is a mod where people use a boat bilge pump to blow out excessive heat from the motor and transmission under the seat out the bottom or back of your buggy. Some people have plumbed that up to also be able to blow that hot air into the cab during the cold season. Hope some of this helps you out.
I've have mine set up like this for the windshield since buying it [used] This keeps the windshield clear untill you drive through water and it steams up for a short while. This only happens in the fall when the water hasn't turned to ice . In the winter it very seldom steams up . The placement of the vents is important so that when you drill through your not drilling into something important . More so on the speedometer side you don't want to drill into that . By the glove box you want to keep the hole in the raised portion of the dash as well. I used 1 1/2" pvc to go through the dash left enough sticking under neat and on top to be able to put a a 90 on top and the hose on the umderside. I used a short piece of the pipe joiner on the bottom [that is glued on] and on top the short piece of the joiner is screwed on with a rubber inner tube as a gasket between the dash and joiner. Clamped the hose on the backside and the elbow just sits on the top. Driverside is a long elbow passenger side is normal elbow. This works for me so juts throwing this idea your way.Honda Pioneer 1000 MAXX Cab Heater | Inferno Cab Heaters - UTV Heaters, Heater Kits
Stay warmer outside longer with a top-quality Honda Pioneer 1000 Cab Heater with Defrost for 2016-current models from Inferno Cab Heaters.
I use mine for pipeline work, and I do most of my own work and mods, this install is not too difficult at all, heater sits under the driver seat. I have a plan to change my heater ducts for the windshield, I am looking at fabricating a pvc duct to go across the lower windshield. Tees for the inlet and the outlets. I have vents already in the seat sidewall, right behind your legs. Still in the planning stage, but I think I can make it work very well, just to share an idea.
I like that! I am thinking more along the lines of a 1-1/2” or 2” pvc pipe for a “header” of sorts. Caps on the ends, and tees spaced out. One for each end and 1 or 2 in the middle for heater vents/defrost. And one tee facing down for the hose connection. I’m thinking that I can get or make a couple brackets to attach to the ROPS that will be low profile and clear the windshield, or possibly get longer grade 8 bolts for the ROPS bolted connection to add a bracket and come up and out, to attach the pvc header to. Amazon and Summit both have several options for flexible heater hose ducts and vents, so it’s just a matter of choosing the size that will fit best into the pvc pipe or tees and that will determine which size pvc to go with, but I’m thinking it can be 2” with a size change down to 1-1/2” for the hose connection. Anyways, I’m glad to see this. As I get some things worked out, and actually build it, I will post a new thread about it. I really need to go through and document everything I’ve done, it’s a lot, that people might like to see how to do, or for ideas. Thanks for sharing yours, it helped me out!!
I have a 2016 P3 with an OEM heater. My system doesn't have blend doors just got a three-position fan switch, high ,low, off.. I have foam stuffed everywhere I could find an air leak. Dash, rear of the roof, and installed foam around the half door. I put insulated floor mats in and cut so the doors sealed the bottom door gap. At -20C I can have it +10C if cruising trails and not going to fast. At that outside temp, I always wear or have the appropriate outer clothing with me in case I got in trouble in the bush. It makes it comfortable in the cab. No hat or gloves are required while traveling but the heater will not cook ya out of the cab that is for sure.
Have had the same problem with water in the ducts. I rased the heater assembly 3” from the original mounting area. Just enough that it doesnt contact the seat. I also found the lowest point of the 2 ducts going to the dash. I cut the hoses in half at that location and installed Pvc pipe and used tied straps to hold in place. If I happen to get water in the hoses, remove tie strap and drain. Doesnt happen very often because I dont like going in the water. But have no other option some times.🤣
Mine is sealed up pretty good .Driving on the road it cools off inside but still don't need gloves on. Riding on trails it's toasty inside. I have the hard cab with hard doors .
Was out moose hunting in November with it. Snow on the ground temp was -5c to -10c. Slowly cruising the bush trails the temp inside got up to 25c in the cab and had to turn the blower down. Very dependent on outside temperature and travelling speed. Wouldnt be without it though.
I do feel it has caused me some problems in high heat days(27C to 30C) type of thing when travelling slow in hilly terrain. (As the heater core is beside the ECM) I was getting random codes and Trans locking into 1st gear. Sit for a few minutes, disconnect and reconnect the battery. Was good to go again for a while.. Once I got onto open country and could get my speed up I had no problems. I checked out the codes and found no cause for them to set. I contributed it to high heat at the ECM and setting false codes. I installed a bilge fan under the seat and set it up so it would pull air across the Ecm and removed some of the insulation I had on the left side of the seat so air could flow in. Didnt have a problem the next time I was travelling the area in similar temperatures. I have found a valve that I haven't installed yet but it will allow me to switch the coolant flow so it doesn't go through the heater core. Will see what happens then. Sorry for the rant 😁.
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Just letting you know that seeing yours is a 2016 [mine is to] I'am sure you have over 5000 Klms on it. I was riding in the winter with tracks on and mine wouldn't shift down then died. Once they cool off away it went. Untill it warmed up again. No codes . It gave all sorts of weird problems when it would warm up. This is something all of us should be doing is removing the shift / control motor and cleaning it up. Over time the armature get carboned up and when hot fails .When it cools down it works. It creates all sorts of problems when it fails. It's simple enough to do you have to realize when the armature gets dirty the cpu is only sending 5V to the motor and it fails to work properly which make the cpu shut down the machine plus other things. Theres many posts on here and problems created by the dirty shift motor/control motor . My suggestion to you is clean up your's ..
Thanks. I will do that because it sounds like a good thing to do. I haven't had a problem with mine for 2 years since I got more airflow under the seat. Strange that it wouldn't set a code if the ECM saw a reduced current flow to the shift motor? Stranger things happen. Thanks again.
I live in Fort Mac Alberta. -30 is quite normal for winter without the windchill. I take my machine out in -20 all the time and I only wear a long sleeve shirt, hoodie and insulated pants. Your heater will not work while the machine is moving if you dont do the following. I added some pictures of some things I’ve done but I don’t have pictures of all the work. It’s toasty warm. The wife even comes.
1) Remove dash and insulated it
2) Seal door gaps with weatherstrip
3) Insulate the duct work that goes under the machine to the front and floor vents
4) Seal gaps on roof and hood where it meets the windshield
5) I also insulated the heater core compartment walls (not the heater core itself, don’t do that lol)
1) Remove dash and insulated it
2) Seal door gaps with weatherstrip
3) Insulate the duct work that goes under the machine to the front and floor vents
4) Seal gaps on roof and hood where it meets the windshield
5) I also insulated the heater core compartment walls (not the heater core itself, don’t do that lol)
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Vikes79
SKOL!
Lifetime Member
Nice on the dash, and the seals on the doors. I have the same on my doors and it’s proven to be very durable after 4 seasons now. Also helps with the rattling doors on the oem bushings for some time. They still need to be pulled eventually.
I bet that far north you likely have about 50% of the front radiator blocked as well.
What you’ve done on the dash gives me some inspiration to essentially make an internal cold front for my pioneer instead of stuffing towels under the hood around the steering column.
I hear you. The steering column and shifter area was the worst for air coming in. I have my column set to what what I like and I have jammed this type of closed cell soft insulation foam we use to insulate coach bus walls and front ends. Worked pretty good. I also leave the machine in 4H and cut the same insulation in the shape of the shifter and it plugs it up.
I never thought of blocking the radiator. I was mostly concerned with blocking air entry and exit. Might just have to do that this year to see how big of a difference it makes. Thanks.
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I looked on the map and cannot find Fort Mac Alberta anywhere. The 2022 p1000 has a steering column seal that works well in sealing off the airflow in that area. Part #68105-HL4-AKO. It works well.
HBarlow
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Fort Macleod, Alberta, Canada. A nice small town along Canada Hwy 2, west of Lethbridge as I remember. I've been through Fort Macleod many times. It's on the route north from Great Falls, MT to western Canada.
Between February 2005 and October 2007 I pulled trailers (RV Transporter). I worked mostly for Horizon Transport in Wakarusa, IN. The US and Canadian economies were booming (that was prior to nobama) then and thousands of travel trailers were built and pulled to dealers all over the US and Canada. I preferred the long hauls and had clean driving and police records so i pulled a lot of Keystone trailers built at Goshen from Horizon's yard at Wakarusa, IN to BC, AB, SK, Manitoba, and ON. I pulled a Keystone to Peace River, AB one time. It was a good paycheck but I had to deadhead 2200 mils back to Pendleton, OR to pick up my next load.
Canada would not admit US drivers with a DWI or felony conviction so a lot of the drivers couldn't go to Canada. I could and enjoyed it.
Between February 2005 and October 2007 I pulled trailers (RV Transporter). I worked mostly for Horizon Transport in Wakarusa, IN. The US and Canadian economies were booming (that was prior to nobama) then and thousands of travel trailers were built and pulled to dealers all over the US and Canada. I preferred the long hauls and had clean driving and police records so i pulled a lot of Keystone trailers built at Goshen from Horizon's yard at Wakarusa, IN to BC, AB, SK, Manitoba, and ON. I pulled a Keystone to Peace River, AB one time. It was a good paycheck but I had to deadhead 2200 mils back to Pendleton, OR to pick up my next load.
Canada would not admit US drivers with a DWI or felony conviction so a lot of the drivers couldn't go to Canada. I could and enjoyed it.
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Rayger143
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
When people say Fort Mac they are referring to Fort McMurray Alberta.
Vikes79
SKOL!
Lifetime Member
Guarantee that blocking the front radiator will have huge benefits.
It’s quite simple when you think about it, when you add a heater, you’re essentially increasing the heat removal capacity of the entire system by a significant amount. You’ll need to do something to the front radiator to retain heat in the entire system and keep the system at peak efficiency. Definitely important for limiting sludge buildup in your oil due to condensation. In the summer you can use the heater as additional cooling capacity as needed.
HBarlow
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Okay. Never heard of it.
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