P1000 PSI For Road Use

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BrotherNov

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Around my hunting lease, which my Pioneer rarely strays from, I run 12-14 PSI. I'm going on a very long trip tomorrow though which will be 100% pavement. Is it appropriate/recommended to increase the PSI for pavement use? Tusk Terrabites if it makes any difference. Thanks
 
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I would think 14 psi would be fine. At last year's TO I ran 14 which was higher than normal, to avoid pinch flats. I have 28" BHII's though. Someone with Terrabites would be better versed in what you need.
 
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Generally speaking, you should refer to the owner's manual for the vehicle itself (SXS, car, truck, whatever).

My owner's manual (2021), page 206:

1686337419519
 
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Scoop

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I would think 14 psi would be fine. At last year's TO I ran 14 which was higher than normal, to avoid pinch flats. I have 28" BHII's though. Someone with Terrabites would be better versed in what you need.
I was running ~15 psi when we came down last month (Coke Oven Cabins/Tackett Creek).

This time around (TO), I went down to 11-12 psi and it was a lot better.

I do have Terrabyte Aramid 10-plies on bead locks and could likely run far lower, but I liked this so far.
 
Scoop

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Sxs's don't come with Terrabites. 🤷‍
It's more about the vehicle that the tire is going ON than the tire itself. The labels inside the door jamb of your car/truck don't change based on the tire you put on it (Goodyear vs Michelin vs Cooper).

But, yea, I hear ya.
 
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trigger

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I just went through this sh!t when I put new tires on the car. Tire vs what's on the door sticker. The tire place set them to the door sticker and I questioned it. Got an oil change and they set them to the tire recommendation. No idea which is actually correct but I went with the tire psi.
 
JenElio

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I just went through this sh!t when I put new tires on the car. Tire vs what's on the door sticker. The tire place set them to the door sticker and I questioned it. Got an oil change and they set them to the tire recommendation. No idea which is actually correct but I went with the tire psi.
On a car/truck, I always follow the tire specs....period. door sticker is for factory tires (size, load ratings, etc.) Unless you're replacing with the exact same tires the vehicle came with, no point in following that sticker. Even if you stay same size, aspect, and ratio, it might/could be a different load rating/speed rating etc....so following the tire recommendations is best IMO. On a UTV......as long as the tire is made to support the needed weight, PSI is a preference kind of thing. All depends on the terrain and riding style. My buddy rides his PooPoo RZR on the road a lot and he'll air up to about 30 psi then when we ride trails he'll go down to about 10 (with beadlocks).......


My 2 burnt cents......
 
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On a car/truck, I always follow the tire specs....period. door sticker is for factory tires (size, load ratings, etc.) Unless you're replacing with the exact same tires the vehicle came with, no point in following that sticker. Even if you stay same size, aspect, and ratio, it might/could be a different load rating/speed rating etc....so following the tire recommendations is best IMO.
Ed Zachary what I thought.
 
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lee

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I'm sorry, what exactly are the tire pressure specs?

The tire placard will be tuned for the vehicle it's attached to (that is, OEM tire + vehicle combo).
A car like a Civic will balance ride comfort and performance.
A pickup (notice how I didn't say Ridgeline) might tune for load carrying - my truck has a crazy high pressure for the rear tires.
Also, an OEM will make sure the tire pressure is not to low fatiging the cords and causing a blow out for any tire in the recomended size range.

If you change the tire size you are on your own, good luck.
 
CID

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I'm sorry, what exactly are the tire pressure specs?

The tire placard will be tuned for the vehicle it's attached to (that is, OEM tire + vehicle combo).
A car like a Civic will balance ride comfort and performance.
A pickup (notice how I didn't say Ridgeline) might tune for load carrying - my truck has a crazy high pressure for the rear tires.
Also, an OEM will make sure the tire pressure is not to low fatiging the cords and causing a blow out for any tire in the recomended size range.

If you change the tire size you are on your own, good luck.
Adding to what Lee said -

1. The pressure molded on the sidewall is max inflation for that tire and has nothing to do with the vehicle the tire is on. The same tire may be OEM on many vehicles of wildly varying weights. I'm running a BFG K02 LT tire on my Talon, the sidewall says 50 lb. max but that's for a ~6000 lb. truck, I'm running 9 F, 10 R and could go lower. (Talon spec is ~16 lb.)
2. The spec plate on the vehicle takes in to account the vehicle's weight and its intended use. Lee's example of crazy high pressures for the rear tires on a PU are for the expected/possible loads. My PU is my daily driver and almost always empty, I run much lower pressures than the spec plate because there's no weight on the rear axle with the bed empty.
3. To the OP's question - for a day ride on pavement, I'd run Honda's spec for the Pioneer as posted in post #3.

A pickup (notice how I didn't say Ridgeline)
ROFL :D
 
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1. The pressure molded on the sidewall is max inflation for that tire and has nothing to do with the vehicle the tire is on.
That's the point I was trying to make. Thanks for providing more detail.

3. To the OP's question - for a day ride on pavement, I'd run Honda's spec for the Pioneer as posted in post #3.
👍
 

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