P1000 Question on front wheel bearing

[Bayouownbeer]

Question for those who have changed front wheel bearing? Check this one out. Bike been sitting two weeks while I was off shore with axles out waiting on a new on for drivers side. Was riding around park and my house with broke axle boot was holding it together. No squeaking or heat. Today I replace the axle actually both in front to rhino. I go test it a hear some squeaking. I go to mail box and back that’s 3000 ft. I’m looking for the squeak well I feel the hub and end of the axle is hot. So now my bearing is seized just from just siting in the shed. My question is does the piece with the wheel studs just slide into the bearing because i can slide mine in and out not easy but it does. The inter part of the bearing will not turn. I’m guessing my wheel flange was spinning in the bearing. Long story short I’m wondering if my flange is bad too. I don’t see any wear on it.

 

[Admin]

 

[BWAF]

Question for those who have changed front wheel bearing? Check this one out. Bike been sitting two weeks while I was off shore with axles out waiting on a new on for drivers side. Was riding around park and my house with broke axle boot was holding it together. No squeaking or heat. Today I replace the axle actually both in front to rhino. I go test it a hear some squeaking. I go to mail box and back that’s 3000 ft. I’m looking for the squeak well I feel the hub and end of the axle is hot. So now my bearing is seized just from just siting in the shed. My question is does the piece with the wheel studs just slide into the bearing because i can slide mine in and out not easy but it does. The inter part of the bearing will not turn. I’m guessing my wheel flange was spinning in the bearing. Long story short I’m wondering if my flange is bad too. I don’t see any wear on it.

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@JTW

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[Bayouownbeer]

My bearing. Looks pretty it was dry before I put Wd 40 on it

 

[Smitty335]

My bearing. Looks pretty it was dry before I put Wd 40 on it

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WD is poor lubricate in my opinion, good for washing grime out though, I use a white lithium grease for lubricration or bearing grease.

 

[0860silverado]

WD is poor lubricate in my opinion, good for washing grime out though, I use a white lithium grease for lubricration or bearing grease.

Yeah... WD-40 is for bustin' rust and cleaning fingernails. From the looks of the residual burnt grease/dirt in your bearing, I'd think a bearing replacement is in order. Here's a tip...if you've been riding fast/hard and your wheel bearings are hot, never go into water above axles. Water hits hot bearings and boots, immideately cools air down inside sealed bearings creating a vaccuum that will suck water past bearing seals. "Sealed bearings" are only sealed against grease push-out and dust intrusion...not water immersion.

 

[Cuoutdoors]

Wheel flange looks fine. JTW was having a different problem with his axles getting hot. Switched axles and it was fine. Still a bit of a conundrum he has.

 

[BWAF]

Wheel flange looks fine. JTW was having a different problem with his axles getting hot. Switched axles and it was fine. Still a bit of a conundrum he has.

I just wonder he is using same ones if his got hot cooked all the grease out then bearing went bad ?

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[0860silverado]

I just wonder he is using same ones if his got hot cooked all the grease out then bearing went bad ?

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Could be. Too much of an angle on CV joints will create heat in CV joints (high lift). Too much negative offset on wheel choice will create leverage/heat on wheel bearings (awesome, stable stance). Too tall of a tire diameter will yank the heck out of wheel bearings if excessive side loads are introduced (unstoppable mud/rock crawling + chick magnet). Any combination of these mods is begging for premature component failure. It just depends on how many chicks you want in your ride vs how much money you are willing to spend to go and stay with the big boys.

 

[JTW]

My issue is the stock axle cv’s don’t get hot and the rhinos do.. it’s only the rears though. Fronts are fine. Has something to do with the angle with the HL lift and preload... but doesn’t make sense why the stocks are fine with it and the new ones aren’t.

 

[Tramguage1]

Shouldn't that bearing be a sealed bearing?? I'm with @0860silverado could the damaged axle caused a unusual amount of heat to be transferred to that bearing before you had a chance to replace it?

 

[Bayouownbeer]

I only used the Wd 40 to remove the bearing. It wasn’t axle heat problem the passenger side is fine installed rhino at same time. The bearing was obviously going out and just locked up when I went on text spin with new axles

 

[Mikee]

I only used the Wd 40 to remove the bearing. It wasn’t axle heat problem the passenger side is fine installed rhino at same time. The bearing was obviously going out and just locked up when I went on text spin with new axles

The residual grease in the damaged bearing is black & dirty-this is from water & dirt getting inside them & over time wears the bearing out. They may say the bearing is "sealed" but not from water. Every time the bearing goes under water (if only for a second or two) a drop or two gets into it along with dirt. When this happens it is the beginning of the end. Replace the bearings & move on.

 

[Neohio]

I agree on the bearing, live and learn.
As long as the hub fits snugly on the new bearing, go ahead and install it.
These bearings are readily available at the parts store.
Grab a caliper and spec it out by IDxODxHT.
Fits a nissan pulsar or something ridiculous. Honda diagrams do give the bearing sizes.

 

[fusonkurtis]

Has any body changed there front wheel bearings if so could I get some tips

 

[Neohio]

@fusonkurtis
What issues are you specifically having?
I don't think it is terribly hard to do.
Need a good pair of snap ring pliers, as well as 30mm for the axle nut.
Every other needed tool is shop standards.

I don't think they are pressed in, I could be wrong though.

 

[fusonkurtis]

@fusonkurtis
What issues are you specifically having?
I don't think it is terribly hard to do.
Need a good pair of snap ring pliers, as well as 30mm for the axle nut.
Every other needed tool is shop standards.

I don't think they are pressed in, I could be wrong though.

They was pretty easy thanks though I thought it would have been harder

 

[Neohio]

They was pretty easy thanks though I thought it would have been harder

Pretty nice when things go smooth eh?

 

[Bayouownbeer]

They was pretty easy thanks though I thought it would have been harder

Did you need a press or able to hammer it out ?

 

[Neohio]

The bearing is retained on each side by a snap ring, I doubt you would need a press.
Maybe mock up a slide hammer to remove if it doesn't come out easily.

 

[fusonkurtis]

Did you need a press or able to hammer it out ?

Hammered out pretty easy