P1000 Rear Pinion seal change completed with pics

[slowdryrider]

Need to change the rear pinion seal on my PK1000 -3 Just wondering if anyone has done one on there machine. Is it possible to do this by just unbolting the diff and sliding it back far enough to seperate the drive shaft from the diff and then do the seal change . Or do I have to pull both rear axles out in order to slide the diff back far enough. I'am not close to the machine right now to take a good look at what needs to be done.
TIA

 

[Hondasxs]

We have put a propeller shaft in without removing the axles.
If that little tidbit helps.

But haven't done a seal.

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[HondaTech]

The diff has to come out, im pretty sure the front seal is a double, 1 stacked on top of the other.

 

[hondabob]

I replaced the rear dif seal on my Pioneer 1000 at 19,000 miles. I removed the dif so I could do a good cleanup and it makes it easy to do a good job.

 

[slowdryrider]

I picked up the seal and looking at the seal it should be easy enough to replace it. The seal is quite different it's best described as concave. The outer part [that is inside the housing] sits about 3/4" further away then the center part where sealing area is. Just not sure what it seals against yet. When I got home today I took a look and I'm pretty sure that the diff will move far enough back to remove the propeller shaft and get access to the seal easy enough . Gonna give it a try and see how it goes. I will let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for the replies.

 

[slowdryrider]

Replaced the pinion seal . Wasn't too bad to do .No need to jack up the machine or remove axles or shocks or tires. First I had washed skid plate out etc: Removed [slid [ the pinion boot from the pinion joint .Placed a piece of 2x4 between the skid plate and diff . Removed the 3 bolts holding the diff to the frame , that was interesting , needed a combination of 2 ratchets and a few different lenghts of extensions .Once bolts were removed just slid the diff back as far as it would go .Of course the Pinion joint did come away from the propeller shaft. I then popped the pinion joint out of the diff [it's held in like your axles with that cir clip] Removed the seal by using a screw turned into the seal and pulled it out with vise grips. Then new seal installed and put everything back together greasing up the pinion joints etc.
Took me about 2 1/2 hrs as I work slow from start to finish.

 

[Hondasxs]

Haha..
Using the wood screw removal method is exactly how I have done it in the past. Works great.

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[packer58]

The ole wood screw seal remover trick........nice work..

 

[ODAMO]

Whats surprising is that the rear shaft has no ujoint or other misalignment feature

 

[Marcel]

My advice from experience is to slightly over torque the nuts that attached to the 3 long bolts holding the differential AND put thread lock on them. I torqued them to the specs from the service manual, but shortly after I started hearing a clunk, they had gotten so loose I could make the rear diff move back and forth by just turning the wheels by hand. Now my bolt holes are egged.

 

[ODAMO]

Whats surprising is that the rear shaft has no ujoint or other misalignment feature

OK, So after some learnin I come to realize that the "rear pinion joint" is just that. It uses the second set of splines to remove the fretting action from the smaller pinion shaft splines and also adds a renewable sealing surface. BRILLIANT !
It also is the reason i thought my rear end had too much backlash, some of it is from the splined joint. The only misalignment comes from the fact that the engine is rubber mounted and the diff is not, plus the 270° crank uses all the misalignment the rubber mounts can give it. And it calls for moly grease which helps reduce fretting