JACKAL
Ancient Honda fanboi
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I love it fine in a diesel engine. That meme made me laugh too that's why I posted it.
Sorry I am late to your post, have been in the Mountains! We put ~2200 miles on the T6/P1K this summer so far and continue to be pleased with the T6 performance. Most of my miles are in Wyoming at 8,000 plus foot elevation (lots of temperature variation this summer - upper 30's to 80s). No issues to date.
Vikes79
SKOL!
Lifetime Member
To add to the confusion Ford has come out and said that any CK oils don’t meet their specifications for ANY powerstroke diesel and only ones that meet wss-m2c171-f1 should be used.
Diesel Motor Oils Meeting Ford WSS-M2C171-F1
Currently T6 is on the list.
Interesting that they come out and say CJ oils have better wear properties.
FYI if you have a psd Ford.
4
been using T6 in everything i own including my pk1 never had a problem
I’ve been using T6 in my pk1 sence the second oil change, now have just over 7000 miles on the machine and it’s running better than when it was new. Shifting is soother than my wife’s Honda Civic. Also have not had any problems with this Pioneer.
My boat has twin 8.1s and I feed it T6. I do oil analysis each oil change every year and the company comments how great my numbers are. My first Honda oil change I used Honda oil. I haven't decided how the next oil change will go. I like the Honda oil because of the clutch.
Mobil 1 in the Ford F150. Because I like going 20k miles between oil changes and I've had great results after 250k miles
Mobil 1 in the Ford F150. Because I like going 20k miles between oil changes and I've had great results after 250k miles
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I am part of the "I run T6 in most everything" club.
As long as the bottle you choose says JASO MA on the back, it should be fine in the Pioneer.
Any oil stickler that buys Honda oil because Honda told them to, is ok with me. Companies spend billions of dollars per year combined to figure out how you get people to purchase products from them. Often times it simply comes down to brand loyalty, realizing we are not all engineers, and or clever wording aka trickery.
Manufacturers are allowed to suggest things, but not to require you purchase only their brand of fluids.
Excerpt from an Edmunds.com article:
"
"The OEMs are looking for protection and the customer wants longevity"
Potential warranty problems: The language in some owner's manuals suggests that using an oil other than the one specified by the manufacturer will void the car's warranty. This is not the case, says Thom Smith, Valvoline's vice president of branded lubricant technology.
According to the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act, the onus would be on GM or another automaker to prove that a non-manufacturer oil damaged the engine. If dealers deny the warranty claim without first investigating it, they are in violation of the act, Smith says.
Consumers just need to make sure that any alternate oil they use is comparable in quality to the automaker's specified oil. Many oil manufacturers, including Valvoline, are so confident of their product that they offer their own warranty against engine damage that their products might be alleged to have caused."
What this says basically, is that even if we the idiot consumers are wrong, and we have a warranty claim denied for engine or transmission failure and the cause is determined to be the type of oil we put in the engine - the major oil manufacturers warrant that as long as you are using a comparable oil in your vehicle - they have your back if their product is determined to have caused any catastrophic failures.
With the buying power they all have, your $2,000 claim is hardly a drop in the bucket for them and most likely you will have a new (what ever you broke) if oil is actually to blame, and you used the correct oil viscosity with the correct rating for your climate, usage, and engine.
Now, with that said - as long as the viscosity is listed as being correct for your climate and usage, along with the JASO MA certification for wet clutch operation - the oil is just fine.
T6 5W40 still carries this designation.
The concern with oils like this used to be that they had additives like molybdenum disulfide. Newer additives like molybdenum dithiocarbamate don't negatively effect a clutch the way Molybdenum disulfide does. No major oil companies use Moly disulfide in their formulations anymore, they haven't for a number of years now.
In conclusion, I'm just an enthusiast that likes to read and be informed. I may very well be all wrong. However as long as Shell warrants the use of their T6 5W40 oil as labeled on the package for meeting JASO MA requirements, I will consider it safe to use in my machines that have wet clutch systems.
Stay thirsty my friends.
As long as the bottle you choose says JASO MA on the back, it should be fine in the Pioneer.
Any oil stickler that buys Honda oil because Honda told them to, is ok with me. Companies spend billions of dollars per year combined to figure out how you get people to purchase products from them. Often times it simply comes down to brand loyalty, realizing we are not all engineers, and or clever wording aka trickery.
Manufacturers are allowed to suggest things, but not to require you purchase only their brand of fluids.
Excerpt from an Edmunds.com article:
"
"The OEMs are looking for protection and the customer wants longevity"
Potential warranty problems: The language in some owner's manuals suggests that using an oil other than the one specified by the manufacturer will void the car's warranty. This is not the case, says Thom Smith, Valvoline's vice president of branded lubricant technology.
According to the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act, the onus would be on GM or another automaker to prove that a non-manufacturer oil damaged the engine. If dealers deny the warranty claim without first investigating it, they are in violation of the act, Smith says.
Consumers just need to make sure that any alternate oil they use is comparable in quality to the automaker's specified oil. Many oil manufacturers, including Valvoline, are so confident of their product that they offer their own warranty against engine damage that their products might be alleged to have caused."
What this says basically, is that even if we the idiot consumers are wrong, and we have a warranty claim denied for engine or transmission failure and the cause is determined to be the type of oil we put in the engine - the major oil manufacturers warrant that as long as you are using a comparable oil in your vehicle - they have your back if their product is determined to have caused any catastrophic failures.
With the buying power they all have, your $2,000 claim is hardly a drop in the bucket for them and most likely you will have a new (what ever you broke) if oil is actually to blame, and you used the correct oil viscosity with the correct rating for your climate, usage, and engine.
Now, with that said - as long as the viscosity is listed as being correct for your climate and usage, along with the JASO MA certification for wet clutch operation - the oil is just fine.
T6 5W40 still carries this designation.
The concern with oils like this used to be that they had additives like molybdenum disulfide. Newer additives like molybdenum dithiocarbamate don't negatively effect a clutch the way Molybdenum disulfide does. No major oil companies use Moly disulfide in their formulations anymore, they haven't for a number of years now.
In conclusion, I'm just an enthusiast that likes to read and be informed. I may very well be all wrong. However as long as Shell warrants the use of their T6 5W40 oil as labeled on the package for meeting JASO MA requirements, I will consider it safe to use in my machines that have wet clutch systems.
Stay thirsty my friends.
J
Hello everyone, new guy here.. I recently purchased a P-1K, and I have been lurking around and digging thru the vast amounts of information/ideas on this site (thanks!). I started thinking about getting ready for my first oil change, and I’ve read numerous threads on the subject. I have had great success with Rotella T6 in my vehicle, and I like how accessible it is. I was a bit leery about running it in my new Honda, due to some of the potential issues I found here. I have come to understand that it is the Moly in most synthetic oils that may cause clutch issues, so I did some digging and found some interesting differences between the CJ-4 spec and the newer CK-4 spec T6. Over on the BITOG forums, an analysis of virgin oils was done between the new and old formulas, and it showed that the new CK-4 spec had basically NO Moly in it, vs 71 ppm in the CJ-4 spec (I’ll post a link to the full results). I just thought I’d pass this along, as it at least makes me feel more comfortable about using it.
Shell Rotella T6 5W40 CJ-4/SM vs CK-4
Shell Rotella T6 5W40 CJ-4/SM vs CK-4
A
I’m at 175 hours on my 2016 PK1 and just did a full filter and oil service including new sub trans oil. Having T6 in bulk for my ‘16 6.7 Powerstroke, I went for it and glad I did. Coming from the using the stock Honda dino oil, the difference was immediate within a mile of running it. It completely eliminated the clutch chatter and the engine is also much smoother and quieter. I’ve put about 2 hours on it since and completely different machine now.
I lurked here and researched since my last Honda dino oil change and finally decided to do it and post my results for those thinking about doing the same.
edit: I used Rotella T6 5W40 CK-4
I lurked here and researched since my last Honda dino oil change and finally decided to do it and post my results for those thinking about doing the same.
edit: I used Rotella T6 5W40 CK-4
Z
How is the Pioneer running on T6 after three months? I know others have reported good results, but your response is the most recent. I'm due for an oil change and looking for synthetic. I will likely do the subtrans as well with this oil. Thanks in advance!
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A
Zero complaints. It’s still running smooth and quiet. It just seems like a different (better) machine now. Quieter engine and transmission and smoother shifting with no chatter from the clutch. Really happy with it and, as a result, I’ve started using the T6 in all of my power equipment so I can keep ordering in bulk for simplicity and cost savings. So far, Amazon has had the best price as you can get a 3 gallon pack for 50 bucks shipped.
JenElio
NTC's NoMo Chupacabra Caliente!!....
Lifetime Member
A
JenElio
NTC's NoMo Chupacabra Caliente!!....
Lifetime Member
JenElio
NTC's NoMo Chupacabra Caliente!!....
Lifetime Member
Nice! Yeah I go to RR every now n then. A few of my buddys have property there and we just built some cabins. Maybe run into each other one day
Z
Posting an update. I just did my second oil change, with Rotella T6 5w 40. It definitely changed how it shifts. I did the first oil change at 125ish miles with Honda recommended conventional oil. I went a little longer on the break in. I thought the P1k got smoother after the first oil change, but it's quite a bit smoother after this one and quieter. The Rotella oil change smoothed out the shifting as much from the Honda oil as the first oil change did after break in.
It was a year since my last oil change, but I only had about 600 miles since the last oil change. The Honda oil came out very water like, granted I let the engine heat up before draining. I changed it based on time vs mileage, but I'm glad I did. There was a few metal flakes, but not near as many as the first oil change. I changed both filter, since I was switching to synthetic and because why not. I did the subtransmission at the same time. The oil that came out of it looked brand new. I also switched to Lucas synthetic gear oil in the differentials. The gear oil that came out looked new, but had quite a bit of metal flakes in it.
It was a year since my last oil change, but I only had about 600 miles since the last oil change. The Honda oil came out very water like, granted I let the engine heat up before draining. I changed it based on time vs mileage, but I'm glad I did. There was a few metal flakes, but not near as many as the first oil change. I changed both filter, since I was switching to synthetic and because why not. I did the subtransmission at the same time. The oil that came out of it looked brand new. I also switched to Lucas synthetic gear oil in the differentials. The gear oil that came out looked new, but had quite a bit of metal flakes in it.
B
I just bought a 1000x4 and was planning on running Rotella T6 in it. It meets the JASO MA spec and doesn't contain a lot of the additives that are in oils like Mobil1 that cause clutches to slip. I used it in my Yamaha 400 dirt bike and older dirt bikes that use the engine oil for the engine and transmission/gear box and it worked great. After reading this thread I'm going to use it in my Talon. If I have any clutch issues I will report back. I know Honda oil feels like the 'safe' choice but they don't make it themselves. For all we know it's Rotella T6. I like my Talon but everything Honda sells aftermarket is way overpriced. BTW I have a couple of Honda PWCs...not made anymore and usually run Mobil 1 in them since they don't have a transmission.