P1000 Sedona Rip Saw R/T Load Rating enough

[ToddACimer]

As I've learned. ATV tires are load rated, but not necessarily at their max capacity, some are, while some are rated for expected use giving a lower rating at a lower pressure. This fact I did not know before, which is why I started this thread in the first place. I have an auto/truck background, where tires are always rated at their max capacity at max psi and usually ran at a lower psi to match the lower weight actually on the tire. Factory tires on these are lighter duty than the sedonas but rated at a higher load using more pressure (20psi on mine). Being these are heavier I guessed a lower pressure of 15psi. While I know they are not rated for this much weight at 8psi, I can assume the correct pressure lies in between 8-20psi. I would guess they would live a while at 8 psi and not have problems, but would be flexing more than designed that would eventually lead to a premature failure. Not to mention the uneven wear that could come from what would essentially be underinflation.

I am willing to try dropping the pressure to 12psi, but not 8psi. I am into everything I do for long term. I don't buy anything, especially something that costs so much, to only have it a few years. Unless something major happens, I will still have this sxs 10 years from now, if not 20. I'm not willing to sacrifice longevity to make something work right now.

I stick to 11-13psi on my 30s for similar reasons

 

[Admin]

 

[05Willys]

I'm running 7# in my 27" Ripsaws with beadlocks. No issues at all and traction out the a$$. 1500 miles with a mix of dirt roads, paved roads, mud and snow with little wear. If you like them, buy them. They are as good a tire as any other.

 

[Zigblazer]

Got everything together. Still rubs, did even down to 7psi, so I went back to 12. The cutout section that is available is the wrong place. It looks to be for directory behind the tire. Mine is rubbing on the center of the tire at full turn, both sides but left is worse. A-arms are different, so I guess we'll have to live with it until they come out with ones to fit mine. Actual tire height on these 28x10-14 rip saws measures more than 2" taller than the 27" that came on factory.

 

[Zigblazer]

Ok. I was wrong. I took a wheel off to measure. At rated pressure (8psi for the rip saws, 20 psi for the factory dirt masters) held flat against the wall, not attached or loaded, level from top of tire to the wall I got; 26 3/8 inch tall for the 27x9.0-14 dirt masters, 28 1/4" tall for the 28x10-14 rip saws.

On the vehicle the rip saws don't flex as much at 13psi as the factory tires did at 20psi.

 

[NorthernJoe]

Got everything together. Still rubs, did even down to 7psi, so I went back to 12. The cutout section that is available is the wrong place. It looks to be for directory behind the tire. Mine is rubbing on the center of the tire at full turn, both sides but left is worse. A-arms are different, so I guess we'll have to live with it until they come out with ones to fit mine. Actual tire height on these 28x10-14 rip saws measures more than 2" taller than the 27" that came on factory.

View attachment 353228

I had the same problem when I mounted 27x14x14 whiteouts on my 22 trail. Like mentioned above soften the plastic with a heat gun and use a spacer between your tired the inner fender to make room. There is a little over an inch between the inner and outer fenders. You can pull the pins and remove the inner fender to see how much clearance there really is. Would adding a 1" spacer move the tire out far enough to give you the room you need?

 

[Zigblazer]

There is not an inch of room between my inner and outer. I did heat up the right side and try to bend it. It didn't move hardly at all. Took it off to find it was against the inner. Took the left side off too and found there wasn't much clearance on that portion either. I don't think it would help to space the front wheels out, it might make it worse. I do have 1.25" spacers on the rear and could try one on the front to see what happens.

Took it for a little ride today. You can feel it rub turning left, but only turning at full lock. Turning right you can hear it, but not feel it. Again, at full lock only. So if I'm careful, it might be fine for a while.

 

[NorthernJoe]

There is not an inch of room between my inner and outer. I did heat up the right side and try to bend it. It didn't move hardly at all. Took it off to find it was against the inner. Took the left side off too and found there wasn't much clearance on that portion either. I don't think it would help to space the front wheels out, it might make it worse. I do have 1.25" spacers on the rear and could try one on the front to see what happens.

Took it for a little ride today. You can feel it rub turning left, but only turning at full lock. Turning right you can hear it, but not feel it. Again, at full lock only. So if I'm careful, it might be fine for a while.

You are right there is more space between the inner and outer fenders closer to the outside edge. I did have to do some careful heat massage to the inner fender to give the outer someplace to go. It is a Pain! I wonder why Honda doesn't have forward arms as stock? There is certainly enough space from the top of the tire to the fender but never enough space between the tire and the firewall

 

[Zigblazer]

Amazing how much tire sizes vary. My arctic cat and polaris had the same size tires. But the ones on the arctic cat always looked smaller. I put the take offs from the Honda onto the arctic cat and measured the tires I took off. The 25x8-12 fronts measured 23 5/8" tall, while the rear 25x10-12 measured 24 3/8".