Street Legal Kit for the Talon

[Mountain-Man]

Yes, you have to somewhere in the location of your choosing. I originally put mine in the dash just below the first cubby hole but now chosen to move them to install the radio. I have decided to relocate the instrument panel in front of the steering wheel (like I think it should have been from the factory) and this is my new location for my turn indicators. This mod is not for the faint of heart, there are some delicate electronics in there....

View attachment 169778

But on a side note, that module appears to be pretty waterproof. There is an o-ring where it splits apart (it is not glued together like I thought it would be) and a boot on the wire harness.

Very Interested in your instrument relocation.

 

[Admin]

 

[PaulF]

Very Interested in your instrument relocation.

Check your PM.

 

[Someguy]

My Talon is in for 100 mile service and I won't have it back till next week so no pics available right now.

• I mounted all 3 turn signals up front (I just have the stock bumper) but the wiring is long enough and there is some separation between the LEDs to provide some flexibility on mounting location. There is enough wire where the LED's separate that you could probably mount the LEDs 6 to 8 inches between each one of them if you wanted.
• You can mount the inside indicators just about anywhere you like, there is plenty of wire. I had a kit on my previous SXS and mounted the turn indicators in the dash in between the steering wheel spokes. Driving a SXS you tend not to look there so many times I never saw them flashing and I was a blinker geek for miles. On my R, I decided to mount them in the center for 3 reasons.

1. There is really not a very good place on the dash in the steering wheel area.
2. I glance at the electronic display a lot so a blinking green light would most likely catch my attention there more often.
3. My passenger can see them and alert me too if I leave a blinker on.

Here is a generic pic of a Talon dash pointing out what I did.
View attachment 139536

Can you post a pic of where you put the 3led's on the front for your signals. Don't look a place to put 3/4" dia LED's that would be very visible. Thanks

 

[PaulF]

Can you post a pic of where you put the 3led's on the front for your signals. Don't look a place to put 3/4" dia LED's that would be very visible. Thanks

I do not have the ones installed that came with the kit anymore. I replaced my grill due to some damage and elected put LED switchback strips inside the headlights instead.

The kit comes with a template and intended location is below (sorry for the blurry pic, it is the only one good one I have showing the lights).

Personally, If I were to do it again, I would put 2 in front and one on the side (where the yellow arrows point) per side. It would be better and the harness would allow for that...

 

[Someguy]

Thank you for the pics and advice. Did the lights have good visibility? I am concerned because they are angled upward. I like the idea of putting one on the side. I thought about putting the dash indicator lights in the "Talon" logo/panel above the steering column. Your thoughts on that. The kits are expensive, I like the steering column mount for the switches. Just trying to make a smart choice. Thanks.

 

[PaulF]

Thank you for the pics and advice. Did the lights have good visibility? I am concerned because they are angled upward. I like the idea of putting one on the side. I thought about putting the dash indicator lights in the "Talon" logo/panel above the steering column. Your thoughts on that. The kits are expensive, I like the steering column mount for the switches. Just trying to make a smart choice. Thanks.

The light are OK, they are all really the same in these kits.

Don't put the indicators in the middle like I originally did, you will never notice them if you leave the signal on. I moved mine into the console (see post #20) and then relocated the console to the steering column.

If I had to do it all over, I would not have done a kit with the lever. The lever gets in the way (I am 6' 4" with long legs) and is not very water friendly and not really made for UTV use like this. The contacts in it will corrode over time. I find I don't use it enough to justify the need for the lever and simple dash switches would have been sufficient as often as I use turn signals and the horn.

Another thing about the RYCO kit is the connections. They are not water tight (or even weather resistant) so they will also corrode over time. And they use a few wiretaps and I absolutely HATE wiretaps. They corrode too easily.

The horn connections already corroded and I had to solder them on permanently for the horn to work again.

There is another kit out there (I believe it is XTC) that uses "Weather PacK" type connectors and is truly plug and play (no taps as far as I can tell). They are pretty nice but even more expensive, if you can even find one.

When my lever switch goes out, I will replace it with something different (not a lever).
When the harness plugs start to corrode, I will replace them with GM Weather Pack connectors.
When the wire taps corrode, I will solder/marine heat shrink them.

I should have saved me the trouble and bought a better kit from the start but the dealer gave me a killer deal on it when I bought the machine and at that time, I didn't know any better.

 

[Someguy]

Wow, thanks for the info, and your thoughts, and advice. I mostly trail ride, thought a horn would be nice if you want to pass someone on a trail, and turn signals would be nice because trails include paved roads, and would be nice for vehicles to know if you want to turn. Connection s need to be water proof. Well I got some research to do. I will look into the XTC kit. Thanks again.

 

[PaulF]

Wow, thanks for the info, and your thoughts, and advice. I mostly trail ride, thought a horn would be nice if you want to pass someone on a trail, and turn signals would be nice because trails include paved roads, and would be nice for vehicles to know if you want to turn. Connection s need to be water proof. Well I got some research to do. I will look into the XTC kit. Thanks again.

Forgot to mention that the RYCO kit does do 2 things that I do not think the others do (at least they don't advertise it).

1. The kit makes the brake lights Rapid Flash for the first second. Really catches attention of the person behind you. I LOVE this feature.
2. The kit allows the front turn lights to come on at 1/2 brightness all the time to act like Daytime Running Lights without the need to turn on the lights. Then they flash brighter when you turn on the signal. I also like this option, I used it to wire up the switchback strips in my headlights. Switchbacks are white when on and switch to amber when flashing (like all the newer cars).

Either (or both) options can be turned off if you don't like them.

 

[Someguy]

Now I got more to think about. HaHa. I got to figure out something for the switches, make a panel or something. I don't like cutting holes into the dash, or console on a $19k machine.

 

[CID]

I just installed the Ryco system and am very happy with it (but I didn't know about the potential moisture issues. I'm a desert rat at heart but never turned back because of a little rain on the bike).

This is where I put the dash turn indicators and VM, copying @Lil_Steve . Both are lit because the Ryco has emergency flashers. They're very bright, I think they'd be hard to forget although they're self cancelling. The green LED grommets fit the LED elements loosely so under drill them so they'll pinch down on the LED elements.

Look closely at the photo below, it shows the LED elements are vertical, I would have picked horizontal and I thought I did. The lenses have several white bars and I set them horizontally but they aren't the element. Look at them closely (in person, not here and lit) and you can see the single LED element is at right angles to the white bars. If you want 'em horizontal, position the bars vertically.

I used a Harbor Freight step drill bit to drill the holes in the front facia, the 3/4" size is a perfect fit for the grommets + LEDs (very tight but secure forever). Note that it's a very tight fit though - the directions recommend warmth and lube. I heated the area with a drop light and used wheel bearing grease for lube. That may be a long term mistake, the grease could kill the rubber grommets. Doing it again, I'd use liquid soap or something less toxic to rubber/plastic.

Running lights (optional, you can opt out, which may be better - as is, you have to watch to see them switch from low to high - OFF-ON-OFF-ON is more attention getting but then you lose the daylight running lights).

Turn signal lit

Side LED location. You can see the horizontal bars here but they aren't the element, it's vertical.

ETA: The Ryco template for drilling the front facia puts the 3 LEDs together, facing forward. Steve recommended putting one LED facing to the side and I did that for two reasons 1. the obvious side visibility 2. The center position is somewhat obstructed from behind and I wanted to avoid that. I tried to remove the plastic panel on the back to see what's back there but there's a hidden phillips screw that's inaccessible with the radiator in place - so NOPE. I also moved the outer LED (of Ryco's template) 3/8" further out than the template is marked for better back side clearance.

Photo of above - the left/outside element is 3/8" further to the left than where the template suggests. If you decide to put all 3 LEDs facing forward, this might not work because I don't know if you can move the center LED without back side interference (to center it between the left and right LEDs).

The signal stalk is pretty crude IMO but I'm sure it's what's available off the shelf. It doesn't interfere with my knee but I'm not tall either.

I have the Honda bumper, necessary for the Warn winch so that's what you're seeing in the 2nd, 3rd and 5th photo.

 

[Someguy]

Thanks for your advice, tips and pics. I take it the vertical orintation helps with visibility. I see you put the dash light in the talon logo, so someone else thought of it. COOL. I am going to check into what I can find for wire taps that are more water proof. There are always new products. I can always solder, and heat shrink connections, just more work. I like easy.

 

[CID]

Thanks for your advice, tips and pics. I take it the vertical orintation helps with visibility. I see you put the dash light in the talon logo, so someone else thought of it. COOL. I am going to check into what I can find for wire taps that are more water proof. There are always new products. I can always solder, and heat shrink connections, just more work. I like easy.

fwiw: The current Ryco system (bought 2 weeks ago) is completely plug-n-play, there isn't any splicing or need for heat shrink, it uses factory type plugs/connectors - you unplug the factory connection and plug in the Ryco harness. The only thing that may be missing from them is integrated waterproofing rubber grommets. Since I didn't realize there might be a moisture issue, I didn't pay enough attention to be able to address that point now.

 

[PaulF]

fwiw: The current Ryco system (bought 2 weeks ago) is completely plug-n-play, there isn't any splicing or need for heat shrink, it uses factory type plugs/connectors - you unplug the factory connection and plug in the Ryco harness. The only thing that may be missing from them is integrated waterproofing rubber grommets. Since I didn't realize there might be a moisture issue, I didn't pay enough attention to be able to address that point now.

So they did away with the wiretap at the brake light switch and the cut and splice at the tail light connector under the air filter cover???

Now I feel so cheated!!!

 

[PaulF]

So they did away with the wiretap at the brake light switch and the cut and splice at the tail light connector under the air filter cover???

Now I feel so cheated!!!

YUP, just looked at the instructions. The newer kits are now completely Plug and Play.

I am feeling a bit DOWN this morning

 

[CID]

YUP, just looked at the instructions. The newer kits are now completely Plug and Play.

I am feeling a bit DOWN this morning

You poor thang hoping your day picks up from here.

 

[Someguy]

You poor thang hoping your day picks up from here.

CID where did you get yours? Want to make sure I get the plug and play one? Thx

 

[CID]

@Someguy I ordered it through my dealer to keep the money local. He had to become a dealer for someone to get them, maybe Ryco themselves. He hadn't heard about Ryco until I wanted mine - he jumped through hoops for me.

Eddie at Fay Myers parts in Denver. 303 744-6632

 

[Someguy]

@Someguy I ordered it through my dealer to keep the money local. He had to become a dealer for someone to get them, maybe Ryco themselves. He hadn't heard about Ryco until I wanted mine - he jumped through hoops for me.

Eddie at Fay Myers parts in Denver. 303 744-6632

Thank you Sir "YOUR THE MAN" was looking last night couldnt find any definet specifics on connections. I will give Eddie a call.

 

[TurnPro]

I'm soliciting opinions on the best street legal kit for the Talon. Is there a good kit available that includes a stalk-type turn signal switch that would mount to the steering column, rather than the usual two-position slider switch?

What have you used?

Steve

I know this is an old thread, But we wanted it to known that we now offer a Completely Plug & Play Talon + Pioneer Signal Systems starting at $204.99 Pioneer & $209.99 Talon. Various Options available such as Smoked LED’s, Indicating Rocker & Hazard Options. Visit our website directly @ www.turnprosignals.com Also available at the hondasxs.com shop.
Thanks, Grant

 

[Montecresto]

I know this is an old thread, But we wanted it to known that we now offer a Completely Plug & Play Talon + Pioneer Signal Systems starting at $204.99 Pioneer & $209.99 Talon. Various Options available such as Smoked LED’s, Indicating Rocker & Hazard Options. Visit our website directly @ www.turnprosignals.com Also available at the hondasxs.com shop.
Thanks, Grant

Will this work on the Talon X4 as well?