Super ATV front driveshaft

[Hello_Darkness]

I would also suggest buying a new clip for the install. The best way I’ve found to do it is to cut one side of the ear clip off and then pull it through the opposite way. Not only does it come out easy but it also helps clean out the groove for reinstalling the new one.

The only issue with cutting the ear off is it the other one comes off as well your in a pickle. This is a last resort for us.

Clean the groove with lube and brake clean first andmake sure the clip is moving.

Take the front 2 bolts out of the diff, tale the nut off the bottom rear but leave the bolt in.

While opening the clip, pry backward on the front u joint to pull th driveshaft out of the diff. It doesn't need to come all the way out, just enough to clear the clip groove.

Then take the remaining diff bolt out and push it forward. Works like a charm

 

[Admin]

 

[AMink]

One other thing about cutting the clip. Make sure you have a new one. When I did mine and destroyed the clip finding a new one was not easy. No one had them. I finally found one in Utah and had it shipped. Hopefully that's changed by now.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

My post from CID's Talon Owners thread:

Here is another driveshaft tip... unplug the sensors on the side of the 4wd clutch, remove the three bolts holding the clutch on, remove front diff bolts, slide diff forward and the driveshaft backwards and separate the clutch from the diff. Fish the assembly out from under the hood and deal with the clip on the bench instead of on the car. Reverse to install.

That's how I did it any time I had to remove the driveshaft for maintenance and it was easy peasy to do by myself.

*drain the front diff first.

 

[Hometeam]

The only issue with cutting the ear off is it the other one comes off as well your in a pickle. This is a last resort for us.

Clean the groove with lube and brake clean first andmake sure the clip is moving.

Take the front 2 bolts out of the diff, tale the nut off the bottom rear but leave the bolt in.

While opening the clip, pry backward on the front u joint to pull th driveshaft out of the diff. It doesn't need to come all the way out, just enough to clear the clip groove.

Then take the remaining diff bolt out and push it forward. Works like a charm

That is good advice!! I would definitely trust your judgement on it over mine!! Thanks for clarifying.

 

[adudes]

@SuperATV will they come out with a driveshaft for the 4 seaters?

 

[PhilCod]

Same as above have said. I have about 1,500 miles on my SATV driveshaft. So nice an quiet! I did keep the stock on as a spare. I may replace the u-joints and yoke just to have a back up.

 

[SuperATV]

@SuperATV Dude, some upper level mgmt needs to be slapped. Git onnit -

We should be in stock! Looks like I have a few. Not a ton, but the next batch should be done and here soon.

 

[SuperATV]

@SuperATV will they come out with a driveshaft for the 4 seaters?

Yes! I don't have an ETA yet, but they are definitely on my list.

 

[Brett002]

So for the guys that have replaced their driveshaft with the aftermarket, what signs did the machine show that the new part was needed?

I have a 19' Talon R and have a slight roaring noise when "not" under load. I got 7 thousand miles out of the factory one so I guess I can't complain, but what good is a forum if you can't complain a little? Is there anything I can do to check and see if I need a new one?

 

[906UP]

So for the guys that have replaced their driveshaft with the aftermarket, what signs did the machine show that the new part was needed?

I have a 19' Talon R and have a slight roaring noise when "not" under load. I got 7 thousand miles out of the factory one so I guess I can't complain, but what good is a forum if you can't complain a little? Is there anything I can do to check and see if I need a new one?

On mine there was play in the U-joint itself, both front & rear. The noise/vibration in the driveline is what led me to check it.

 

[CID]

So for the guys that have replaced their driveshaft with the aftermarket, what signs did the machine show that the new part was needed?

I have a 19' Talon R and have a slight roaring noise when "not" under load. I got 7 thousand miles out of the factory one so I guess I can't complain, but what good is a forum if you can't complain a little? Is there anything I can do to check and see if I need a new one?

HondaBob puts a witness line across the u-joint cap/yoke. If the cap spins, you'll know it (and why many guys spot weld the caps to the yoke). If you choose to weld the caps, be sure to move your ground clamp so you aren't running current through the u-joint rollers.